Spyder 2.4l 4g64 DOHC 4g63 Stroker Turbo Swap Fully Built Tucked Engine Bay Street/Show Vert

[darknezz7]

^^ talk about giving up quick

So a minor bump here led to a big upgrade there....

The T fitting for the oil pressure sensors snapped off, or got hit by something, the owner saw the oil gauge getting low and car acting weird but continued to drive it to a park half a mile away where the car stalled and came to a stop. No oil left in the pan.

turbo is shot, .018 crank play, bearings done.

Pistons, walls, rods, block journals, cams and journels, ALL OK!

Heres the biggest save, since this is a 2.4 stroker with the flycut wiseco pistons, when the oil pump siezed and the car jumped time 6 teeth (hence why it stalled before engine sieze) it is a NON INTERFERENCE. So the head is fine and I don't have to worry about the belt breaking or slipping anymore...

The crank was reground to .025 for $100 and a new set of oversized acl bearings purchased.
ACL oil pump and oem bsek purchased

Along with.... About $2000 more upgrades and pretty dress up show things.

20g turbo, tube headers, o2 housing

plx boost and oil pressure modules plus dm-6 touchscreens

aluminum radiator and slimline fans

aluminum shifter bushings in and out and a short shift kit

70mm throttle body and fiav delete

fittings for 6an from filter to rail, a new rail, adjustable fuel regulator

stage 3 6 puck

poly motor mounts

That along with a handfull of oem parts from stm and all the dress up stuff.

Also got a sandblaster and professional paint guns, going to respray the engine bay with real auto paint this time. Relocating the power steering lines along the frame rail too.


Should be very nice when done, we have all the parts, pretty much just need to build now .

Oh purchasing ecu+ or eculink and 700-900 injectors too of course.

 

[darknezz7]

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[darknezz7]

So heres where it stands, Assembled it myself this time. I had put the acl bearings in but realized they were.025mm instead of .25mm that the crank was cut to. Got kings instead and eres what I have to say.

I forgot to take a comparison pic but, acls look like piles of dog crap to the kings imo. I know the acl's are the color they are from tri metal and heat treated, but they had rough edges, didnt sit in the caps as well, the small scratches on mains straight out of package. As someone also said the Kings also have far superior oil groves, theres extra ones on all the bearings plus 3 on the thrust while the acl has 2, I think the holes were actually bigger too. Now I really wish I would have taken a comparison pic because the photo above of that I ordered is a stock and not quite what mine looked like.

Did a little more porting on the OFH

Oil pans on and its ready to go again. Just gonna touch up paint it.


Got a 40gal 5 hp industrial compressor, a sandblaster and a professional set of Devilbiss paint guns.

Sandblasty!

Ground out the intake bigger to take advantage of a 70mm throttle body.

 

[darknezz7]

Btw the way the thrust came out to .002" (min spec, .002-.007") and the rod clearance looked about .0015" (.0008 - .002" is spec with a .004" limit), first time using plastigauge, I think it is good though.

 

[darknezz7]

Moar sandblasty

as it sits today

Its been raining and made the sand all clumpy so the engine bay is only half way prepped. Should be painted by next weekend and ready to drop engine in.

 

[darknezz7]

Oh so go figure those cheap headers and 02 housing were warped as hell, $40 to have it all decked at machine shop and they should be good now.

Finished masking off, wax/degrease and epoxy primed the bay, 2 coats

looks like some dysfunctional dalmatian, no more time or patience to strip it anymore, touched a few bondo spots up but could have done A LOT better, oh well.

epoxy primer, clearcoat and basecoat, $169 worth of paint.... $150 guns, $150 compressor (total score, just needed a new safety relief and drain valve).... Painting my own cars forever = priceless

BTW I now have the filter/water separator full of desiccant and 50ft away from the compressor with some hose coiled up in a 5 gal bucket filled with cold water to help cool and condense the air. (pro tip from paint shop)

Basecoat and clearcoat tomorrow!


how do u like the driveway paint booth , was free, a tenant left at rental, score

This is my first time using REAL auto paint and guns, so engine bay was good practice. I'll practice on a fender first, then have a whole perfect set of fenders, doors and hood to go on, but they are red....



hmmm about a year ago this thing looked about the same . This time it should hold up better than the rattle can job last time, mind you it was prepped well and duplicolor auto spray primer/paint/clear was used, but the first drop of fluid on the paint ate the clear collected dirt and smudged it all up... boo never again.

aug 22 2014, here it was with the rattle can, actually very smooth and probably smoother than it will come out this time, just did not hold up worth crap.

 

[darknezz7]

Done day after above.

Engines in car now too, scratched a few spots and going to touch up, hope to be running in a week.

