stroker vs. boring

[racer009]

It's been a while since i have last posted on here, and going through the posts, no one really has asked this. I am going to build my eclipse gsx up and make it a complete track car. what would be the best thing to do go get the best mid to top end out of it. I've talked to people and they say if you stroke a motor it wont rev up as high. This is coming from someone who deals with n/t engines, does turbo change that. I'm not wanting to do a 100mm stroke seeing that theres a lot more turbo lag with the 2.3l strokers. i was thinking about getting the 94mm crank and just doing a .20 over pistons, or just keeping it at a 88mm stroke and going .60 over on the bore. what would be the best combination, i already have the bc 280 cams and valve springs and full 3 in. exhaust. I'm going to wait on finding out what bottom end I'll go with until i buy the turbo and all the other nessesities. any ideas?

 

[TWOpointFORliter]

You are misinformed about a stroker having more turbo lag. I spool my 16g to 25psi before 3000 rpm's with my 2.4. All I have to do is tap the throttle and it is insta boost in any gear.

Two questions I have for you that would help in answering your question.

1. By track car do you mean drag, autoX or road coarse?

2. What turbo are you planning on running?

 

[CrawlinZX14]

I agree with the above post, what is your track of choice. That will help determine your build process. If its a drag car, its a completely different setup than AutoX or road racing.

For a drag application I would half fill the block, bore it and stroke it. Get some real punch out of it. But thats me.

 

[racer009]

You are misinformed about a stroker having more turbo lag. I spool my 16g to 25psi before 3000 rpm's with my 2.4. All I have to do is tap the throttle and it is insta boost in any gear.

Two questions I have for you that would help in answering your question.

1. By track car do you mean drag, autoX or road coarse?

2. What turbo are you planning on running?

I am going to do road courses, and I wasn't positive about the turbo yet maybe a 50 or 60 trim

 

[MichaelSuch]

.60 overbore is a little much. You won't see any gains from .030 to .060. I would just go .030, more options for pistons and the cylinders should be perfectly round after a .030 overbore. I run a 2.3L stroker as well and it decreases turbo lag. The factory 14b spool instantly but had no top end, the 14b choked it quite a bit. But you are right, you won't be able to rev as high as a built 2.0. I run my stroker to the factory 7,000 RPM rev limit. 2.0's can rev to 9,000+rpms if built properly. I love my stroker motor, it does make more torque and will be a little harder on drive train parts, but so is revving to 9k.

 

[TWOpointFORliter]

For a road coarse I would definatly go with a stroker for the added torque. I gained 60tq to the wheels just by switching from a 2.0 to a 2.4 and changing nothing else. that should help you pull out of the corners really well. Also if you want a fast spooling turbo that can put down some serious numbers look into a holset. I personally am building my car for road racing and decided to go with the properly setup twin scroll 7blade hx35 on my 2.4. I am hoping to see 30 psi right at 3000 rpm's and 500tq.

 

[racer009]

so with that, what would be the better crank to go with a 94mm or 100mm? I am more wondering what would be best for mid range, being road courses, thats where I will spend most time in corners

 

[TWOpointFORliter]

Go with the 100mm crank. If you can find a 4g64 block build that instead of your 4g63 you have now. You will save on machine work and have an extra .1 liters of displacement for that mid range power you are looking for.

Edit just noticed you have a 1g. You will need to find a 4gcs block if you want a 2.4.

 

[rvaughn]

In order to 'stroke' your motor you have to use a larger crank. The 100mm crank is the common one here, although the 2.2 liter displacement does sound fun. Magnus has some good / light reading info on strokers on this page, here:

http://magnusmotorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/DetailedEngineList.pdf

Its not full of details but gives you an overview. Id suggest reading more on the site in the stroker section before continuing with any purchasing. I think you may have a bit to learn before making this decision, although where is the fun in that right?

 

[92mitsubishi]

100 mm crank set up will give you extra displacment but with being in corners most of the time i think a 94 mm would fine ive read on other forums that the 94 is more reliable. dont know how true that is. but i did road races with a 94 mm. (DSM wiseguy step in anytime)..... but its up to what you want out of your car.

