Need a new ISC

[LBGTibbs]

So my ISC has gone bad and I need a new one. I've tested it and I'm 100% sure of it being bad. There were a few post's about where to get a replacement but the posts were kinda dated, so I was wondering where I could get a new ISC other than a junkyard. (I've looked already)

 

[GIRman67]

JNZ tuning or a local autoparts store

EDIT: or RockAuto, JNZ does Mitsubishi OEM parts

 

[RvlutionMtrsprt]

Send your bad isc to throttlebodys.com for a core and buy a rebuilt one off Steve. Next best option is dsmisc.com for a new unit.

 

[Gysgt Guy]

80ish bucks new at oriellys...bought mine less than a month ago

 

[slipkid]

80ish bucks new at oriellys...bought mine less than a month ago

Do you have a part number??? Or name that "Oriellys" would recognize that by??

I'm not familiar with Oriellys but found an auto parts place on line by that name here via google:
Home Page | O'Reilly Auto Parts

I looked on their website and can't find any Eclipse ISCs. Also tried calling them and the rep on the phone can't either :-(

I'm pretty sure mine is bad and am investigating now how/where to get one....autozone in my area has them for about $100 but if this Oreilly place has them $20 less, I'd like to get it from them!!

Thanks!!!

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

DSMISC Automotive (New ISC Supplier)
$137 shipped for a brand new revised "black" ISC.

 

[newTSIguy]

I got a good used one if your interested pm me

 

[RvlutionMtrsprt]

Link to O'Reilly BWD 21988 ISC
BWD 21988 - Idle Air Control Valve | O'Reilly Auto Parts

 

[Speed_RacerGSX]

Yeah I have a good used one too. $25 shipped. pm me if you want it.

 

[slipkid]

Link to O'Reilly BWD 21988 ISC
BWD 21988 - Idle Air Control Valve | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Thanks a lot - so they call it a IAC / Idle Air Control Valve!

Dumb question - is that one OK for an Eclipse GSX 2G?



And while I'm at it (asking dumb questions) - I'm not a good mechanic at all but replacing this at least looks ez enough for a putz like me to do, or at least try.

The behavior my car has is pointing to this being the problem but I am going to try to measure the resistance stuff on it tomorrow to be more certain. This link below also mentions applying 6V to it to make sure the ISC motor is working:
DmTaLoN's Idle Speed Control Test/Fix Page!

But I'm thinking that *if* the resistance tests are OK that my ISC is OK and I don't need to do the 6 V motor test, and my problem must be something else. I say this because I am not having a problem that is always the same which I think would be the case if the ISC motor wasn't working, that is sometimes I have the very high idle problem, other times it is too low, and other times it is fine, so therefore I am assuming the ISC motor "works", it's just that something about one (or more) of the coils that must be bad, so I don't need to do a 6v test to test the ISC motor, I just need to check the coils - does that make sense? I may be totally misunderstanding something though.

Also let me ask, if I do try to replace the ISC (& I think it needs a new seal/o-ring when I do that too?) if I screw it up, can the car still run without an ISC?? At least enough for me to take to a mechanic to fix what I screw up??

Thanks a ton.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

<iframe width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/KibYz21IMA0?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[slipkid]

Thanks a lot for that awesome vid.

I'm afraid replacing it, with all that stuff about BISS & vacuum leaks etc, is beyond me but at the very least I think I can test it OK as far as the resistance part goes.

I just tried to test this - and I find it impossible to do.

How do you get at it to see what you are doing? Although I can take the top piece off and (almost) see the inside poles to test, there is a huge pipe type thing above it blocking direct access to it, so I can't see a thing in there to attach the tester to in order to test ANYTHING.

Do you take off that huge pipe thing that is blocking the access over top???? I am way to afraid to do something like that without knowing what I am getting into. (sigh)

Testing this is bad enough, how in the hell would you even get this OUT to replace it?????


-----

I just rewatched that video. The first step in that video says something like "getting stuff out of the way". That didn't even register with me, until now, since I just tried to get at this thing.

If anyone could kindly explain to me in detail what all the things are to take out, and HOW to do them, & the ramifications of doing this stuff like ("don't take out the gizmat until you first loosen the 3rd raptor nut, and you have to drain the radiator first, disconnect the battery, and you'll need batmo grease to reseal the flatop of the grincher etc), I would GREATLY appreciate it. I'm afraid I am not a mechanic and have no idea what I am doing. Normally I would just go to a mechanic and let someone else deal with all this but I'm broke and trying to save a few bucks. :-(

 

[Gysgt Guy]

Take the battery out for more room to work...

