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So I just priced out my suspension upgrades

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AK Thunder

10+ Year Contributor
117
0
Dec 16, 2008
Anchorage, Alaska
Total price before shipping: $1139.74

This includes..

New front sway bar end links: 39.00 each

Lowering Springs Megan Racing: 119.95

KYB AGX Front: 134.31 Each

KYB AGX Rear: 85.23 Each

Energy Suspension Front End Control Arm Bushing Set: 44.09

Energy Suspension Rear End Control Arm Bushing Set: 35.00

Energy Suspension Tie Rod Boots: 3.55

Megan Racing Front Strut Bar: 59.95

Megan Racing Rear Strut Bar: 59.95

RM Racing Sway Bars: 300.00

Right now this is just an estimate of what I think could be a decent suspension setup

any thoughts or recommendations on any of this?
 
If this is just a car you drive for fun or cruise in and/or drag race I would say to drop the RM Racing sway bars and the Megan strut bars and you save a quick $420.:D You should be just fine without them.

But... If you autocross or road race your car you might want to spend the extra cash for the improved handling, or you could always wait and add them later as you feel necessary.:)
 
I agree with gravedigger, skip the sway bar and strut bars. Waste of $ IMO. Your also going to need some sort of camber kit with those springs. Look at the ingalls or the DIY
 
I'm going to get into the local auto-crossing we have here, ill probably just get the rear sway bar for now and see how it handles with that, may just skip out on the front entirely if i really don't need it.

What would be a difference by going with coil overs vs new adjustable shocks and spring setup?
 
I'm going to get into the local auto-crossing we have here, ill probably just get the rear sway bar for now and see how it handles with that, may just skip out on the front entirely if i really don't need it.

What would be a difference by going with coil overs vs new adjustable shocks and spring setup?

Better yet, skip the tower bars, AGX's and front swaybar, apply the savings to a set of Koni Yellow's. Also, look into the 26mm Whiteline adjustable rear swaybar that is made for the Galant VR4, if they still make it.

And just say no to inexpensive coilovers. Ask me how I know...
 
It was my understanding that the urethane tie rod boots didn't actually seal that well. So that would save you a whole $3.55! Also underradar gives sound advice, and if you can find somebody with koni yellow's in stock let me know!
 
It was my understanding that the urethane tie rod boots didn't actually seal that well. So that would save you a whole $3.55! Also underradar gives sound advice, and if you can find somebody with koni yellow's in stock let me know!

Don't forget, the rear 1g Koni's are discontinued. Supposedly 2g rears fit, just don't have the brackets for 1g brake hoses, if I'm not mistaken.

Thank you for the compliment, Ravenous.
 
Better yet, skip the tower bars, AGX's and front swaybar, apply the savings to a set of Koni Yellow's. Also, look into the 26mm Whiteline adjustable rear swaybar that is made for the Galant VR4, if they still make it.

And just say no to inexpensive coilovers. Ask me how I know...



?????????? say no to inexpensive coil-overs ??? i have ran anything from k-sport to d2 and BC and stance never had issues..............
 
?????????? say no to inexpensive coil-overs ??? i have ran anything from k-sport to d2 and BC and stance never had issues..............

My opinion, not going to debate this with anyone.
 
?????????? say no to inexpensive coil-overs ??? i have ran anything from k-sport to d2 and BC and stance never had issues..............

It all comes down to what you expect from them.

If you're just looking for a nice, adjustable drop, then the cheap ones will do. Might not last forever, but for the price, you can replace them in a few years.

But if you want something for competition use, something that will perform the same way again and again, race after race, weekend after weekend... you're better off spending a couple extra $$$ on some quality parts.

Just because you didn't have issues, doesn't mean they're good for everyone.

There is a difference.
 
No one answered my question on what the main difference in going with adjustable dampening shocks and lowering springs vs coil overs.

Rather than saying which brand of coil over is better than another or cheap vs expensive could you stick to topic.
Ive talked to autocrossers in my area an a lot of them use AGXs and love them
 
The coilover setups offer more adjustability as well as providing more suspension travel when lowered compared to a lowered car without coilovers.
 
AGX's are good shocks. I've used them in every DSM I had for almost 8 years. I've never blown one out. I just recently sold them with my ground control coil overs in favor of BC coilovers.

You're going to want to have some type of rear camber kit. I have a set of maximal rear control arms.

Suspension - DSM AWD Adjustable Control Arms - Maximal Performance

I had the DME bushings, but for some reason, I still couldn't fix my rear camber issues and they were maxxed out on the alignment machine.

What's the reason for Megan springs? Just askin....
 
Shortest drop.
Living in Alaska, we have really f****d up roads in some areas.
Winter breakup is the worst, masses of potholes form.
The Megans were 2 in. in the front and 1.9 in the rear, I didnt have time to do a bunch or research on springs, but this was just an estimate subject to change, LOL.
 
?????????? say no to inexpensive coil-overs ??? i have ran anything from k-sport to d2 and BC and stance never had issues..............
Those are all the same. Was it the colors that made you switch?

Shortest drop.
Living in Alaska, we have really f****d up roads in some areas.
Winter breakup is the worst, masses of potholes form.
The Megans were 2 in. in the front and 1.9 in the rear, I didnt have time to do a bunch or research on springs, but this was just an estimate subject to change, LOL.


Eibach, H&R (my preference in spring)...both have a shorter drop. Megans will slam your car AND blow out the AGXs. ;)
 
Eibach, H&R (my preference in spring)...both have a shorter drop. Megans will slam your car AND blow out the AGXs. ;)

Well now that i have this info ill not go with the Megans haha.
Does anyone know the spring rate of the stock springs VS Eibach or H&R.
 
Those coilovers are the same except for BC. They actually have wider valve bodies and thicker shafts than the typical D2, k-sport, or megans.

I have personal experience with H&R springs on AGX's. It didn't slam the car down, which is nice. All I can say from what I remember is that the car handled very well. I don't road race or do any of those events, so I can't comment much further than that, sorry.
 
I might just go with the AGX and H&R spring combination.
Seems like a pretty legit combination for light auto-crossing and with DD in mind.

When i get to the stage where my talon is no longer my daily ill probably invest in a good set of coil-overs.
 
What ever you do don't waste the money on a Rear Strut Bar, Pretty much pointless to put one on...

Also You can build your own Rear Upper control arms(or even lowers for more adjustment) with Afco parts very easily Rear control arms how-to
 
Making my own upper control arms would be an awesome idea, after i get decent at welding ill do the lowers and fab a mounting for the rear sway bar.

Thanks for the info and link for the how to!
 
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