sometimes when hes revving down, like pulling up to a light, it stalls

[sickal]

hey guys
i found a guy with a DSM willing to trade for my motorcycle...
its a 1995 talon TSI (he has a bunch of mods including a 6-bolt motor swap, AFC, 550cc injectors, tuned, 20g turbo, (20 psi))
he said it runs good, and the new motor has about 20k miles on it, but the body has 150k...

he said the ONLY thing is that sometimes when hes revving down, like pulling up to a light, it stalls....

could this be a big problem? i dont wanna buy somethin that might be a mistake...any info is appreciated.
thanks guys.

 

[talonalex92]

Im betting all my money on the idea that hes venting the BOV improperly. Its not a hard fix unless its got a bov thats not recirc-able.

 

[JayRolla]

It could be a number of things. The idle could be set too low, or there is a vacuum or boost leak. Could be bad throttle body. Could just need a good tune up. I would hook up a logger and see if its detonating at WOT. This way you could see if its been driven on a good tune.

 

[BoostFrenzy]

he said the ONLY thing is that sometimes when hes revving down, like pulling up to a light, it stalls...

Yeah, I have that problem too. To me, it's because of my vented BOV. (Please don't flame, I don't like it as much as anyone else. It's just that it is a really awkward angle for my BOV to Intake pipe). But that is only after putting it in neutral. My RPMs will drop down to where the engine almost stalls and then it catches and revs back up to 750.

My advice to you:
-Check the engine for anything. Coolant in the oil, oil in the coolant, leaks from anywhere, etc.
-Ask the owner if you can do a compression test.
-Ask the owner if you can do a boostleak test. (If they say yes, make one yourself before you go over there. Here's how: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html )
-And if you are really serious about buying/trading to this car, go ahead and buy a proper logger and plug it in when you test drive it to see whats really going on with the engine.

Other then that, just keep your eyes and ears open to anything that looks and sounds out of the ordinary. And if you have anymore questions, feel free to post them in this thread so we can help you again. Good luck!

 

[vmac]

it doesnt sound like a big problem at all, i think it would be a good idea to trade. does the engine make any clicking or knocking sounds when it idles? if you do trade, check the oil (to make sure it doesnt have a broken gasket or something), cracks in the radiator, etc. just keep in mind he built the car for racing for a reason.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

The only problem with that idea is why is he willing to trade a 95 w/lots of mods for a bike?

My guess would be that this car is a POS on the verge of being a huge money pit.

What kind of bike?

 

[Evil04c]

ya you trading him a busa or something?

 

[voodoogsx]

Check to see if there are any local folks in your area(communtiy/regional forums) that could help out with checking out the car. I luckily had 2 friends go with me that were well versed with the cars...I passed up two lemons before buying one...

 

[mitsu29]

Yeah, I have that problem too. To me, it's because of my vented BOV. (Please don't flame, I don't like it as much as anyone else. It's just that it is a really awkward angle for my BOV to Intake pipe). But that is only after putting it in neutral. My RPMs will drop down to where the engine almost stalls and then it catches and revs back up to 750.

My advice to you:
-Check the engine for anything. Coolant in the oil, oil in the coolant, leaks from anywhere, etc.
-Ask the owner if you can do a compression test.
-Ask the owner if you can do a boostleak test. (If they say yes, make one yourself before you go over there. Here's how: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html )
-And if you are really serious about buying/trading to this car, go ahead and buy a proper logger and plug it in when you test drive it to see whats really going on with the engine.

Other then that, just keep your eyes and ears open to anything that looks and sounds out of the ordinary. And if you have anymore questions, feel free to post them in this thread so we can help you again. Good luck!

Hey, ive been having the same issue as of late, while im driving and put the car in neutral, sometimes my car just stalls/turns off? The scary thing is, im not venting my BOV, so now im a bit scared about what it could be? it only does it sometimes and only when i go into neutral?

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

What kind of bike?

+1 What king of bike?

We don't even know what he's trading it for. If you're trading an 97 Ninja 600, then yea.. by all means trade ASAP.

But if you're riding a newer Ducati or even a GSX-R 1000... I'd think twice. Modded cars are a gamble unless you know that it's been taken care of well.