Remove the hose from the bov to the throttle body elbow.
The tb elbow has 4 bolts (10mm &12mm if I'm remembering right) and then it should just detach from the tb.

After that you should have plenty of room to work on testing it!

When reassembling, DO go buy a new gasket from the elbow to the tb. It's only a few bucks and it will take care of any potential leaks.

As far as your concerns for not feeling comfortable working on it...this is am excellent place to start...you only have a few screws and bolts to take off and not removing many parts that can be reinstalled incorrectly.

A good habit to get into is bagging your bolts/nuts/washers and labeling what they're for. When you start doing more advanced things it saves alot of headaches and tire kicking during reassembly.

 

[LiquidX]

Although you are not blocking off our FIAV, you can still follow my write up on it as it walks you through removing the throttle body. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/391977-free-fiav-block.html

I personally used a new unit from Rockauto.com. All the years are interchangeable and I believe the 1g years are cheaper on that site IIRC for some unknown reason. Use some grease on the new o ring when you install it [ICS] onto the TB.

 

[slipkid]

Thanks guys, that helps a lot.

I am still a bit paranoid about trying to do this...sorry for all the dumb questions. I have like zero margin for error with this - if I disable the car I am really screwed.

Sounds like I need to get a new gasket for the throttle pipe thing first b4 I attempt taking that off. Let me ask - if I don't get a new gasket & screw up what is there & put the pipe back on without a new gasket/seal, can I still drive the car, at least temporarily until I can get that gasket? Or will that damage something?

Hey, I have an additional question(s).

I just went to Rockauto, was looking at their ISC parts for this that come up for my car - they have 3 different ones there - Part # AC71T ($37), Part # IAC33 ($43), and Part # AC71 ($67). They don't explain the differences between any of these - anyone know?

And the rockauto site got me wondering. On the page above with those ISC parts they mention "Related Parts - Air Temperature Sensor". I don't know what that is, or where it is, or what it does, or anything (yet) but I wonder if it could have something to do with my car's idle problem.

Because I only seem to have this problem when it is hot outside. This started around last August but then went away over the Fall/Winter. It just started again this week because we had a horrible heatwave of like 85 degrees with ungodly humidity. During this time my idle speed sometimes was like 2000-3000rpms, other times as low as like 200 (whatever the lowest line on the gauge is), yet other times OK at around 800. Could this temperature sensor thing part be affected by hot outside air if the part is bad in some way?

1999 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE Air Temperature Sensor
More Information for AIRTEX / WELLS 5S1022

I still want to test my ISC as it seems the likely culprit but I wonder if this other thing has anything to do with it too?? Up to now I had never even heard of this thing..

 

[Gysgt Guy]

Is this your DD?

 

[slipkid]

Is this your DD?

I don't know - what does DD stand for? I have no idea.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I don't know - what does DD stand for? I have no idea.

"DD" = "Daily Driver" as in your primary vehicle.

You could probably remove your ISC without taking off all that other stuff, it just won't be as easy to get to. It's just two bolts holding it on to the side of the throttle body though. Also to answer your earlier question, your car will still run even with a jacked up ISC. That said, it is a very easy task and I doubt seriously that you will mess anything up taking it off.

 

[slipkid]

Yes it is my "DD". It is my only car. Without it I have no way of getting around. That's a big reason why I am afraid to do anything I don't have any experience with (plus I am not very good with this kind of stuff, I usually end up making things worse).

Deep breath - just watched my Flyers get creamed by the Boston Bruins. Heading outside now to try to see if I can test the ISC, take all this stuff apart to get to it. If I don't do this now I won't get a chance again probably until next weekend since I am busy tomorrow and it is supposed to be raining like all next week.

 

[Gysgt Guy]

Getting the battery, hose and tb elbow should take about 5 min to take off...just dive in!!!

 

[igotawdpsi]

I can remember when my first ISC went out and having to deal with it not working. I didn't have the money to fix it and it was very expensive to replace. But that was a very long time ago.

 

[slipkid]

Well, I was able to test it (today - Monday) - was getting too dark Sat. night so I decided to wait.

I found just taking the battery out gave me enough clearance in lean in under there and get to the pins to test, so I didn't have to remove that elbow joint thing, which I was afraid to do.

