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I have a 98 eclipse spyder gs 2.4 4g64. I just put it in new hydraulic lifters to rid my life of the nightmarish "tick" that plagues these vehicles. Alas, it was for nought as the ticking has merely moved from one side to the other. Any thoughts on what else could cause this issue?
Yeah. Took it on the freeway after a couple laps around the block. I didn't soak them. Just bled them out. I'm thinking I may have caused some damage from that. Also there was one defective one in the new batch. So I picked what looked like the best one out of the old ones. I was hoping to get lucky.
Rule of thumb for all hydraulic lifters = always soak in clean engine oil before installing, pump piston up/down submerged in oil to bleed air out of lifter to prime it.
Most OEM repair manuals will give the testing/bleeding operations for the specific application.
Too thick viscosity oils can create poor/slow bleeding operation of newer generation lifters, unless designed for higher visc oils, such as older SB Chevy.
Be Sure to RTFM (Read the Factory Repair Manual) for the proper procedure in response #7 from 1990TSIAWD mentions.
No, doubt the valve piston interference has destroyed many a 4G63T.
Being a Toyota Master Tech working at Toyota/Mitsu OEM Dealer (1990-1993), I got introduced to the DSM, Mitsu product.
There was a Hydraulic Tensioner Issue that was causing early T-belt destruction before 60k miles in many 4G63(T) engines, Diagnostic Results =
1) If customer was lucky (car idling/'low RPM), only bent the valves, denting pistons and possible splitting valve guides.
2) If Customer Wasn't (High RPMs or downshifted during valve timing loss) Intake valves bent, split guides, head broke off stem, bounced around in cylinder and destroyed head, pistons, cylinder walls etc.
3) You guys know the drill by now.
4) If the plugs were unable to be removed (meaning peened into combustion chamber, hard or unable to remove) or plug was able to be removed, but electrodes were beat all to pieces = MOTOR was usually a boat anchor or Large amounts of $$ needed for proper repairs.
5) Most of the Cars I repaired were under the OEM warranty, which is why the OEM dealer I worked for was getting the issues anyway.
Next let's talk about what pistons to use for my 92 Laser AWD Rally Car build bought from Estate of Previous Owner Building Car as Automotive Class Project at Community College I teach at, thinking Auto-crosser NOT DRAG RACER!! 1) PO was Rally crossing, NEW T-belt job on engine, Idler pulley bolt backed out (left loose), T-Belt started jumping Valve timing during run, bent all 16 valves eventually. Fortunately car must have lost power, stopped running before Engine Self -DESTROYED.
2) Have 2 replacement heads: ** One with porting job of ?? quality, looks okay, estimate 5 +/- hours spent, but who knows unless flow benched ** Second head with lesser signs of porting time
3) All Pistons w/ very evident valve head contact indentions
4) What Acceptable quality pistons out there, that won't break the bank, but hold up decent under occasional red-line and working the motor/driveline.
The catch there is the "won't break the bank". I run Manley but they can be hard on the wallet. I have a stock bottom end rebuild that we put a set of NPR pistons in and they are coated on the tops too. Have yet to put that motor in service but I will be this spring. They are just stock replacement style pistons but looked sturdy. It has a set of FP2 cams in it so I guess we will see how she works out but I don't anticipate any issues at all.
I use the method given in the 3000GT manuals whenever I replace lash adjusters now. It tells you to prime the adjusters with diesel fuel which will bleed down on it's own from the valve spring pressure. The adjusters fill quickly with oil once the engine starts.