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stalling out

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ModRacerDSM

10+ Year Contributor
53
0
Oct 31, 2011
Hanover, Pennsylvania
Car runs fine as long as its in gear but as soon as i go to stop at a light or stop sign she stalls out. RPMs just plummit and it turns off, whether I keep it in neutral or first gear. I pretty much have to keep my foot on the gas or it wont stay running. What should i be looking for or what could be wrong? Need help!
 
When you "stall out" does it gradually drop RPMs or all at once?
When you restart it does it run fine?
when accelerating does it feel like it has less power?
If you begin to stall, try to "key off, then Key on" see if this also prevents it from stalling ( do that with a quickness)

Answer those then we can help troubleshooting, because after all "every stalling issue is a boostleak, and nothing else ever fails"....
 
After i run it for a few minutes it idles really low like below 500. when it stalls its pretty much just all falls out. starting back up I have to give it gas to get it going. it will run fine but if i stop it shuts rite back off. Doesnt really feel like its loosing a whole lot of power, the boost/vac gauge reads pretty normal I would say. I just got new header and wastegate installed so I will check all lines from that. Also i got in a little fender bender and my front mount got a little scraped so maybe it knocked a coupler loose? i didnt even think to check that. Can also post pics if anyone has suggestions of certain areas to look at or to help.
 
+1 on the boost leak. But have you done any logging on car? Check to see if o2 sensor is operating. Sensor for your throttle to detect it being closed. Is your ISC working properly?

Check all these visually if you can while doing your boost leak. And if after fixing any leaks still have issue start looking at the above mentioned parts with the tests you can find on here or in manual.
 
havent tried key off than on yet I will in a few to see if it stays on. should i give it any gas while doing that or let it drop? also I have the dsmlink so i do believe that maf was dropped. if its still there its well hidden..

also has been tuned not by me, the guy i bought it from got it tuned by a shop. Idk if that helps any maybe it was poor tuning?
 
by dropped i meant physically dropped.

The key on key off, do it while it is attempting to stall, no gas..just to see if the ecu compensates and recovers.

I didn't know you had Link, do us all a favor and update your mods list, it can help eliminate the guess work.
 
try removing the ecu fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay and re installing it that is how i fixed my sons car . if that doesn't work then try turning the minimum airflow screw on throttle body a 1/4 of a turn out.
 
Check you MAF clamp settings I accidentally set my to 0 once and had the same issue. If your VE table tuned in good it will run fine driving and idle good when its cold but just die out instantly when you come to a stop. Drove it that way 2 months trying to figure it out and went doh! when I realized what I did.
 
ok so i took it for a 3 hour drive today. checked vaccume lines and couplers for IC before driving. still stalled so i put a bottle and a half of seafoam into the tank and filled her up. after that didnt stall once. rpms dropped real low at times but bounced back up. the idle is fluctuating between 1100 and 700 tho it isnt consistent so im going to clean the throttle body and adjust the biss. maybe that will help get the idle under control? also going to do boost leak test once i get a boot leak tester put together.
 
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