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Stripped Oil Pan Bolt - What is the bolt pattern?

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95AWD6Bolt

15+ Year Contributor
504
2
Dec 2, 2006
South Jersey, New Jersey
I stripped out one of my oil pan bolts.( One that connects the pan to the block). What size tap should I use?(6 bolt)

Also what is the torque setting for the transfer case bolts?

also, I read this after I did the removal and installation but I was unaware that there are shorter bolts that go underneath where the timing bolts is. How long should they measure in length?
 
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I pulled the info I posted above from CAPS (Mitsu parts locater) and the bolts on my 7-bolt 2g oil pan are 10mm as well.

This is from that thread you linked to...
(2x) Oil pan bolts under the timing belt: M6 x 1.0mm pitch x 10mm long
(18x) Other oil pan bolts: M6 x 1.0mm pitch x 12mm long
Use his info and go with the 10mm length if thats what your confused about, I changed mine above too that way others coming into the thread don't think its something different. The 7mm or 8mm lengths your seeing are probably referring to the 7-bolt pan bolts on the belt side. Thats why I posted those lengths, I saw your car was a 2g and looked over the 6-bolt reference in your OP.

:dsm:
 
ahh ok, thanks gofer!

I think what I am going to do is instead of taking all of the pan bolts off and checking them one at a time, I am just going to go buy new 'short' bolts and make life easier.
 
Ah, my mistake. I was in a bit of a rush looking at ASA for a 2G forgetting the block was a 6-bolt. :coy:

Removed incorrect information

I believe the 10mm should be right, though.
 
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Or, again assuming ASA is correct, count all of the bolts holding the oil pan on: 20 is early 1G 6-bolt, 19 is later 1G 6-bolt and after.

Edit: ASA is not correct on this. All 1Gs had 19 oil pan bolts.
 
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Or, again assuming ASA is correct, count all of the bolts holding the oil pan on: 20 is early 1G 6-bolt, 19 is later 1G 6-bolt and after.

19 bolts. Ill go get the vin in a little bit.

I cant see the vin clearly enough to write it down.

I just pulled of the bolt that is directly beneath the timing belt. It measures 10mm(This is without the head of the bolt. Im assuming that is the correct way to measure it.) It seems that I got lucky and put that one in the right place. I rethreaded the bolt and put it back in. Just to clarify, it is the hole that the bolt goes into that is stripped, not the bolt. Im going to tap the hole. Hopefully this will be possible without taking the pan off.

If I am unable to tap the hole without taking the pan off, do you guys think that it would be ok to go with the next size up bolt?
 
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Corey, I checked an early 6-bolt block (pre-August 1990) I have sitting around and it also had 19 bolts. I am not sure where ASA got the information but I will say it does not apply to DSMs.
 
Corey, I checked an early 6-bolt block (pre-August 1990) I have sitting around and it also had 19 bolts. I am not sure where ASA got the information but I will say it does not apply to DSMs.

Wow, thank you!

Just to confirm, 10mm is the correct length bolt that goes under the timing belt.

When I measure a bolt it is the length not including the head, correct?
 
I'm glad I came across this thread, I just put in new 3g lifters and noticed there were some weird gashes in my timing belt closer to the block. I figured it might be the bolts so I switched out the few that are closest to the timing belt. I don't know if they are even the original bolts so I'm going to order a set from DSM Graveyard.

Sucks cause I broke the head off of one as I torqued it down...I don't usually over-torque these bolts, but I thought I might try torquing them down to spec according to the Haynes (oil-pan still leaking after removing and applying "the right stuff"). Well, low and behold one of the heads snapped off with 130in-lbs. I felt very hesitant to do this, but I figured the manual was accurate...

Well, at least I have the revised lifters in now!
 
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