 

[arrowhead]

You should only bore as a last option as you would be limited in the number of rebuilds, there is no need to throw blocks away since you have already reach your limits on your 1st rebuild.

I am also doing a RR build, and will be going with 2.4 crank, I believe is the cheaper solution for me, since my present motor has a spun bearing.

I think you maybe should lower your expectations as far as power, it is hard to apply that much power on a small course, I will start with what I have which is a small 16g and from what I have learned so far it is very close to ideal, my second choice will be a complete 2.4 with maybe a little larger turbo.

Do not worry so much about power, you will have plenty no matter which way you go. put your car on a diet, brakes, eliminate all flex replace all rubber, suspension and get SEAT time, then you will grow with your car

 

[TSi Kid]

The "boring" 2.0 might not have the torque, but I can rev the sh*t out of it, and because of the less torque she's more reliable

 

[SEVERENI]

I will be building a 2.3L stroker with a HX40 turbo in the next few months. I'll post up build pics and maybe a vid as i'm going.

 

[dsmusmc]

With the 2.2 and 94mm crank you have a better rod ratio. You'll have the low end and torque of a stroker yet still capable of revving to 9K. Only down side is the price.

 

[FLASH1970]

As others have said, I'd go with a 2.3/2.4 and don't bore it .060 over to begin with. The displacement you'll pick up from boring it that much won't make a difference. If this is the first time the block is being used in a rebuild, take it to the machinist and have them tell you what size pistons to get.

 

[Turbotsiawd]

Crower is the only person who makes a 2.7 stroker KIT for us but can we just buy the crank at first then the rods?

 

[FLASH1970]

Crower is the only person who makes a 2.7 stroker KIT for us but can we just buy the crank at first then the rods?

A 2.7 stroker...?

 

[SEVERENI]

No i believe a 2.4L is the largest crower makes for dsm's.
Brian Crower Evo Stroker Kits for your Mitsubishi EVO from HorsepowerFreaks

 

[racer009]

With the 2.2 and 94mm crank you have a better rod ratio. You'll have the low end and torque of a stroker yet still capable of revving to 9K. Only down side is the price.

I'm not too worried on price, I've been saving all my money that I've been making from this deployment. So far of what I've looked up and companies I've talked to, manley does not make a 94mm crank for a 6 bolt, but they do have the 156mm connecting rods. They take a 22mm wrist pin so I have to get 7 bolt pistons. Just the rotating assembly alone will cost me around $2000.

 

[ed1380]

You're a big misinformed on the stroker part. A stroker has more displacement which spools the turbo faster. A 6 bolt stroker crank is pretty hard to find and sadly a 1g can't take a 7 bolt 4g64.

Also a 2k rotating assembly can become worthless in a split second. A standard eagle/wiseco combo has stood the test of time and you can have 2 of them for that price.

 

[racer009]

I will have to contact them and see what the prices are on their connecting rods and pistons.

 

[dsmusmc]

I'm not too worried on price, I've been saving all my money that I've been making from this deployment. So far of what I've looked up and companies I've talked to, manley does not make a 94mm crank for a 6 bolt, but they do have the 156mm connecting rods. They take a 22mm wrist pin so I have to get 7 bolt pistons. Just the rotating assembly alone will cost me around $2000.

Hell if you can do it go for it. Only reason I went that route is I got a new Magnus crank for the price of an Eagle crank.

 

[Turbotsiawd]

My bad 2.6

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/se...ubstring=&veh=1G+DSM&cat=255&type=Stroker+Kit

 

[racer009]

My bad 2.6

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/se...ubstring=&veh=1G+DSM&cat=255&type=Stroker+Kit

that stroker kit is for the 4g64

 

[gakattack456]

Don't bore, this is only to ensure the cylinders are straight when rebuilding. Not for displacement gains, and the more you bore the weaker your cylinder sidewalls become. I would stick with a 2.0L if you're doing any long laps. The amount of heat generated from the increased piston to rod angle wouldn't be favorable for long races. The taller deck height of the 4G64 block eliminates this concern and can also handle plenty of power. Not sure what that helps but just thought I'd mention that.