Suspension rebuild. Need advice on parts to replace.

[Artago]

Updated: 02-15-2013

I've got a Jacks Ultimate 2.1 in a box ready to be dropped in soon and I'd like to rebuild my entire front suspension while I'm at it.

Mainly I want to replace all the bushings to tighten up the car because it's very sloppy. Instead of doing all the control arm bushings one by one I'm going to be replacing the entire arms. I don't have a press or the time to replace them all. Here is my list so far...

To be replaced:

Upper arm
Compression arm
Stabilizer link
RM Stabilizer (sway) bar
Avid motor mounts (already ordered, in the mail)
Tie Rod ends

Misc
PS boots
Axles
Various cotter pins

Already replaced:

Lateral lower arm (replaced by dealer under recall)
Shocks (Tokico HP blues)

Considering replacement: (your input)

Cross member bushings (which ones and where to buy? solid (by black_gst) or poly or oem for DD?)
Center member bushings
Steering assembly (steering feels sloppy)
OEM Gear shift cables Link
Left hub (right was replaced a year ago)
OEM Drive shaft repair Yoke Link

So my main question is, have I missed anything? What else should I be replacing while the motor & tranny are out? What about the little stuff?

Update 02-15-2013:

Here's what I got on my list so far.

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How does that look?

 

[eclipse420ags]

The steering assembly feels sloppy because your suspension is sloppy.

 

[2slow4now]

Inner and outer tie rod ends would be on my list along with any of the boots on the tie rods and axles unless they look good. More "little stuff" are the cotter pins on the tie rods and axles. I went with stainless steel cotter pins just for the added corrosion/rust prevention because the ones that normally come with those parts rust pretty quick. Axle nuts and washers are pretty cheap too and some recommend replacement anyways.

Hubs might be on your list depending on condition. About bushings I think if you put anything in rather than old cracked and worn you will be happy. I have some rollstops from Blackgst and like them.

 

[Artago]

The steering assembly feels sloppy because your suspension is sloppy.

Most likely.

Inner and outer tie rod ends would be on my list along with any of the boots on the tie rods and axles unless they look good. More "little stuff" are the cotter pins on the tie rods and axles. I went with stainless steel cotter pins just for the added corrosion/rust prevention because the ones that normally come with those parts rust pretty quick. Axle nuts and washers are pretty cheap too and some recommend replacement anyways.

Hubs might be on your list depending on condition. About bushings I think if you put anything in rather than old cracked and worn you will be happy. I have some rollstops from Blackgst and like them.

Added tie rod ends to the list along with cotter pins, 1 hub, CV boots, PS boots. I've already ordered a full set of AVID mounts.

Anything else?

 

[Artago]

Updated. See screenshot on original post.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Hey Artago!

Your list is coming along nicely. Have you checked your inner tie rods for play? Just something to consider while doing everything else down there. The moog parts are quite nice.

I wonder how easily one can rebuild their power steering pump?

 

[jtmcinder]

Do you have any rules constraints (e.g., SCCA or Canadian AutoSlalom) with which you need to conform?

Are you willing to deal with increased NVH on the street and the need to inspect and/or replace bits on a regular basis in order to get the most from the car?

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Sphericals would be nice.

 

[Artago]

Hey Artago!

Your list is coming along nicely. Have you checked your inner tie rods for play? Just something to consider while doing everything else down there. The moog parts are quite nice.

I wonder how easily one can rebuild their power steering pump?

Hey. Both inner and outer tie rods are on my list. Will that be sufficient?

Do you have any rules constraints (e.g., SCCA or Canadian AutoSlalom) with which you need to conform?

Are you willing to deal with increased NVH on the street and the need to inspect and/or replace bits on a regular basis in order to get the most from the car?

No rules I need to conform to. This is purely a daily driver that may see the track from time to time. So I'd like to keep the NVH down but I would also like to tighten up the suspension a bit. Nothing crazy. Just sway bars, strut bars, stiffer motor mounts, and considering solid subframe bushings. Thoughts?

Sphericals would be nice.

What are those?

Anyone know where I can get a new wiring harness? I may as well do that while I'm at it. Right?

Tom

 

[jtmcinder]

OK, then, sphericals are out. (CB knew exactly what I was asking, it seems.) Without rules to worry about, I'd do the redrilled upper front arms trick for a tad more camber without losing any travel to silly upper ball-joints. Then swap in urethane where-ever and when-ever you can and call it a day.

