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Spyder top questions

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PlanZero

Proven Member
1,516
263
Aug 13, 2013
Easton, Pennsylvania
So I just added a 96 Spyder GST to the collection and there's a few issues with the top. This is all new to me. I've tightened the latches and cleared the A pillar drains, but it still leaks on top of the drivers side pillar, and I assume it's because the sailcloth isn't seated properly (see attachment). The passenger side looks fine. How can I pull this over and attach it properly? Note the weatherstrip over the window is crooked as well, I assume because of this...

Also,this first bow isn't attached. The PO was manually removing it to put the top down (no headliner) and obviously putting undue stress on the 21 year old fabric every time he put it back. One of the attaching arms is completely bent in half. Is this fixable? Can I just unbend and reattach? If so, can someone post a diagram or pic as to how it's supposed to look? Apparently it was removed because it would get snagged when the top went down. So far I've just been driving without it but it looks goofy.

The only other thing is the driver's side quarter window doesn't go down at all. I checked the connections and they appear OK, but before I go ordering a $80 motor I was wondering if there's any tricks to fixing this. If the window doesn't work with either the door button or top button, could it still be a crack in the wire in the door hinge harness? Or is it most likely the motor since the vert top button doesn't lower it automatically?
 

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Pull the bent arms off, they were shit from the factory anyway. If you search the internet, you can find aftermarket ones that another company made that were a lot better. I don't remember what the company was, but just look long enough. The switch for the top should lower all windows at the same time even when the trunk switch is set on manual. So if the window isn't going down, take another look to see if the window track is blocked or something. If all else is good, you'll probably need a new motor.
 
They all leak a little :D

We purchased new link brackets and the little cables still pulled out, so I modified them so they never would again:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/sun-burned-’99-spyder-gs-revived.483010/page-2#post-153643056

There is a cable that runs in a channel on each side of the top, which is under spring tension and attached with a screw to the front header (on each side). Look to make sure that cable is still attached and/or broken, missing, etc.

Yes, if the other windows are responding to the Top switch, but not the quarter, then you will need a new window motor.
 
I just installed that kit last month on mine and it made a world of difference on the roll up/roll down of the top. This kit will fix that loose rib you are talking about, that rib is still in the car right?

As for the floppy side skirt thing you have going on with the DS pic... there is a thin metal cable that goes from about the 2nd rib to the front corner of the convertible frame... is that still there? If not, that's why it'll look loose like that

Those 1/4 window motors are a pain to change... does the motor turns when you try to roll the window down?
 
I forgot I even made this thread. I wound up getting a new used arm from miller import parts,and it was the revised version with the nylon strap which eliminates the elastic. Mitsu said you only need to replace one (it was part of a tsb kit as well), but I made another strap for the other side. Works great now and minimized the leaks. I still can't get the canvas to slide over enough even after messing with the wire and loosening the front screws, so I just glued it down. Added a little extra weatherstrip, sprayed two cans of the Walmart tent weatherproofing and the top looks good as new.
The window motor is definitely shot. Steve Miller has replacements, I just haven't gotten around to it since it's a PITA.
 
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