smoke after shifts, bad turbo, valves, or rings?

[2DaTrakNow]

When i first got my car, it never smoked or anything like that. Now, when i get on it from about 1st to 3rd, then let off it rolls out smoke. The color is kind of a blue/light color. Since i have bought the car, the only things that i can think of that are causing the smoke is that i did a boost leak test, and may have pushed in too much air, therefore causing a turbo seal to blow, a ring to crack, or something with the valves. Any information would be great!

And it only does it when i let off, right after the engine is pressurized. Also, i have to add some oil every once in a while, but not much at all.

 

[andymoraitis]

Smoke on deceleration is usually valve/valve stem seal related. As you mentioned, it could also be the turbo seals and you can check by removing the intake and feeling for in and out and side to side shaft play. Anything excessive will allow oil to pass by and burn in the exhaust system. If shaft play is minimal, I'd consider the valve train to be the culprit, however to cover all bases, I'd encourage you to run a compression test with the motor hot to rule out any other contributing factors.

Let us know what you find,

Andy

 

[blackGSX2g]

I agree with Andy. Do a wet/dry compression test with the motor warm and let us know the results. If they are fairly close to each other (wet/dry and the cyls are fairly even) then I would suspect a turbo or valve seals.

If you can pull the head and re-install it yourself, a head rebuild (valve grind, resurface, new seals, etc) should run you about $200.

 

[thilaksharma]

i had a similar problem
but it was my turbo
after shifts i will get white smoke
white smoke is most probably oil mixture with air
do u notice misfiring because if its oil ## plugs will slowly get spoilt

 

[funniegus]

White smoke is anti freeze burning! Blue smoke is oil burning.

 

[Siral3x]

1.Compression test;
2.Chk turbo for shaft play just in case;
You stated you add oil once in a while...most likely you got bad rings , or valve seals.
If a turbo blows a seal you will notice it right away(it will smoke a lot) , and even if the turbo has a small oil leak you will notice it during acc, not deceleration.
You should be able to tell if your turbo is going bad anyway....it's all in the driver and how you 'feel' your car ...I could tell my T25 was gonna die 2 weeks ahead and I had a 28 upgrade ready by the time it did

 

[Siral3x]

PS: Matt let me know where you got your head done for $200, UP here they wanna charge me $75/h

 

[blackGSX2g]

PS: Matt let me know where you got your head done for $200, UP here they wanna charge me $75/h

The first place was a machine shop behind NAPA here in Kalamazoo. It was like $212 out the door.

NAPA AUTO PARTS
Ridge Auto Parts (269) 342-0274
1212 King Hwy Kalamazoo MI, 49001

The machinist's name is Steve and he's done many 4g63's around here; I've actually got a buddy's motor out there getting done right now.

I've also had my race head done at a place on the other side of town, they said around $200 for a basic rebuild as well. I can't give an exact price as my bill included grinding oversized valves.

For $75/hour did you ask how many hours the job called for? I have no clue how many hours a shop charges, but I've changed out valve seals in under 2 hours. If they end up charging 3 hours of labor, $225 is still not a bad deal.

 

[95talon_in_ma]

I've never done it on the DSM motors, but it still should apply, on other motors you don't have to pull the head. You can do it two ways. The right way is to buy the spark plug adatpter that you fill the cylinder with compressed air, just a few pounds, this will hold the valve up. Or you take a "Clean" piece of nylon rope and put it in the spark plug hole and fill the cylinder with it. Once the valve is held up in that cylinder, you can pull the spring out (Spring compressor tool is about $20), and get replace the seal. The seals themself are on probably $20 or so.
Worse case scenario you drop a valve and you have to pull the head anyway.
I would suggst this unless you need a complete valve job. But it's really simple and allot less expensive.

 

[Fabian972]

Before you go rip your head apart buy a can of engine restore all of $8.00 pour into the oil then put 800 miles or so on your car see if the smoke stops did for me ps i had 170k on my motor

 

[2DaTrakNow]

Alright, well the first thing that i did was checked my plugs. Every plug looked almost identicle, and had no signs of oil on them, and hardly any carbon build up. I then went ahead and did a compression test, and they were all inbetween 120 and 125. But, the tester that i was using is kind of old, and i have no idea how accurate or precise it is. However though, tomorrow i am going to buy another one, and re-test. Also, i will check for shaft play tomorrow as well.

I will also do what Fabian972 says, and buy a bottle of sea foam to dump in my oil right before i change it and see if that helps. Or should i put it in after the change?

Before you go rip your head apart buy a can of engine restore all of $8.00 pour into the oil then put 800 miles or so on your car see if the smoke stops did for me ps i had 170k on my motor

 

[Fabian972]

Alright, well the first thing that i did was checked my plugs. Every plug looked almost identicle, and had no signs of oil on them, and hardly any carbon build up. I then went ahead and did a compression test, and they were all inbetween 120 and 125. But, the tester that i was using is kind of old, and i have no idea how accurate or precise it is. However though, tomorrow i am going to buy another one, and re-test. Also, i will check for shaft play tomorrow as well.

I will also do what Fabian972 says, and buy a bottle of sea foam to dump in my oil right before i change it and see if that helps. Or should i put it in after the change?

No don't use seafoam it's a great product but it's not what you need get engine restore or similar to it ...it will help re-seal your valve's and help your compression check out there website seafoam is more to clean the carbon build up .

http://www.ametech.co.uk/shopping/default.asp

 

[SteveR6]

I'm going through the same thing right now, let me know what you find out, in my case I have LOTS of in and out shaft play so I just bought another turbo. Hoping and praying once it goes on the smoking stops. My plugs came out clean as well. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=235887

 

[2DaTrakNow]

No don't use seafoam it's a great product but it's not what you need get engine restore or similar to it ...it will help re-seal your valve's and help your compression check out there website seafoam is more to clean the carbon build up .

http://www.ametech.co.uk/shopping/default.asp

Ahh..duh! I dont know what i was thinking. I just changed my oil about 200 miles ago though, so don't i have to wait quite a wile before i put the stuff in?