 

[Artago]

Update:

I placed my order with the following items:

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I'll be ordering a sway bay and t-case/shaft yoke kit from ExtremePSI next.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

OK, then, sphericals are out. (CB knew exactly what I was asking, it seems.) Without rules to worry about, I'd do the redrilled upper front arms trick for a tad more camber without losing any travel to silly upper ball-joints. Then swap in urethane where-ever and when-ever you can and call it a day.

I like to think that I pay attention. Mostly.

Update:

I placed my order with the following items:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I'll be ordering a sway bay and t-case/shaft yoke kit from ExtremePSI next.

Sorry Artago, I must have missed the inner tie rods in your first list... but if it matters I still can't find them in the second list. If there is no play or abnormal wear on the parts there's no real reason to replace them anyways.

Another idea, based on Jtoby's suggestion, would be to install the new upper arms as they are, but modify and clean up the old one's with poly bushings and the camber mod. Then, when you're satisfied with the work/paint/whatever, you can install them at your leisure rather than have more down time. You could also end up with spares or a nice piece to trade, too.

EDIT: I see now. The inner and outer tie rods ends are designated as "ends" without describing which "end" it is.

 

[ricktb]

not sure if you need a camber kit... yeah inner tie rods, did you end up replacing the strut rubber mount pads, up at the top, and the little one above under the washer in the cup...those get worn out, and the bump stops and dust covers... you can get these from mitsubishi. I did this to my car all four corners, and lemme tell you how tight the suspension and steering is! No squeeks and takes pot holes speed bumps like a champ. I did the tokico illuminas with springs and 2" drop I may need a camber kit now.

In the end I replaced 18 ball joints and i dunno how many bushings.. theres a lot that can get loose over time. Don't forget the alignment at the end.

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Not shown here, tie rods, rear sway bar links, rear right toe arm and lateral arm and front upper control arms

 

[born2tune]

Worst poll options I have ever seen.

I would suggest going with prothane bushing kit or energy suspension kit as far as bringing back your suspension from the dead.

 

[jtmcinder]

In the end I replaced 18 ball joints....

By my count, you must have replaced some ball-joints more than once, then.

 

[ricktb]

By my count, you must have replaced some ball-joints more than once, then.

2 - front lower lateral arms
2 - front compression arms
2 - upper control arms
2 - outer tie rods
4 - front sway bar links
4 - rear sway bar links
2 - rear toe

total 18

or do the links not count ### they are ball joint style..?

 

[jtmcinder]

Ah, I get it. You count tie-rods and swaybar-links. No problem. Just yanking.

 

[twicks69]

As a reference, the front lower control arms are actually cheaper directly from Mitsubishi. The front lateral arms are cheaper from Moog.

Also, the Energy Suspension kit sucks for the rear control arms -- kit #ENE 5.3119R -- it uses 1-piece bushings that can be difficult to install for some. Go for the Prothane kit #13301; it uses 2-piece bushings that are considerably easier to install after the metal bushing sleeves and stock bushing are removed.

Also, the tcase yoke kit is MR470072; I always keep those in stock.

 

[JackM]

I would avoid your Cardone CV shafts. They are made out of china parts and have a very high failure rate, which is why they are so cheap.

If you still have the original Mits CV shafts, take them apart, clean them, grease them back up and install new boots. That's the best thing you can do at an economical price for the CV shafts. The auto parts store CV shafts are junk and will be a constant nightmare.

Everything else looks good to me, but just keep in mind that your rear suspension also plays a big roll in how the car feels too.

Jack

 

[2slow4now]

I agree 100% with ....... jack on the shafts. Wait! I mean uh yeah take the OEM one's apart clean up the joints, regrease, and reboot them.

I actually typed that first response and realized how ornery it sounded and followed back up with the ...... to enhance the effect.

I think your list looks pretty good. Have you checked into getting the OEM knuckle kits? You get both front lower arms and a brand new knuckle. It may be cheaper or around the same price as buying aftermarket depending on what you get. There are several threads on the part numbers for the knuckle kits http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/han...olved-oem-knuckle-control-arm-question-3.html

mr3250009 mr3250010

 

[ACM]

For axles go to Raxles, their stuff is top notch. Marty can't do ABS rear axles, but he can do everything else. His stuff is great - Kate's car, my car and my autocross car are all running Marty's axles in one location or another, they're top quality.

ABS rear axles are a huge problem, but everything else is available from Raxles.

As these cars age, we have to be vigilant about the "rubber" bushings - these rot with age, not mileage, so regardless of how few miles your DSM has on it, at this point in its life the rubber bushings are a very real concern. More and more DSMs are suffering collapsed bushings due to age alone, so you really need to check them VERY closely.