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Boring Engine

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96talontso

10+ Year Contributor
300
0
Jul 12, 2011
Edmonds, Washington
I've looked around a little and everybodys opinions of boring the 4g63 is mixed. I was planning on getting a new crank, cams, pistons then asking a shop to bore my engine .020 and just put those in for me once finished with the overbore. opinions, and would there be any other things to replace (excluding balance shaft) that will help with reliability (its my dd) and obviously power.

I'm looking for like 350-400 AWHP in a perfect world.
 
I've looked around a little and everybodys opinions of boring the 4g63 is mixed. I was planning on getting a new crank, cams, pistons then asking a shop to bore my engine .020 and just put those in for me once finished with the overbore. opinions, and would there be any other things to replace (excluding balance shaft) that will help with reliability (its my dd) and obviously power.

I'm looking for like 350-400 AWHP in a perfect world.

The block work sounds good but to.achive that kind of who youre gonna need a good turbo setup.to.achive that also a good fuel system.
 
The tiny displacement change from a .020 overbore will only give you a few horsepower. The point of the overbore is to cleanup the cylinders so the new rings have a fresh surface to seal against.

The crank is pointless to replace unless yours is damaged or you want to do a stroker.
 
Can you post a link for a stroker kit. Im trying to up my horsepower as much as possible while fixing the crankwalk problem etc etc.
 
its to help reliability against crankwalk since im gonna keep the 7 bolt.

You have much research to do. Instead of just wanting to throw brand new parts research the stuff, almost everything you've asked in your recent threads you could have researched.

Don't be in such a rush to have everything figured out, that's where problems and mistake come in. Set your budget, goals, etc.

You definitely don't need a stroker to achieve your hp goals.
 
I dont remember where i read it but i read that the best way to prevent crankwalk is to get a new aftermarket crank for it....?
 
I like to receive opinions instead of reading a websites opinions but thanks for your input. Anyways, im just really worried from everything that ive heard about reliability on the 7 bolt at higher horsepower...? is it even worth the gobs of money to do?

Not everything on the internet is fact, some people like to play genius.

Thanks for reinforcing why i post all my questions instead of trusting websites hahaha
 
I like to receive opinions instead of reading a websites opinions but thanks for your input. Anyways, im just really worried from everything that ive heard about reliability on the 7 bolt at higher horsepower...? is it even worth the gobs of money to do?



Thanks for reinforcing why i post all my questions instead of trusting websites hahaha

Yeah, searching might be a hassle but it's not too hard to sift through some of the bs and find the good stuff, and even posting questions sometimes, some people post the wrong things(not intentionally) and sometimes it does slip through the more knowledgeable members and you'll never know.

So many things come into play when you mention reliability of a rebuilt engine, find a shop that knows what they're doing, have done plenty of 4g63's, tell them your goals, etc.
My recent 2g I picked up is a 95 and has 108k, stock 7bolt on it and has had a pte 50 trim since 2003 and only blew because the balance shaft decided to shred into pieces and fly into my timing belt. The previous owner owned it since new and took extremely good care of it.

Luckily between the 3 dsm's I own(2 7 bolts), none of their cranks decided to do the walk on me.
 
My 7 bolt and all the others I have built seem to be just fine. The .020 over bore helps with more than giving the rings a surface to properly seat against. The cylinders warp over time. The bore ensures a straight cylinder and also also allows for more precise engine tolerances. If your engine was fine before you tore it down the crank will only need to be polished. The OEM crank is THE best crank to use in a 4g63. It is hard to beat the stock crank.

I know quite a few high horsepower 7 bolts out there that run and perform just fine. Stock crank and all. Please pm me if you want a price quote for machine work and/or possibly a short block built for you.
 
something gets lost in the modern engine and its called 'rebuilt'
cutting cranks and boring blocks is for small block Chevy's its the old way of doing things
the modern engine is not built to be bored
the engines are built with a new hardness prosess called 'true flex' harding
you cant cut the cranks, you replace them, the smaller juornel causes vibration that streches rod bolts
you MAY bore it .020 but, the cylinder walls go soft because you are past the harding process
IF you choose to bore, make sure and power hone with your head bolts torque in the head using a boring plate, as dumb as it sounds, the head bolts torqued in the block distortes the bore , so you have to clean up the distortion
in all honesty, boring is not worth the effort, its hard for the new rings to mate the surface and it prematurly wears out the cylinder walls
 
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