Suspension binding? hard to turn?

[mitecl96]

Did a lot of work to my front end. New bearings, c/v axles, new inner tie rods, and all new lower ball joint and arms.

Just got it aligned a couple hours ago. everything is straight and perfect.

I put the new lower control arms and ball joints on yesterday and after that the car was hard to turn and wouldn't straighten up after turning, it would stay turning.

Gateway said something was binding, the guy said I might had over tightened the ball joints and to loosen them up and break them lose and just snug them down. So I went home and did that. Well still didn't fix the problem. Still a pain to turn.

Everything was working fine before I put the new lower control arms on. Straightened up just fine.

I will add that I have no power steering. The rack is about shout and the pump has a bad bearing so I never hooked it back up after my engine rebuild.

Please help my car is a pain to drive.

Thanks'
Kevin

 

[Dsmkauai]

Did you put the control arms on the wrong side maybe. And I've never heard of a ball joint being to tight .

 

[mitecl96]

What you mean wrong side?
The curved lower arms only can go one way, and the main straight arms look the same and there was nothing on them to tell me right or left.

The guy say it can happen and seize the joint but that is a very rare case. But knowing my luck, I just checked.

 

[Dsmkauai]

I know they are supposed to only go on one way, but I've seen some strange things on this site . And for the lateral arms there is a difference in part number so I imagine they need to be put on the proper side that corresponds to the part number.
The difference is where the shock mounts to the control arm it's offset just alittle for each side.
This link should help bro. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/handling-tech/317130-control-arm-id.html

 

[mitecl96]

Well I wonder if the lateral arms are on the wrong side now because I figured out the binding.

The lower arms are coming into contact with each other at the ball joints.

But there is nothing to tell the difference in either lateral arm. How can I tell?

 

[Dsmkauai]

Switch sides and see if it fixes the problem, sounds like it will bro!

 

[mitecl96]

It didn't fix the problem still binded just as bad. I ended up just taking a file to it until I could slip a piece of paper in between them. Fixed everything drives smooth now but feels like I'm going to need another alignment, lame. I'll see if they will cut me a dead.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

mitecl96, I'm all caught up now.
Glad you found the cause. What brand were the arms? That way we can document the issues with those parts.
I'm still happy to talk alignment stuff via PM.

 

[mitecl96]

Yeah Just seen your post so you can ignore the last pm.

They where DLZ I believe, that what the bags said anyways.

At least now I know who to talk to for suspension problems, hopefully no time soon though. Everything is brand new now.

 

[rough]

Dunno if a papers width is good enough clearance, all those parts will flex/bend when rolling down the street, even worst when you hit some rough roads.

I believe those lower control arms can be flipped and installed as well.

I had binding like you had, it was all in the ball joints.

Lot's of shops don't realize the suspension must be loaded upon torquing suspension components!

 

[mitecl96]

I had no trouble with this car's suspension bolting everything up in the air. The problem with the arms I got was they are a little bit fatter then OEM and that's where I am getting binding only when my car is on the ground. My ride height in the suspension is less than an inch left in suspension travel.

What do you mean by flipped?

I have already tried switching sides with the lateral arms with out any luck.

Every other day I take it back apart and see if they are still hitting, so far they have I did this twice now, and file down some more. Once the binding stops and they are no longer toughing each other I am going to go get it aligned one more time, this time for good hopefully.

 

[mitecl96]

He is some pictures of what's going on.

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Here is some rub marks.

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Here is some filing done.

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[rough]

I noticed neither of your control arms "balljoints" have zerg fittings, I had 2 break destroying my left front side, I got a nice piece of information, and that's to get lower control arms that have zerg fittings, that way you can grease them, these balljoints that are lacking zerg fittings have no grease, which is going to make it fail quickly.

I'll be working on my passenger side this weekend, i'll post some pictures of my clearance, as those two joints should not be that close to each other!

 

[mitecl96]

I noticed no grease fittings but they have a hole to add grease. These have fatter ends causing them to be so close and they only bind at ride height but that's 3 inches lower than stock so kinda didn't help but still shouldn't happen.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Wow that's really crap R&D by the part manufacturer. I do a ton of suspension work, and have never seen anything so lame. Believe me, I see a lot of lame Chinese suspension parts, but that takes the cake.

That guy at Gateway is wrong though; you need the nuts on those tapered studs to be really tight. Otherwise they're going to start wobbling around in the knuckle and destroy the tapered holes.

Next time go for Moog, TRW (if you can find them), or there's a decent Japanese brand too called Triple Seven. If you can, it's usually better to reuse the original nuts too.

 

[mitecl96]

I fixed the problem just filed it down till I had enough to have clearance. They are solid still buy have something rattling around.

 

[fallenauthority]

I noticed neither of your control arms "balljoints" have zerg fittings, I had 2 break destroying my left front side, I got a nice piece of information, and that's to get lower control arms that have zerg fittings, that way you can grease them, these balljoints that are lacking zerg fittings have no grease, which is going to make it fail quickly.

I'll be working on my passenger side this weekend, i'll post some pictures of my clearance, as those two joints should not be that close to each other!

Zerk fittings.

I noticed no grease fittings but they have a hole to add grease. These have fatter ends causing them to be so close and they only bind at ride height but that's 3 inches lower than stock so kinda didn't help but still shouldn't happen.

If they have a hole they should have a grease fitting. Are you sure there werent fittings in the bags/box they came in? You cannot leave an exposed hole for contamination to get into the ball joint. Thats the whole point of a zerk fitting to seal the joint but allow it to be greased. Take a picture of these "grease holes" I guarantee they are supposed to have zerk fittings installed.

 

[psycho]

Did you torque everything down with the suspension loaded with the weight of the car on it?

 

[mitecl96]

I can't remember if the holes where even threaded but that wasn't the issue. Like I mentioned it was both call joints binding each other. Problem has been solved after filing away to stop contact at my ride height. I will later on buy the new OEM ones these are cheap aftermarket to get me back on the road.

 

[fallenauthority]

I can't remember if the holes where even threaded but that wasn't the issue. Like I mentioned it was both call joints binding each other. Problem has been solved after filing away to stop contact at my ride height. I will later on buy the new OEM ones these are cheap aftermarket to get me back on the road.

I was not saying that not having zerk fittings was the issue. I am saying that you need to install fittings in the holes to prevent water/dirt/debris from entering into the ball joints.

 

[mitecl96]

Oh, sorry if they have threads I will do it. Can't remember exactly how they are even if there is a hole I just remembered something in the middle. I'm a 1000 miles from my car at the moment and nit sure when I'll be back.