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spark plugs that create 1million watts (Pulstars, pulstar, pulse) [Merged] snake oil

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The BPR6ES are for a mostly stock to slightly modified car. If you're pushing 18+ pounds of boost, you'll want to go with a colder plug, which are the BPR7ES. And then if you're pushing so much boost that you're blowing out the spark on the 7's, you'll go with an even colder plug - BPR8ES or BPR9ES. The higher the number, the colder the plug.

Actually, you need a colder plug at higher boost, because the plug has to conduct more heat out of the electrode and into the head to prevent/avoid preignition and detonation.
 
wait one more question, why .028 specifically? why not bigger or smaller?

Too small of a gap, and you get a smaller spark that may not ignite the air-fuel mix. Too large of a gap, and the plug won't arc (air is an electrical insulator, so more air between the electrodes from a larger gap requires more voltage to get the spark to jump).

So you want the "Goldie Locks" gap that is as big as you can get (to guarantee ignition) but not too big such that the spark doesn't happen...it's "just right".

Also, as you run higher boost, you're cramming more air into the cylinders, and this means the insulation between the electrodes is higher, so it's even harder for the plug to spark.

So the spark gap has to be as big as you can get it at full boost and still get a consistent spark.

That's about all I know about the gap.
 
There is a FAQ on this subject.

Apologies for the picture links not working. I'll try to get them working again.
 
I just read an article on Pulstar Pulse Plugs just wanted to know if any fellow dsm owners have tried it or read any hard facts in its statement to improve horsepower and torque? Just wondering if it was worth the $25 a plug?
 
It's just a capacitative discharge plug. Does the same thing as Nology wires. IMO, sparks are meant to have a certain duration and when you start messing with capacitative discharge stuff, it not only throws off your ignition timing (by a small amount), but also messes with the spark duration.
 
I know I wouldn't want to be that guinea pig. Stick with what we know for now. Let others test it out on their rides. After years of proven performance, then maybe you will have a foundation to install them.

BTW, hello New Englanders. :)
 
Ive never used them, but NGK is tried and true. If you're trying to replace then go with something that IS tried and true
 
I'm not trying to get away from NGK plugs at all, I'm just wondering if they've ever been used in a boosted application. And its not suckering me in at all, this is more of a coincidental question that I happen to have a subscript. to PopSci and they happen to be in there and not at the end of the mag where all the other gimpy stuff is.
 
what if they actually work though and could be proven to perform better then NGKs, wouldn't everyone feel stupid? I think no one should make opinions unless they have experience with them, even know NGKs are proven/OEM. Curiosity was never a crime.
 
Or it could be another marketing scam like Slick 50. Then won't the people thinking it could be the new wave of the future feel stupid as well? With that said, I'll buy a set and see how it turns out.
 
Or it could be another marketing scam like Slick 50. Then won't the people thinking it could be the new wave of the future feel stupid as well? With that said, I'll buy a set and see how it turns out.

+1 for being a leader and taking the initiative. Let us know how it works out, who knows maybe it'll be the new thing to own on a dsm.
 
It's a spark. If it is worth $25 each for a plug that does the same thing as a $2 plug to you, then buy them.
 
The first sign of it already being a scam is with the newest issue of DSport right in front of me. Apparently they cannot seem to figure how exactly how much more powerful it is over regular spark plugs. They have one claim of being 10x more powerful and then they have another claim of being 20,000x more powerful.
 
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