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Someone with a Service Manual (Not Haynes)

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DSMfânâtic

15+ Year Contributor
111
1
Oct 30, 2003
Warren, Pennsylvania
So you don't have to check my profile ~ 97 GST- K&N; MBC & 14 psi

My car wont start. It just cranks. At first I thought it was the fuel pump, because I could not hear it whine for 2 seconds after I turned the key to the on position. I checked the fuel pump using the battery, then I also checked it by connecting the test port to the + side of the battery. It worked both times. Next to check was the MFI relay, (which I had a hard time finding becuase the Haynes manual is so vague) after finding it, I checked it according to the manual:

70 ohms between terminals 2 and 4
Infinate resistance between 1 and 3
with 1 and 3 still connected, connect 2 to the - batt, and 4 to the + batt

The relay did not pass any of the tests. I replaced it ($59 from satan). I got home put the new realy in, and still it will not start. After testing the realy (after it would not start) I got the same results as the old relay. Does the service manual test match the test in the Haynes manual, did I buy a defective relay, or did it break after I tried to start the car? The car will not even attempt to crank over without the relay in place, so that leads me to believe that it is still good.

I checked the plugs next, they are soaked with fuel. Only one needed the gap adjusted. I checked for spark on the 1 and 2 cylinders and they do have spark. The CTS has resistance. I have checked all underhood fuses, and fusible links for resistance. I did not check any under-dash fuses, because none looked relevant. My fuel filter could use a replacement, but I have no flare-nut wrenchs. Besides it appears that fuel is reaching the plugs.

Can anyone verify that the Haynes procedure for checking the MFI relay is correct? What is the relay that is next to the MFI relay, and what is the procedure for testing that? :dsm:
 
whats your email, i can send it to you.


Not sure if you know how relays work BUT if your wires are supplying voltage (use battery) then u should hear a click & there should be continuty b/w the 2 terminals that didnt have it before.

So with ur ohmeter check to see which terminals have continuity
Put your ohmeter jumper cables onto the 2 that dont have coninuity
Supply power to the 2 terminals that have continuity and watch to see if there is continuity to the 2 terminals that didnt have it before. You should hear and feel a click
 
My email is [email protected]

I can get both relays to click, but the procedure doesn't match the Hayne's manual. IMO they owe me $59.

The spark I am getting isn't blue, however it's still a spark. Is it not sufficient enough to burn the fuel maybe? The sparks resemble a lighter that wont light.

Thanks for the help.

Brian
 
Hmm sorry i havent been on the site for a while. Looks like you dont need the MFI procedure stuff anymore


So your getting a faint spark comin from your wires eh? Did you put it on the core support and see a spark? Try that


Any new updates??
 
it might be your crank angel sensor a lot of 2g car get crank walk and it can kill your crank angel sensor. i am fixing the same thing on my friends 98 gst. check it out. or not
 
Yea, i think i do...
I bought the DSM factory service manuals on cd with CAPS from ebay for around $7 shipped....
 
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