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Steering Wheel and Brake Pedal Vibration

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dogpoop

15+ Year Contributor
90
1
Mar 20, 2004
Fort Myers, Florida
Whenever I brake between 45 and 35 MPH there is an unmistakable vibration (not a pulse) in my steering wheel and brake pedal. Except for this anomaly the ride is fairly smooth (a barely perceivable body rumble does exist at all speeds).

In an attempt to correct this exceptionally annoying problem, I've done the following:
1) Had all four rotors machined and replaced all brake pads (front and rear),
2) Replaced all four rotors,
3) Replaced front hub assemblies,
4) Replaced tie rods,
5) Rotated tires,
6) Balanced tires, and
7) Front-end alignment.

Nothing has even moderately improved the condition.

I replaced the struts a few months before this problem arose (I rechecked all the bolts and nothing is loose).

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks!
 
Check your tires for deformations. I had a similar problem a couple months ago where the steering wheel would start vibrating at certain speeds, but it would go away at other speeds. Turns out 2 of my tires had bulges in them. I replaced all 4 tires, and it was fine after that.
 
Thanks for the suggestion. However, when I rotated the tires I inspected them throughly (even found a screw in one of them) and didn't see any obvious defects. Also, the vibration/shudder only occurs when the brakes are being applied at certain speeds.
 
Where did you get the rotors from, are they new? Replacing or resurfacing those rotors should've solved your problem... :confused:
 
Raybestos rotors (new) and pads. And yes, I initially assumed the problem was related to the rotors as well -- but it obviously isn't.
 
Quasimondo said:
Where did you get the rotors from, are they new? Replacing or resurfacing those rotors should've solved your problem... :confused:

I'm baffled, after all you did and its still there :confused:

and sometimes turning rotors doesn't help, sometimes they just need to be replaced but you've done that too.

when you replaced the rotors did you make sure the hubs were clean so they were sure to sit against a clean flat surface?

what about getting hubcentric lugnuts. these lugnuts place your wheel smack dab in the center of the hub so they are centered properly. ???

what about your rack and pinion? how old is it, any leaks from it?

what about wheel bearings? or is that what you meant by replaced hubs?

is it THAT noticable?

good luck
 
Because I've had problems in the past with removing rotors that have been stuck to the hub, I'm always sure to clean the surface of the hub when installing rotors. But you make an excellent point with that question -- in fact, a Mitshi mechanic once told me to buy a wire brush and always clean the outside of the hub before installing rotors.

The rack and pinion is original and has <110K miles on it. It doesn't leak, make noise or behave in any matter that would make me suspect that it is defective. But that's another excellent point I should consider.

Yes, the wheel bearings were replaced as part of the hub assembly.

Oh yeah, it is that noticeable! Very uncomfortable, almost scary.

Last night, I remembered that when I replaced the struts several months ago, the "spring insulators" (as Mitsubishi refers to them) were not in the greatest condition.
The "spring insulators" are a type of cushion that isolates the coil springs from direct contact with the body. Perhaps this is the cause of all my problems? If I can't come up with anything else shortly, I'll try replacing those over the Thanksgiving Day weekend.

Thanks again, 4ged4G63, for your input. Feel free to keep 'em coming!
 
dogpoop said:
Because I've had problems in the past with removing rotors that have been stuck to the hub, I'm always sure to clean the surface of the hub when installing rotors. But you make an excellent point with that question -- in fact, a Mitshi mechanic once told me to buy a wire brush and always clean the outside of the hub before installing rotors.

The rack and pinion is original and has <110K miles on it. It doesn't leak, make noise or behave in any matter that would make me suspect that it is defective. But that's another excellent point I should consider.

Yes, the wheel bearings were replaced as part of the hub assembly.

Oh yeah, it is that noticeable! Very uncomfortable, almost scary.

Last night, I remembered that when I replaced the struts several months ago, the "spring insulators" (as Mitsubishi refers to them) were not in the greatest condition.
The "spring insulators" are a type of cushion that isolates the coil springs from direct contact with the body. Perhaps this is the cause of all my problems? If I can't come up with anything else shortly, I'll try replacing those over the Thanksgiving Day weekend.

Thanks again, 4ged4G63, for your input. Feel free to keep 'em coming!

yes I know of the spring insulators, they have a bearing in there that you can see from the top at least the 1g's do.

not sure if thats whats causing the problem but you gotta take the strut/spring assembly apart to replace it that insulator.

ae your tires rotating the correct direction? some tires are unidirectional.

do you have stock wheels?

i drove a bimmer 850 once that had some larger rims on it and it would vibrate something nasty between 50-55. but it was fine at all other speeds.

good luck man I have no other ideas right now
 
About 50 percent of the NEW rotors I see are not straight and need to be turned right out of the box. Just because your rotors are new do not assume they are straight. :dsm:
 
I have two suggestions that you have not even touched yet. Have your wheels all re-balanced. You could've just kicked a wheel weight. Two, how are your CV joints? I just replaced one and noticed that half of my wobble went away. Even though they might not be making any noise yet doesnt mean that they arent bad.
mike :dsm:
 
4ged4G63 said:
ae your tires rotating the correct direction? some tires are unidirectional.

do you have stock wheels?

Tires aren't unidirectional. Wheels are stock.

I've never been stumped like this before...and I'm not a spring chicken anymore.
 
jeff01 said:
About 50 percent of the NEW rotors I see are not straight and need to be turned right out of the box. Just because your rotors are new do not assume they are straight. :dsm:

I installed the new rotors after having the existing rotors cut -- yet the problem continued. Consequently, I don't believe that the rotors are at the root of my problem. Of course, I could be wrong.
 
realhp=turbo said:
I have two suggestions that you have not even touched yet. Have your wheels all re-balanced. You could've just kicked a wheel weight. Two, how are your CV joints? I just replaced one and noticed that half of my wobble went away. Even though they might not be making any noise yet doesnt mean that they arent bad.
mike :dsm:

I have balanced the tires since the problem began....no improvement. The CV joints are a scary ($$$) possibility.
 
dogpoop said:
I have balanced the tires since the problem began....no improvement. The CV joints are a scary ($$$) possibility.

I know that it isnt an appealing option but try going to a junk yard and pick thru what they got. If you find one, a real easy way to find out if they are bad or not is to get your hands dirty. You grab both sides of one of the CV joints (one hand on the very end and the other just on the other side of the joint) and give it an opposing twist. If you get any play at all then its done and move on to the next. I lucked out and found a set at the junk yard and only paid like 45 bucks a piece (with a 10 dollar core per). good luck.
mike
 
.....

If you have ever looked at photos (or seen in person) some track/race cars will have some type of tape covering the wheel weights to eliminate them flying off.
 
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