 

[darknezz7]

darknezz7 updated Spyder 2.4l 4g64 DOHC 4g63 Stroker Turbo Swap Fully Built Tucked Engine Bay Street/Show Vert


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[darknezz7]

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[darknezz7]

Should be running today

need cams and adj gears

 

[darknezz7]

Im absolutely pissed off...

Luckily I had the oil drain bolt out still...

I go to dump water in and it starts pouring out the oil pan drain.... I immediately suspect the turbo, undo the ss drain line at the pan, pour some more water in and sure enough it pours right out the turbo oil drain.

"" I say out loud and throw a wrench across the yard.

No way it could be hooked up wrong, the damn oil feed/drain should have NOTHING to do with the coolant passages I think.

Some research says it must be a cracked CHRA

so much for the ebay 20g, NEVER AGAIN, I saw a few people running them for years no problems so the car owner and I figured give it a shot wth. F THAT. What if this cracked while driving dumping all the coolant into the crankcase, omfg.

Its beyond depressing at this point. Ebay seller has already agreed to refund the cost of the turbo...

Looking for a cheap MHI 16g to bolt on NOW!

holset hx 35 in future.... F all this cheap crap, bunch of stuff I want to throw away now cause its probably going to break. If he has to save up for 5 months to but just a turbo instead of 2 months for the whole manifold and kit then so be it. Not worth all this freaking crap.

/rant

 

[darknezz7]

Well getting refunded $265 for the crapbay 20g

Purchased a "new (4500 mileson it)" evo 3 16g from a member here for $300

I'll feel much better with a REAL turbo on the car. We know someone locally that has a hx35 and hx40 for sale, but that would require all new exhaust components which we dont have the budget. Future though holset yes.

Does this look like a crack in the CHRA, this pic was a btch to get

 

[darknezz7]

This car is cursed and people suck.

First our brand new crapbay turbo had a cracked CHRA, getting refunded but what a hassle, never again crapbay!

So a member here dugan33 has this posted in for sale:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/mitsubishi-evo-3-16g-like-new.495921/

"like new real Mitsubishi evo 3 16g with low miles under 4500 miles never boosted over 12psi. No shaft play, no broken or striped bolts, no oil or coolant lines. Comes with wast gate turbo is ready to bolt on and go. Reason for selling is because i am parting out the car."

Sounds great, I offered him $300 and he accepted.

What I got in the mail was a small ripped up package with pieces of the turbo hanging out, no packaging at all.
What was in the package was a dirty old rusty worn out turbo with a lot of shaft play.

The wastegate flapper has been poorly welded on and sticks open, the actuator was not even big enough hole to go onto the flapper linkage. I drilled out the hole and put some washers between the turbo and actuator so that the flapper didn't open to far and stick open... Think that will be ok?

I checked the numbers (should have first from the picture in ad) what I got is a real evo 3 big turbo, what he had pictured however is a small 16g, I would have stayed away at that point if I did that first. Not only that he mentions he is parting the car, but in text he said he upgraded his car.

And finally his paypal is "auto recyclers". I believe he is advertising good turbos then selling junk from the wrecking yard.

Anyway we our tied up $600 now in crap turbos and really want to drive the car. Thinking keep the boost at 14 and dont go over 5000 rpm and this turbo will last a few months hopefully....

What do you guys think? I see the evo 3's going for 450 used, so 300 still might not be too bad, but its the fact that it is worn out and he said it was like new.


pics of said "like new" turbo... This was AFTER we cleaned it, was covered in oil and rust...

Then Justin said it was a knockoff chra and turbine housing so the whole thing is garbage and cant be rebuilt. So $300 for a $40 compressor housing.


Finally got the car running with junk turbo anyway though, idles good and at 14.6 afr, getting data through ecu+ and gm mas is working but when you give it a little gas it struggles and runs lean.

 

[darknezz7]

darknezz7 updated Spyder 2.4l 4g64 DOHC 4g63 Stroker Turbo Swap Fully Built Tucked Engine Bay Street/Show Vert


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[darknezz7]

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[CrackedDSM]

How does it run with the small 16g and the 2.4? Insta-boost probably.

 

[darknezz7]

I haven't actually driven it on the street yet. Trying to get all the bugs worked out and tuned up.

I'm not sure what the turbo is either, its some kinda evo, 16, 20g, bastard, Chinese mix mut thing. It says .70 ar on the hotside!

Been busy with a 2011 kia v6 drilling the head bolt holes in the block out, tapping and inserting steel threaded inserts because one of the cylinder heads lifted. aluminum blocks gah. Common on 2000's BMW's, I've done several, and of course the GM norstar mess...

