The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support ExtremePSI

Street '96 Spyder

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Haven't updated the build in a while; That all changes now. The car mainly gets worked on in the warm months since I do everything with my dad on the sidewalk. Hoping to start documenting and photographing everything I do for now. I've made a lot of mistakes but learned along the way. So far, all thats been done since I bought the car was:
  • Replaced Full Front Suspension (Trying out Mevotech)
  • POR15 Undercoating
  • KONI STR.T Orange Struts and Eibach Springs
  • Replaced Clutch Master Cylinder
  • Powerstop Slotted/Drilled Rotors (Hope to get dual piston calipers)
  • Replaced Leaky Valve Cover Gasket and Maintenance Stuff
  • New Stereo Receiver
  • Vibrant 1146 Muffler
My chances of going to an autocross this year are looking slim since of our ongoing pandemic. The car has definitely improved as a daily driver and the next issue to tackle is the convertible top. Learned so much already from my first car and my first DSM.
 
The old vs. new stereo receiver. Found some old rock CDs in there OMG. The old unit had an issue where higher volumes resulted in it shutting off. Think it was the wiring but I crimped the new harness to an old adapter that was in place. Happy with the result!
 

Attachments

  • thumbnail_Image-29.jpg
    thumbnail_Image-29.jpg
    195.2 KB · Views: 79
  • thumbnail_Image-30.jpg
    thumbnail_Image-30.jpg
    158.9 KB · Views: 93
  • thumbnail_Image-31.jpg
    thumbnail_Image-31.jpg
    215.6 KB · Views: 89
  • thumbnail_Image-32.jpg
    thumbnail_Image-32.jpg
    191.3 KB · Views: 97
Looks good so far!

I just finished replacing the top on my Spyder a few weeks back, it's not as difficult of a job as it may look and was a LOT cheaper than I expected too. Total cost was less than $500.

I got a lot of requests to turn my build profile into a tech article "how to", hopefully this can help you out.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/convertible-top-replacement.528063/

Looking forward to seeing what your car looks like with those Evo enkeis!
 
Looks good so far!

I just finished replacing the top on my Spyder a few weeks back, it's not as difficult of a job as it may look and was a LOT cheaper than I expected too. Total cost was less than $500.

I got a lot of requests to turn my build profile into a tech article "how to", hopefully this can help you out.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/convertible-top-replacement.528063/

Looking forward to seeing what your car looks like with those Evo enkeis!
I've been following your build religiously and its become a goal of mine to sort of follow along your path. My issue is that I'm trying to avoid taking the entire top off and dealing with that headache. Is it possible to replace the frame arms without taking everything off or do I have to do the whole top removal? The images I posted show where the arm was sheared.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0266.JPG
    IMG_0266.JPG
    901 KB · Views: 89
  • IMG_0267.JPG
    IMG_0267.JPG
    1,003.2 KB · Views: 78
  • IMG_0268.JPG
    IMG_0268.JPG
    803.1 KB · Views: 58
Your best bet would be to remove the entire frame assembly from the car and swap it like that. You'll have to peel back the canvas in a few small spots, but for the most part you'll be able to keep everything in tact. That's a rough spot for the frame to have sheared, any idea what caused it?
 
Your best bet would be to remove the entire frame assembly from the car and swap it like that. You'll have to peel back the canvas in a few small spots, but for the most part you'll be able to keep everything in tact. That's a rough spot for the frame to have sheared, any idea what caused it?
No I bought the car unseen from an auction like this. I've always wondered what in the world could cause that :idontknow:. It doesn't seal right and makes so much noise when driving so its next on my fix list. Thanks for the help, really appreciate it.
 
No I bought the car unseen from an auction like this. I've always wondered what in the world could cause that :idontknow:. It doesn't seal right and makes so much noise when driving so its next on my fix list. Thanks for the help, really appreciate it.

Yeah, that section of the frame provides most of the forward tension in the top. I can only imagine the wind noise you're dealing with.. If you need any help or have any questions while pulling the frame feel free to shoot me a PM. I've had my top apart twice now and have had plenty of time to decipher "how it works".
 
Yeah, that section of the frame provides most of the forward tension in the top. I can only imagine the wind noise you're dealing with.. If you need any help or have any questions while pulling the frame feel free to shoot me a PM. I've had my top apart twice now and have had plenty of time to decipher "how it works".
Yeah you hit it right on the nail!
Yeah, that section of the frame provides most of the forward tension in the top. I can only imagine the wind noise you're dealing with.. If you need any help or have any questions while pulling the frame feel free to shoot me a PM. I've had my top apart twice now and have had plenty of time to decipher "how it works".
You have no idea how bad the wind noise is especially on the freeway :banghead:! I'll PM you when I get down to pulling the whole top at a junkyard by my area. Thanks again for the help.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top