Strange oddity after PS Pump seal kit

[2fast4]

So I bought new seal kit to replace Power Steering Pump. Diaper was OK for a little while but got tired of keep replacing diaper on underside.

The work was relatively easy except for lining up the bolt holes. And I'd recommend loosening up 3 bolts/nuts(top, return bracket, sensor terminal), while it's on the car. Same for torquing it back on, thread it in loosely and mount it on the car, then now you can easily use the torque wrench. Forget about putting any kind of torque on it out of the car, because of small size, unless you got bench vise.

Now back to this oddball situation and need help on.
I replaced all the seals and cleaned it up. And re-assembled everything back together. When it was like the last part to put together, the Pump Cover, I torqued 4 bolts to 15ft. lbs and try to turn the pulley - NOPE?! It won't budge. Push pulley in/out to see free play it supposed to have - frozen tight. So I loosen up the bolts a little and turn - it turns but sticky. Loosen all the way - it's normal w/ free play.

So I took it apart and discover that the pulley shaft is pushing on the inside of the pump cover.WTF
I look over all the parts but I'm not missing any parts from what I can tell. Although the DSM Manual CD and comprensive VFAQ on this site shows picture of 6/90 and later cars, basic 12-piece seals are the same. 6/89 - 5/90 cars got 3-piece housing design. And 6/90 - 5/94 is 2-piece design. Sort of like 1GA and 1GB distinction but offset years unlike the engine/brake/rearend.

I'm completely dumbfounded as to why the end of shaft is touching the cover even though the cover has countersink to accommodate the shaft end.

Feeling is as though if there should be a "spacer" somewhere between the shaft and the cover. Oh, the snap ring is getting chewed up when I torqued the cover bolts and it pushing it down onto the sharp edge of cog on the vane.

So I'm trying to find out if I'm missing a part or some logics as to why it's touching/grinding the cover so I can get on the road again.
Take a look and let me know.

 

[Calan]

I've never taken apart the early ones (didn't even know they were different)...but are you sure your are putting the rotor in the right way? If it's like the later ones, it has a chamfer on one side that the shaft's snap ring sits in. If you have it facing the wrong direction, the shaft will sit closer to the rear cover than it should.

Your pics look the same as the later pumps except for the 3-piece housing, so I'm guessing the rotor, side plate, etc. are the same. If so, the rotor will have a small square punch mark on one face, towards the outside edge. That punch mark faces towards the rear cover.

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In your first pic, it looks like the snap ring is sitting on top of the rotor instead of down in the chamfer, and I don't see the punch mark.

Of course this all assumes the rotor is the same as the later 1G pumps.

 

[2fast4]

I've never taken apart the early ones (didn't even know they were different)...but are you sure your are putting the rotor in the right way? If it's like the later ones, it has a chamfer on one side that the shaft's snap ring sits in. If you have it facing the wrong direction, the shaft will sit closer to the rear cover than it should.

Your pics look the same as the later pumps except for the 3-piece housing, so I'm guessing the rotor, side plate, etc. are the same. If so, the rotor will have a small square punch mark on one face, towards the outside edge. That punch mark faces towards the rear cover.

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In your first pic, it looks like the snap ring is sitting on top of the rotor instead of down in the chamfer, and I don't see the punch mark.

Of course this all assumes the rotor is the same as the later 1G pumps.

I paid attention to the "punch mark" on the rotor and cam ring. Rotor to face back cover, and cam ring to the face body. And hand-torqued 4 bolts and the pulley won't turn. And no slack either. Not doing.

I turned the "cam case"(middle sandwiched part that makes up 3-piece housing) upside down, to no avail.

You'll see that the shaft end is much shorter than later models. I put the snap ring on the countersink groove where this is only place where it can go.
There is chamfer on one side of the rotor which is a little deeper cut. This part face down to body, opposite of the punch-mark which faces cover. This is snap-ring side on the groove. No difference.

A lot of moving parts are same with early/late models. Except the shaft end is longer on later model and the extra cam case in the middle.

If you need more pictures or see anything odd, let me know. Please......

I've never taken apart the early ones (didn't even know they were different)...but are you sure your are putting the rotor in the right way? If it's like the later ones, it has a chamfer on one side that the shaft's snap ring sits in. If you have it facing the wrong direction, the shaft will sit closer to the rear cover than it should.

Your pics look the same as the later pumps except for the 3-piece housing, so I'm guessing the rotor, side plate, etc. are the same. If so, the rotor will have a small square punch mark on one face, towards the outside edge. That punch mark faces towards the rear cover.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

In your first pic, it looks like the snap ring is sitting on top of the rotor instead of down in the chamfer, and I don't see the punch mark.

Of course this all assumes the rotor is the same as the later 1G pumps.

Thought it'd be helpful to take pictures of corrected version. Punch-mark on rotor facing cover, punch-mark on cam ring facing the body.
Note that I put some "WHITE OUT" on the end of shaft and rotor surface and tightened the cover. Spun it. Then I took it apart and only the shaft was touching. As you can see on cover countersink.

Look at the picture on pulley side new oil seal...does it look right? The oil seal is not flush but countersunk below the surface. I don't think it matters how oil seal is with surface, right?

Did the cover grew fat on me while I wasn't looking?
Shaft is longer than countersink on the cover. I just don't get how this became a problem and now it's NIGHTMARE!

Let me know please...If anyone can PLEASE do me a BIG favor. If you got a pump like mine(before 6/90), take apart the cover and see the shaft end and snap ring area. If you compare, do you see height difference? Or take few shots and post?
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do this one for me!

- WANTED -
I will offer to pay a person $20 who can help to resolve this matter. I'm down for 4 days!!!! A local guy has spare pump but he can't come by since not too close.

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Got a ?................... I'm thinking I might be over-torquing the 4 bolts for the cover.
I've used 1/2" drive torque wrench to tighten to 13-16 ft.lbs spec. Is it too big of t. wrench to 13-16 ft. lbs?
For test purpose, I use long socket and hand-tight them. Is hand-tight strong enough to reach 13-16 ft.lbs? Because it still touches/grinds when hand-tightening them, just not as hard as 1/2 drive.

 

[Calan]

I can't find any information on that early pump, so unfortunately I don't know what to tell you without having the pump in my hands to play with.

Could you get an identical one from a junkyard somewhere to examine?

Sorry I can't be more help.

 

[2fast4]

I can't find any information on that early pump, so unfortunately I don't know what to tell you without having the pump in my hands to play with.

Could you get an identical one from a junkyard somewhere to examine?

Sorry I can't be more help.

Pulley should be easy to spin with hand, right?
And there should be some in/out free play, right?