so I just installed a new ISC...

[Daedalus]

and it didnt do one damn thing to help my idle problem.

Now the car idles very high (1500) and seems to "stick" on the throttle for 2-3 sec when I push in the clutch. After about 5-7 seconds the idle settles. Now, I know all you guys get in here is idle this and idle that questions, but I have done the searching, research and crap, and would appreciate your help.

I am fairly sure I have a brake booster leak because my idle goes down when I step on the brakes, and decreases depending on how hard I press down. Is this the correct diagnosis?

The car is a manual non-turbo. What else could it be?!?! I want to get the idle grimlins sorted before spring!

Thanks a lot for your help!!!

 

[Mike1992]

After the new ISC did you adjust the Biss screw?

 

[dsmturboawd]

its new or new to you? if you bought it off the trader or whatever, i suggest you test it to see if its trash or not.

 

[Daedalus]

I have tested both ISC's (a little late) and they both are fine. Ohm range was allmost perfect. I did however check the BISS screw... the lil bastard had loosened up. I tightened her down all the way and the idle is much better, its still rough and iles around 900-1000 with the screw all the way down so I dont really know why that is... Are there any other factors that could artificially inflate my idle speed??? I mean, if the BISS Is tightened down all the way, and i'm still idleing higher than the 790 rpm stock isnt that a problem???

Keep the help coming, I greatly appreciate it!

 

[Mike1992]

My car idles with a good ISC and a a new o-ring on the biss at around 8-900 with one turno out on the biss. Try replacing the O-Ring on the biss it shouldn't be able to back out on its own like that

 

[ericismyname]

lumpy idles in 1g is usually alot of things. .

main problems usually are:
Dirty Throttle body, Bad ISC, In-properly adjusted Biss screw

Other things may be:
Leaking ECU caps, Vacume Leak, Compresser Outlet elbow Leak.