I like the idea of investing in a logger, hell it's not like you won't be able to use it on another car if you don't trade. Also, I agree with some of the earlier posts in that, it stalling out during deceleration is not a huge issue at all and can be fixed pretty easily for the most part (it could just be a loose battery cable).

 

[BoostFrenzy]

Hey, ive been having the same issue as of late, while im driving and put the car in neutral, sometimes my car just stalls/turns off? The scary thing is, im not venting my BOV, so now im a bit scared about what it could be? it only does it sometimes and only when i go into neutral?

Yeah, sadly it will only get worse. What I find really strange is that my A/F gauge (Autometer light show) pegs lean to where it almost falls off the gauge. I have to tap my throttle a little to get it to go back to "stoich" or "rich". I am hoping that it is an ECU issue or an AFC settings issue because I am going to jump up to Link soon (New job=more money). But before I do that I'm going to replace all my vac and boost lines just to be safe and also clean my ISC and TB for good measure. Best of luck to you with yours man.

EDIT: Oh yeah, and my battery looks like crap as well. So that is also something I am going to be replacing soon with a Optima Red Top to see if that fixes any of my little gremlins.

 

[sickal]

thanks for the input guys.

im going to see the actual car tomorrow. so far ive only talked to the guy...the one thing i DIDNT like was he said hes running a 20g turbo on 20 PSI...and he never changed the fuel pump....wtf...

well see i guess...

btw-the bike is a 2002 honda CBR 954RR / new tires / new sprockets / new chain / TOP condition.

he said he wanted 6k for the car, so its actually a fair trade. ill let u guys know how it runs tho and if i do make the trade...pix will be sure to follow.

 

[sickal]

+1 What king of bike?

We don't even know what he's trading it for. If you're trading an 97 Ninja 600, then yea.. by all means trade ASAP.

But if you're riding a newer Ducati or even a GSX-R 1000... I'd think twice. Modded cars are a gamble unless you know that it's been taken care of well.

I like the idea of investing in a logger, hell it's not like you won't be able to use it on another car if you don't trade. Also, I agree with some of the earlier posts in that, it stalling out during deceleration is not a huge issue at all and can be fixed pretty easily for the most part (it could just be a loose battery cable).

thats very interesting you said that.

he said he recently sold another car, and used the battery from this car. so the new battery in the car now doesn't fit right...he said there is a lose connection that hes going to get fixed before he sells it.

that could be the reason it might stall sometimes on deceleration?

 

[Locke]

You shouldn't need a battery to drive a car, only to start it - unless you go nuts with the TV screens, PS3 and 360, 2500W amps, &c...

 

[BoostFrenzy]

the one thing i DIDNT like was he said hes running a 20g turbo on 20 PSI...and he never changed the fuel pump....wtf...

Thats what I forgot to say in my first post. Yeah, that does sound fishy as all hell. And only 550cc injectors too. If you look at the turbo and it is small, I say it's a pass on the buy. Obviously the seller is trying to hide something or "build up" the car to be something it is not. Decision is yours good sir.

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

You shouldn't need a battery to drive a car, only to start it - unless you go nuts with the TV screens, PS3 and 360, 2500W amps, &c...

True... but if your ground cable has a bad connection, then your alternator will have a bad ground as well and won't work properly. When I first got my car, it started dying on my whenever I let the RPM's drop too low. After popping the hood and noticing the neg. battery cable was hanging on to the firewall by about 2 threads and then fixing it... I've never had the problem since.

 

[90gsx16g]

thanks for the input guys.

im going to see the actual car tomorrow. so far ive only talked to the guy...the one thing i DIDNT like was he said hes running a 20g turbo on 20 PSI...and he never changed the fuel pump....wtf...

well see i guess...

btw-the bike is a 2002 honda CBR 954RR / new tires / new sprockets / new chain / TOP condition.

he said he wanted 6k for the car, so its actually a fair trade. ill let u guys know how it runs tho and if i do make the trade...pix will be sure to follow.

