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Resolved Smoke after rebuild block

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Ok
There’s nothing under the oil cap now which I’m super glad to see. Going to grab some fuel later today or tomorrow and take it for a longer drive. I didn’t want to go too far since there’s a lot I did to the car but think all is good now to hit the road. I will update afterwards. Thanks all for the input!!
I’d be worried about those compression numbers. The service limit on the 4g63 with stock compression is 120 psi .... This engine is below service limits on a rebuilt motor. Keep digging .... something isn’t right. How long did you crank the motor over when doing compression ?
 
Ok

I’d be worried about those compression numbers. The service limit on the 4g63 with stock compression is 120 psi .... This engine is below service limits on a rebuilt motor. Keep digging .... something isn’t right. How long did you crank the motor over when doing compression ?

I’d say about 10 times until the pressure stopped going up
 
Hmm, you mean the wiring going to them? It should cause a misfire scenario if anything, which in turn might lead to some blackish smoke from the improperly burnt fuel but I wouldn't think it'd make it smoke white, nor would it mess with your compression numbers.
 
Hmm, you mean the wiring going to them? It should cause a misfire scenario if anything, which in turn might lead to some blackish smoke from the improperly burnt fuel but I wouldn't think it'd make it smoke white, nor would it mess with your compression numbers.

Yes I had the connectors swapped. It will spray at the wrong time when the intake valve is closed. So during the intake stroke, there’s still fuel being pulled in and that’s why it won’t misfire. Thought about this all night. Can’t wait to start it again today.

I didn’t notice the injector pig tail color at first because of lighting.

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Nope. That wasn’t it either.

Correcting the wires helped a lot but it still smokes when it revs. I’ll be removing the head

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Took it for a nice long ride and it quit smoking. Going to let it cool down completely and check again. No smoke at idle at all right now even if I rev it. Nothing on the oil cap either

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Yep, all it really needed was a nice long drive to get everything settled and get rid of that condensation both inside the crankcase and inside the exhaust system. Glad it wasn't anything actually broken.

Give it a good rippin' for us after you break it in will ya Tony? :sneaky::hellyeah:
 
Yep, all it really needed was a nice long drive to get everything settled and get rid of that condensation both inside the crankcase and inside the exhaust system. Glad it wasn't anything actually broken.

Give it a good rippin' for us after you break it in will ya Tony? :sneaky::hellyeah:

Yeah Stefan, me too man! Oh she’s getting ripped on for sure LOL
 
I switched the drain since it was almost touching my dump. I thought it was ok but do you think this is backing up the drain? It’s fed from OFH

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That drain is crap. Replace that rubber hose garbage with a full-metal 2G drain and slot the two upper holes to fit the MHI bearing housing.
 
That drain is crap. Replace that rubber hose garbage with a full-metal 2G drain and slot the two upper holes to fit the MHI bearing housing.

Thought it would be alright since fp sells theirs this way. Is it crap because of area that’s bent?
 
I had the same problem when I rebuilt my motor. It was smoking white for a little but the more I drove the car the more the white smoke went away till it was all gone. Once you rebuild the motor you need to make sure you seat the rings especially if the block had work done to it. Some people believe in a soft break in and some say drive it like you normally would, good luck.
 
Thought it would be alright since fp sells theirs this way.
The FP drain should never have been produced, so it's a bit of a bad example to model a "proper" oil drain from. Not only is it full-rubber, it's only 3/8" I.D. at the fittings.
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Is it crap because of area that’s bent?
Correct.

Unless they're made with a sturdy, reinforced hose of some sort that can absolutely never kink- any bend in the oil drain line should be done with metal tubing or fittings so there's no chance a kink can happen. Yours appears to be kinked already or starting to kink, and it's at the absolute worst place possible when you consider how the engine sits in the bay putting the bend of the drain at the lowest point:

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So I'll say there's a pretty good chance your drain is what is causing the phantom smoke.
 
The FP drain should never have been produced, so it's a bit of a bad example to model a "proper" oil drain from. Not only is it full-rubber, it's only 3/8" I.D. at the fittings.
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Correct.

Unless they're made with a sturdy, reinforced hose of some sort that can absolutely never kink- any bend in the oil drain line should be done with metal tubing or fittings so there's no chance a kink can happen. Yours appears to be kinked already or starting to kink, and it's at the absolute worst place possible when you consider how the engine sits in the bay putting the bend of the drain at the lowest point:

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So I'll say there's a pretty good chance your drain is what is causing the smoke.

Ok. I still have the section I cut so I’ll cut the bent section and put it back on. Can I put some miles on it, or do you think I should do it now?
 
If the turbo is indeed leaking, you want to address that right away...otherwise the more time you put on it with oil bypassing the sealing rings the less the odds will be in your favor that the problem will correct itself without the turbo being rebuilt once you do fix the drain.
 
If the turbo is indeed leaking, you want to address that right away...otherwise the more time you put on it with oil bypassing the sealing rings the less the odds will be in your favor that the problem will correct itself without the turbo being rebuilt once you do fix the drain.

I’ll fix it then. Thanks Jus!!
 
It's always best to fix the obvious issues first then work on other things which may arise or result. If you have a giant all-metal drain but the turbo is still showing signs of leakage even after it's serviced then you need to look at the PCV system...if the PCV system is ample for the application, then you need to look into why the PCV system is being over-worked (valve seals, excessive blow-by, etc).

But if any one or all of those things need attention, they're going to show themselves one way or another. If you have a little valve seal leakage but are still on the tiny stock PCV lines and an undersized rubber drain that may be a little kinked, you'll be chasing your tail wondering why the turbo is always showing smoke or oil leakage.
 
It's always best to fix the obvious issues first then work on other things which may arise or result. If you have a giant all-metal drain but the turbo is still showing signs of leakage even after it's serviced then you need to look at the PCV system...if the PCV system is ample for the application, then you need to look into why the PCV system is being over-worked (valve seals, excessive blow-by, etc).

But if any one or all of those things need attention, they're going to show themselves one way or another. If you have a little valve seal leakage but are still on the tiny stock PCV lines and an undersized rubber drain that may be a little kinked, you'll be chasing your tail wondering why the turbo is always showing smoke or oil leakage.

Luckily I only have idle time and 50 miles since the built (this includes the rubber drain). I don’t think anything happened to the turbo since the charge pipes and downpipe are both clean.
 
Curious, Did you ever try another compression tester or was there any improvement in your results after the smoke stopped?

I haven’t. Been tracking stalling issue so got a set of injectors last week and degreed my cams. I’ll be putting some miles on it once the weather/roads clear up.
 
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