The resistance all appears to be OK (all of the tests, 1-2, 2-3, 4-5, 5-6) came out at around 39.5 ohms. I think that means I have a "newer" type ISC (the original ones are supposed to be around 28-32? but I read newer style is around 40). So I must have had this replaced already at some time or other in the past (I'll have to double check my records, although maybe it was called something else by the mechanic, or I have no record of it)??????

Either that or I have an older one that SHOULD be testing around 33, but all the tests are coming out at 39.5 - so it is bad?? Is that even possible????

Also, something to mention in case anyone else inexperienced like me is thinking of doing this - I did NOT know this from any of the threads or how to's on the 'net, but I just learned this yesterday thx to the guy who posted the video on youtube above (he responded to a question I wrote about "getting stuff out of the way") - that in order to test the resistance stuff across the pins with the ISC in the car you HAVE to disconnect the car battery first anyway!!! I did NOT know this, and if the battery wasn't blocking my access, I would have tested it with the battery hooked up. Doh!


Assuming the resistance is looking OK, I understand that that doesn't necessarily mean that my ISC is OK, but I can't do the other test thing about applying 6v & seeing if the motor thing seems to move right - I don't have any proper wires with alligator clips on the ends to attach to the pins, and just trying to attach bare wires won't work, I can't get them on secure enough - and I suspect I would not even know if doing that test if I could tell that the ISC was making the proper motor "noise" anyways.

Not sure what I will do next. I guess I could just assume that this ISC is bad motor-wise (?) and try replacing it with another ISC and see what happens but I don't know if it is worth doing that - with my luck that would be a waste of time/money. The problem could most likely be something else altogether. I was hoping the simple resistance test would make it clear what I need to do but it hasn't worked out that way. I've read many other threads about this discussing a multitide of other possible causes of idle problems but all that stuff is way beyond my capabilities. Maybe I will just live with this hoping nothing too bad happens, until I can eventually get some $$ to go to a mechanic.

Again - the problem I have is that when it is hot outside my idle speed quite often goes way up to like anywheres from 2000-3000, and other times as low as like 200, yet other times is OK at 800. When it is not hot out it is usually at 800, although I noticed yesterday, when it was about 70 degrees out, it was sometimes at around 1500. This all started last August, but went away in September, and I haven't noticed it again until a heatwave last week.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

This is how to test the ISC motor, it is very, very easy: Pull the ISC again (those 2 bolts) but leave it plugged in this time. Have a friend (or anyone really) turn the key to the from "off" to the "on" position, leave it there for a few seconds and then turn it back off and repeat. If it is working it will twist in and out like in this video. If it doesn't then you know its garbage. (Obviously you will have to have the battery connected for this test)

<iframe width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/l7R3gf7SiAo?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

The old style ISC has a metal case with a brown cap while the newer revised style has an all black case. Here is a comparison, old on the left and new on the right:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[slipkid]

Thanks for that video - very interesting; maybe I will try that next once I can get someone else around to assist.

Note that I have NOT pulled my ISC out yet already though - I was able reach the poles for the resistance test by just taking the battery out. I'm not sure I can get the ISC out unless I take off that throttle elbow thing in addition to the removing the battery, which I am trying to avoid unless I know the ISC is bad & have to replace it. Maybe I will try going to a junkyard & see if I can find get an ISC first and just replace it.....plus "practicing" on a junkyard car getting one out will make me less paranoid removing that elbow thing and taking my own ISC out.

 

[slipkid]

Well it's taken me over a year to get back to this.

The hot weather (and the return of my fast idle problems) motivated me to tackle this again.

I replaced the ISC with a new one - no effect. Still have the exact same problem. (And yeah it was ez to do like you folks said....had plenty of room to work with just the battery out).

Again (actually I forget if I detailed my problem in this thread) the problem that I have is that ONLY IN THE SUMMERTIME WHEN IT IS HOT OUT my car usually idles WAY TOO FAST. It is perfect all the time EXCEPT WHEN IT IS HOT OUT. From around September to May I have virtually no problems. Then the dog days of summer come and the idle goes on the fritz.

During the problem the idle doesn't go all over the place typical of a bad ISC. It just holds steady too high. Sometimes 1500. Sometimes 2500. Sometimes 2000, etc.

Sometimes it is OK then I stop at a traffic light & it is too high. Then next light it is OK.

Almost every time that it IS OK, if I turn off the engine then turn it back on then it is TOO HIGH. Like driving for a quick errand to the local supermarket, the idle might be fine all the way there, but when I come back and startup the car, it is like 2000 rpms.

Any hints/clues what else is going on??? Because it is most definitely not the ISC per se.

Thanks guys.