Somehow that doesn't seem quite right... oh wait maybe because thats not possible. The fuel pump would have to work well above 100% IDC. I would ask him ALOT more questions.

edit: I would also bring it to a reputable shop ( preferrably one that specializes in imports) and pay the $100 bucks to have them check it out. Its worth it to spend a hundred bucks now rather then 2500 down the road for a blown engine due to running to lean constantly. It is possible this guy is a not the smartest and just slapped "go-fast parts" on with out doing his homework.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

It is possible this guy is a not the smartest and just slapped "go-fast parts" on with out doing his homework.

Do ya think????

 

[CaviSpeedRacer]

I just bought my first 95 eclipse gst last week (6 bolt swap, 14b ported turbo at 18 psi, fidanza flywheel, chipped ECU, 680cc, 255 FP, greddy type S, ACT 2100, 3" downpipe and thermal exhaust, ARP headstuds, etc. basically a lot like yours w/ 1000 miles on the motor and 75k on the car) and it had a similar problem. It would almost ALWAYS stall when decelerating quickly at a stop light or stop sign with the clutch in. It was really frustrating but now I am sooo happy I bought the car and it is running great because it was an EASY FIX! so lets see here.... try this....

First off.... does the car have a lightened flywheel like a fidanza? if so, you're going to have to wait until about 1200 to throw the clutch in otherwise its pretty much gauranteed to stall. The first 2 days of driving my car was me getting used to that flywheel.

Second... once I got used to driving my car, the stall problem would only happen if I was sitting there in neutral.... after time the RPMS would just sink down and eventually stall out. Well 2 days ago I adjusted the BISS screw and have had NO problems since.

I guess I'm just trying to prove that yes, buying a modded car is a gamble, but if you are confident with the seller and he shows paper work and receipts, then it is really worth it because it could only be an easy fix.

I don't really know much about DSMs as this is my first one, but I thought I could just throw my 2 cents in ### I had the same problem. Hope this helps!

 

[mitsu29]

First off.... does the car have a lightened flywheel like a fidanza? if so, you're going to have to wait until about 1200 to throw the clutch in otherwise its pretty much gauranteed to stall. The first 2 days of driving my car was me getting used to that flywheel.

Yes, I do have an ACT Lightened Flywheel, but havent put the ACT Clutch in yet ( long story why i didnt put both in the same time) could that be wats doing it, because like i said, it ONLY does it SOMETIMES when i go from high rps and just drop it on neutral, i would go so far to say it does it like, 1/10 times? Doesnt do it often but when it does its just annoying to have to tap the gas for RPMs to raise up? Ill try my idle as i believe its a bit low, isnt our idle supposed to be like a lil above the 900rpm? mine is below that, almost around 800rpms?

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

I believe that 750 is where mine idles at.

 

[BoostFrenzy]

I believe that 750 is where mine idles at.

Yeah, thats the thing with mine. Stock idle is at 750 any my car idles perfectly when I have not moved it yet. It drives great. But when I clutch in (at any RPM) it will crash down, and then catch itself, and then idle at 1k before it drops to like 400 and my A/F pegs lean. I'm going to adjust my BISS and see what that does.

To the OP, sorry that a lot of this is a little off topic. You have a problem and a select few have it or have had it as well. So all in all, it is really kind of helping you too. But you should get used to having problems like this. They may happen often, they may never come at all. You just need to be prepared to have stuff like this. DSMs are a weird breed. (That's for you), (That's for me )

 

[90gsx16g]

I would'nt jump into buying this car quite yet, the idle drop could just be the tip of the iceberg in terms of problems. Obviously this guy isnt the brightest or he would know that the stock fuel pump would NEVER be able to supply a 20g turbo at 20psi. Also he would have to have some supporting mods in the engine to continually run that much all the time. Injectors seem a lil iffy too in terms of being too small.

 

[bpestilence]

For the people complaining about the car almost stalling when you put the car in neutral, and the AFR's going super lean (or rich):

Clean your Idle air solenoid. I have had this problem at one time or another on every EFI car I have ever worked on. Easy fix. Remove the IAS and clean it with carb cleaner.

 

[BoostFrenzy]

For the people complaining about the car almost stalling when you put the car in neutral, and the AFR's going super lean (or rich):

Clean your Idle air solenoid. I have had this problem at one time or another on every EFI car I have ever worked on. Easy fix. Remove the IAS and clean it with carb cleaner.

Thank you