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1G Stalling when hot

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jenjen

10+ Year Contributor
58
0
Apr 7, 2010
montreal, QC, Canada
Hi guys,

I have recently changed the radiator, the Iac, the Oxygen Sensor, the fuel filter & the darn car still stalls when idoling in really hot temperatures.

I think next it will be the MAF or the ECU, but I'm worried that won't help the problem. Other than that she runs great, but doesn't like heat.

What do you guys think it is, because I'm running out of options and miss driving my car.

Please help!
Sincerely
Jennifer
 
It seems odd and unlikely that if the throttle body was that dirty, that it would only act up when the temperature outside is really hot. The throttle body shaft seals could definitely be bad, being the car is 17+ years old, but even still, the problem would still likely be present when hot or not hot outside.

Does it smell like gasoline when it stalls? This would be much like the throttle body seals issue, but even that shouldn't cause your car to run so rich it would stall.
 
yes a little like fuel burning bad. It's a hard smell to exlain, but the fuel smell does happen upon stalling

and yes boys, it only wants to stall when sitting in long traffic, or at lights for a long time, or when its extremely hot outside

But to test it, you can check the resistance between the different pins. Let me know if you would like more information and I'll add to it.

Would u mind giving me more information on this for me? I need to know more on the resistance
thanks so much

The ISC does sound like a possibility. The ISC stands for the "Idle Speed Control" and it does exactly that, helps to control the idle speed by regulating how much air is allowed to pass into the intake (when bypassing the throttle plate). It's a common thing to go out on the turbo cars at least, and is pretty easy to test if you have a Multimeter. Which by the way if you don't, you need to get one. :) I'm not sure if the testing procedures are the same between the N/A (naturally aspirated) and Turbo DSMs though. But to test it, you can check the resistance between the different pins. Let me know if you would like more information and I'll add to it.

Yes please, I would love more information on this.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Alright, so removing the ISC and testing for resistance sounds really difficult, but isn't at all. The ISC is a stepper motor with small coils inside. If one of these coils goes bad, then the motor will not have the full range of movement that it should have. If that's the case, then it isn't able to regulate the car's idle correctly. From what I understand, the ISC when going bad, will actually not function as well as it does when it's cold. So, resistance is a measure of how easy electricity flows through an electrical connection. And a multimeter is used to measure this. An example would be like taking a 1 foot piece of wire and attaching the multimeter to each end. When set correctly, the multimeter will display the resistance between the one end of the wire to the other. Again, it's like "how easy the electricity flows through the wire". So, the ISC can have it's resistance measured between certain connector pins on the ISC itself. This checks to see if any of the coils are bad. It sounds difficult, but really isn't. On my car and most likely yours as well, the ISC is held on by 2 bolts. You unscrew these, and pull it out. Done. Disconnect the electrical connector. Then it's completely free. From there, you can follow the procedure outlined here:
DmTaLoN's Idle Speed Control Test/Fix Page!

Let me know if you need more info or have questions.
 
Hi guys,

my mechanic changed my ISC Motor to a new one, changed all spark plugs and the damm car still wants to stall! I'm almost in tears because I lost my job 2 weeks ago & just spent $300 on the darm part, which hasn't fixed the problem.

Can anyone help me, as I'm freaking out totally & can't afford to put any more money into this.

Is there anyone in Montreal with a talon who knows them and can come to a conclusion on why my car wants to stall & die when its hot out or idols for a lentgh of time.

Please someone help me, I'm in tears

Sincerely
Jennifer

by the way, what I meant to say is there anyone living in Montreal who can come test & take a look at my car to help me find this darn problem

Thanks
Jen
 
Hi Everyone,

Even after changing all the I have, the darn car sill wants to stall after either running for a long time, idoing at a light for a few mintes & especially when the weather is hot.
I have just spent 300$ on a new ISC motor which I was praying would stop the problem. I lost my job 2 weeks ago & can't afford to put money in for awhile.
I have changed...
ISC motor
New Radiator
New spark plus
New coolant system
New starter
New fuel filter
New Oxygen Sensor

My mechanic tells me all the wiring is really good, but now he thinks its the break booster, but why would that cause the car to want to stall & die.

Can it be my shaft seals on the Throttle Body? My BISS screw?
I'm running out of options & am literally in tears because my car is not fixed..
Is there anyone that can help me or that lives in Montreal who can come check my car?
Please Help!!! I'm dying here
Sincerely
Jen Jen
 
you need to describe the problem a bit more. or post a video. does it stumble and misfire or does it just die... does it go pig rich then die from to much fuel. are there any other symptoms?
 
well i read through that and it seems like everyone had you on the right path those thing you fix defeniantly may have been the problem but apperently not.

when it dies does it bog down 1st then die OR STUMBLE THEN DIE and when you try to give it gas does it come back or is there nothing to stop it from dying?
 
:aha: I noticed you said something about it smelling like sulfur when it dies. This is usually caused by the catalytic converter being clogged up. It is part of your exhaust sytem used to reduce the toxicity of emissions from an internal combustion engine (wikipedia). Basically it acts as a filter for gases coming from the engine. I would make sure you tell your mechanic about this smell. Hope you get the car up and running again soon! Don't know if no one else noticed this or not. Also does it smell like this every time it stalls?
 
thought of that but when i had the exaust fixed the mecanic took it off, so it can't be that. Yes it does a wierd smell everytime it stalls.

I really do appreaciate all your input..any info is helpful to me at this point. I'm dying & in tears because I cant find this darn problem

can it be that I need a new ECU??? but it only happens when driven awhile and engine gets really hot. Or when I'm idoling at a light for awhile...It;s so wierd
 
I would be leaning more towards the Igniter, The main MPI relay,The MAF, Or the CAS. It could be the EGR is stuck, Or a big vacuum leak, It could be a filthy throttle body, It could be alot of things really. Unfortunately you will need someone with the ability to check all of these things without costing you a fortune. Try pulling a code even if the light is not on, These old OBD systems dont always fail hard. I wish I, Or someone else lived a little closer so we could be of more help. Good luck.

P.s. Shaft seals will not stall the car. check the plug at the MAF for corrosion, I had a 91 That had this problem.
 
The throttle body was cleaned but not completely. It was never taken out and cleaned thourougly so I will definately have my mechanic do that.

Someone also mentioned the overflow protection sensor which fixed his stalling problem, but no one seams to know what that is
 
I would be leaning more towards the Igniter, The main MPI relay,The MAF, Or the CAS. It could be the EGR is stuck, Or a big vacuum leak, It could be a filthy throttle body, It could be alot of things really. Unfortunately you will need someone with the ability to check all of these things without costing you a fortune. Try pulling a code even if the light is not on, These old OBD systems dont always fail hard. I wish I, Or someone else lived a little closer so we could be of more help. Good luck.

P.s. Shaft seals will not stall the car. check the plug at the MAF for corrosion, I had a 91 That had this problem.

++^^

Also, while you are at it, you can buy a new vacuum hose for the brake booster to motor connection. If the hos is rotting, heat will cause it to start leaking. Could be a $3.00 fix.
 
I just googled it and its called a defective overflow sensor

its funny you mention that because my friend who is a mechanic mentioned that he thinks it is the break booster
 
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