 

[CrackedDSM]

Crazy shit.


Also it's probably an eBay 16G that's just had the compressor cover machined to fit the eGay wheel. Easiest way to find out is pop the cover off and measure the inducer and exducer of the compressor wheel. That'll tell you all you need to know. That or the shaft. If it's thick as bawls then it's a chinese crap-bay knock-off rotating assembly, but if Justin said the CHRA is chinese, then everything is chinese except the comp. cover. I trust him, as he's the best damn turbo guy on the planet.

 

[GST with PSI]

I can appreciate the hard work that's gone into this build. I like your attention to detail, and it shows in your work.

I can also relate to trying to stay on a budget, which sometime requires buying used parts. It really sucks you got the shaft on your last turbo. Hopefully, you can find another turbo that doesn't break the bank. Whatever you do, I'd recommend you remove the knockoff turbo while it hasn't caused any damage to your motor. I'd hate for a junk $300 dollar turbo to cost you your stroker...Or worse.

Great work.

 

[darknezz7]

Thank you, I also appreciate you, all, looking and giving advice.

The refund from paypal for first turbo should be in soon and member here dugan33 has refunded me $150 for the junk turbo saying he let his friend use his acc to sell stuff... So I suppose he is off the hook. With the refund money a 16g from Justin will be purchased...

The cheap exhaust manifold has a leak, surprise surprise, so I am going to take it all off again and see if I cant weld up the leak.

We just really wanted to see if the engine sounded healthy and get other unexpected bugs worked out.

I'll be done with kia tomorrow and can focus more on eclipse.

I cleaned the residue off right before install ofc. I notice Autozones or other auto stores house carb cleaner leaves less deposits and is stronger than walmarts supertech brand.

Hows this for a timing assembly, , makes these belt 4 bangers look like kindergarten. Actually it is still pretty simple, line up the cam marks (line) with cylinder heads and match the colored chain links to the (dots), I think they make everything idiot proof nowadays... This engine was nasty I don't think they have changed their oil in awhile.

I always hate putting these dirty parts on nice clean cylinder heads but my part wash is limited, already went thru like 10 cans of carb spray and I do the best I can for time allotted. This was still cleaned up A LOT compared to how it was. I usually get everything I touch completely clean...

This motor will have 3 oil changes though, first cheap filter and thin oil with flush additive idle 10 min, second change drive 20 miles, third with castrol and wix filter.

Sorry just showing off some other jobs I come across, this is the newest car I have ever done and definitely the most different but in a simple and cheaply casted way...

One thing I have to say is there is plenty of room to work around this engine in car, much better than Fords...

 

[darknezz7]

That kia is a SOB. It uses solid tappet bucket style lifters, room to take up valve lash and no adjustment, the machine shop ground the valves and did not measure the stems and cut the tip accordingly. So now I get to go through 24 valves, measure and calculate out the proper sized lifter to be purchased at $21 each from the dealer to make the clearances right because right now it holds some of the valves open and has crap compression.

new engines

Onto the Spyder though...

$467 refunded for first ebay 20g with o2 housing and headers.
Well we paid $50 to have the housing/header surfaced at machine shop and $20 for proper bolts, then I had to pay $30 to ship the junk turbo back. Now the exhuast manifold has a leak, going to try and weld it..

So said and done $367 back and a junky o2 housing and manifold.

dugan33 refunded $150 for the junk turbo he advertised as good for $300, plan to sell it on clist for $150-200 to get rest of money back.

Buying a rebuilt 20g from Justin for $600. /end of turbo issue

 

[CrackedDSM]

Updates!

 

[darknezz7]

The "evo"lution of turbos

Knockoff 16g or something on left, Justin's 20g middle, stock t25 right. Plus the ebay 16g we sent back.

Went back to the stock manifold but ported it and the cheap o2 housing.
This is my first time porting something, not that its a complicated process, what do you guys think, how much did doing this help?

Did not spend much time on the runners

All together

Its on the car now and running, after some issues with ECU+ and not having the TPS sensor adjusted right, running pretty good actually.

Still have not gotten it on the street because the brakes will not bleed, guess I'll be replacing the master cyl.

I'll take a video soon too, though the outside of the car is not very pretty, needs a new body kit, paint, top, rims painted, lower...

 

[darknezz7]

darknezz7 updated Spyder 2.4l 4g64 DOHC 4g63 Stroker Turbo Swap Fully Built Tucked Engine Bay Street/Show Vert


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[darknezz7]

darknezz7 updated Spyder 2.4l 4g64 DOHC 4g63 Stroker Turbo Swap Fully Built Tucked Engine Bay Street/Show Vert


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