Still no start..

[BurrowZ]

Alright I am making a new thread because my previous one was done on my phone and not detailed enough at all.

Here is the deal, just finished up my 1G head swap. Reason for swapping was because my old 2G head had too many broken exhaust manifold studs in it.

Alright well I did everything by the book. I did ALL my research. Here are things I have checked because it still will NOT start.

CAS is fine- not 180* flipped (97 CAS)
CPS is fine
Coil pack tested good, in spec
NEW power transistor
NEW ECU with new caps
Getting spark to all cylinders
Injectors are same as before swap, never had problems
Timing is dead on

NOW here are the issues I have been having. It started for oh say about 10 seconds. Ran like absolute junk around 150rpms, known good boost gauge read 0 and the car wanted to stay alive but could not. I managed to run to the engine before it shut off and saw that my afpr was pissing out the fittings cause I used teflon tape. So I fixed that (or so I thought) but I can still smell fuel when starting and cannot find the source of the leak but it is definitely around the afpr (aeromotive 13301). I figured this may be my problem but..

I had it hooked up to a 200A battery charger set on 200A (start) and I went to start it. It cranks a little slowly, but when it feels like it wants to start the whole car gets a wild jerk and the starter disengages and I have to release the key and try again. I can do this multiple times. I noticed that after a while my battery voltage stopped reading 14.0 on my voltmeter and started reading 12.8 (while the charger is still hooked up). So now I figure my battery is done as well.

Oh I should add, this has been going on for days and everything I let it be for a while overnight and go back to start it the next day after the first crank or so I get this SUPER loud *BANG* from the engine bay, but it does not do it after that. I figure the engine just floods or something and this is a giant backfire but I am not sure.

Is the fuel my problem? Should I find my stock fpr and see if that is the case?

Or should I get a new battery?

Any and all input is greatly appreciated!! Sorry for the long post

EDIT: 1 DTC: TPS circuit malfunction... but my SAFC reads 0% and then 88% when WOT

 

[minimoose]

I wouldnt ever teflon fuel fittings if they are bad, replace them they are cheap. As for the noise Does it sound like backfire or is it more or a mechanical bang like something breaking slipping ect. Ill try and help you out since no one eles posted. Back fire is usually pretty easy to pinpoint, sounds like a loud pop.

 

[Leonthefaded]

Check fuel pressure regulator, alternator connections, and I know this may sound smartass-like but also your oil level.

Goodluck I'll pop back in and see what happens

 

[miguelmcv]

Test your Cooling Sensor.

If it is off, it will never start.

 

[BurrowZ]

I wouldnt ever teflon fuel fittings if they are bad, replace them they are cheap. As for the noise Does it sound like backfire or is it more or a mechanical bang like something breaking slipping ect. Ill try and help you out since no one eles posted. Back fire is usually pretty easy to pinpoint, sounds like a loud pop.

Little misunderstanding, it was a new AFPR and I taped the fittings without reading the directions, then pulled it off after it was leaking and hooked everything up like normal without tape(however it still leaks..)

To me it seriously sounds like something slipping and breaking. A very loud mechanical bang but like I said it is only after it sits for a day, after that it will crank. It backfires too so I am pretty sure it is a mechanical bang unfortunately.

Check fuel pressure regulator, alternator connections, and I know this may sound smartass-like but also your oil level.

Goodluck I'll pop back in and see what happens

I will try putting the stock fpr back on and seeing what happens. Checked alternator connections and oil level is spot on.

Test your Cooling Sensor.

If it is off, it will never start.

Cooling sensor was brand new last year.. think it really could have gone bad that quick? I checked the wires to it and they are fine

 

[miguelmcv]

It will be easier for you to test every single thing that was mention before.

If you think a part is good, only because was brand new....

You will spend more time trying to figure it out then testing all the components.

I just giving you the advice.

 

[dalesocks]

I say make sure your timing is dead on and the firing order is right. also at 250rpm I don"t think the car will start,more like at least 400. Just my 2cent

 

[BurrowZ]

Okay a little update:

Put the stock fpr back on and it started up, however it sounds like it is misfiring a lot and it wants to die. I can give it throttle to keep it alive but it sounds awful.

 

[91awd26]

I know you said you are using injectors that you had used previously with no problems but I would check there. I had an injector die on me at the gas station one day. The car ran great to the store and I shut it off, put some gas in it, and when I started the car it ran like junk (sounded like a subaru on it's last leg and couldnt get out of it's own way). Swapped one of my injectors out and it runs great.

 

[BurrowZ]

I have NO idea if this will help or not, but I have a log of it not starting...

Details, I have a 97 CAS and have checked to use it in DSMLink.

Stock fpr + solenoid put back in and removed leaking afpr.

 

[TrevorS]

You say you just did a head swap and I'm guessing it ran fine beforehand. If that's the case, then chances are your problem is entirely due to the head swap (presuming any other changes you made at the same time have been backed out). I'm just wondering if the timing is messed up, both the basic timing and the cam timing are possibilities. However, if you haven't backed out all the other changes you made, probably best to do so so you can deal with just one issue at a time .