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Street car, ran my first 10 second pass 68HTA

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Post #7 in that link is what I'm used to seeing with my Big Block friends, lowers stall and slightly helps the top end due to the thicker fluid helping the couple. Adding stall would imply it's thinner than our normal fluid and also 300rpm on a big block making 800tq @ 3000rpm vs our 80tq is a huge difference. We'd never see 300rpm on the same fluid.
 
Well I'm on whatever hot side a big 16g has so I don't have trouble stalling. Maybe I'll take both fluids to the track on a T&T and see what she does. Right now I'm running Wolfs Head trans fluid. It is fully synthetic and is $60/12 qts. I've sat on the converter for 10+ seconds when I screwed up and got it on the chip when bracket racing an 18 second car. I don't have a trans temp gauges but I'm pretty sure I pissed off important bits in the transmission.

Can somebody post the two different kinds of Hy Guard and I'll buy both.
 
For what it's worth English ran a 24.5 and shifted into 4th on his quickest passes with the hta.

Actually I ran out third and didn't use OD on the 9.95 pass

OP. sick times for street car man. nice to see others using the HTA68 to crush the 1/4 mile. I love the looks on the faces of people when they see the tiny ass turbo under hood. most ask "where is the turbo at" LOL
 
Got the stock converter in and put the John Deere fluid in. It is definitely tighter down low but I could still get it up on the stall in a reasonable amount of time. Gotta retune to get it on the converter better though as its lean trying to climb on it. I'll get it sorted out and make it to the track. As long as the short times don't suffer I'm confident it will couple better up top.

The restall'd converter I had on it would be more at home with a bigger hot side car so I may keep it for a future turbo upgrade or sell it if someone is in need. I think the converter I took off would be at home on an engine that pulled to 8500rpm and it can easily stall to 3500-3800rpm. That or I can throw a 100 shot at that converter at the line on slicks and with the tq multiplication it should sixty well. It would probably ballon and throw the thrust bearing but it would be one hell of a glory pass!

Would like to make it to the track over labor day.
 
So dusted the car off again and brought it out. I changed the converter to a stock one and changed the fluid out for some fresh John Deere. I also had to advance the cams to help it get on the stall. The 2 step was lowered from 3500 to 3200 as the stock converter was tighter.


It was slower until the 1/8. I think this change as a wash as the air temps were 10 deg better today and the humidity was also lower. Still a fun day. :)

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Only took one video and it was a slower 11.0x pass.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9DgGhZWNycM]auto dsm 11.0xx pass - YouTube[/ame]
 

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As a followup I put a sinister speed 10" in that is a couple years old. I sent it back to mike at SS and had him pull some new tweaks. Note, this converter is not offered anymore.

The bad:
The very first launch at a measly 3200rpm the car went hard right and I had to counter steer to a 1.711 on slicks. This is not typical for my car. I turned the 2 step up and ended up getting a 1.54 sixty but I couldn't capitalize with a better ET or MPH. Engine power was down, possibly due to high humidity again but also possibly due to something binding/broken/stripped in the drivetrain.

The good:
The converter showed as good as or better coupling efficiency up top compared to the unstalled stock converter. It also got on the stall very quick, around 2 seconds from idle. On the stock converter it was taking 8-10 seconds, which makes it very hard to get onto the tree when bracket racing, guys aren't dump and will force you to burn it down making you go in first. Now, I just go full throttle when we are both fully staged and it gets on the stall with time to spare.

Also the SS pulled the engine down 100 more RPM on the 2-3 shift. Trans temps started out at 100 and ended around 160 deg F each pass. Note, I have my temp sensor mounted in the oil pan where the stock oil drain is.

So I have some work to do over the winter. Possibly looking at an aftermarket intake to replace my stocker. Also looking at new tires, something in a 26" drag radial. I would like to get 15" wheels but would need to sell my 17" evo wheels first but nobody seems interested in buying them local.
 
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