smart dsm experts help

[95gstclipse]

Here's my problem:my car is running really rich causing my spark plugs I put in foul out in 15 minutes of running.Car also runs a lil rough at idle but smooths out when I rev it.I have a 95tsi ecu in the car hsright now

 

[95gstclipse]

Do you have anyway to monitor data on the car while it is running? Not everyone has access to a livestream scanner, but thought I would ask.

If you do check the MAF (mass air flow sensor) If it is not responding or is faulty then it can and will cause the car to run like ass and can cause it to dump entirely too much fuel based off false readings. I know this because I too had a car that sat for forever and ended up replacing the MAF after a similar issue.

Not sounding like an ass but its located directly behind the passenger side headlight on the 2g and has a wide connector hooking into it. Will also have piping from the filterbox down to the intake side of your babyeater (turbo)

PS and just because IM bored go and snap some pics of the engine bay, I might see something that screams red flag!

haha yea it could be my maf to but when i unplug it the radiator fans turn off(i have no idea why there even on when i first start the car ) its weird

 

[rush2252]

haha yea it could be my maf to but when i unplug it the radiator fans turn off(i have no idea why there even on when i first start the car ) its weird

double check the coolant sensors. There are two on the 2g (I believe) One runs the fans and one sends signal to the temp gauge. You might have some electrical problems... WTF

Either that or the ECU. Time to start ruling out issues. Start with the ECU. Then report back. Then the MaF, report back... Then we will go from there.

And to clarify your last post^ You have the MAF plugged in, but whenever you unplugged it the fans stop running?

 

[95gstclipse]

yea the maf is plugged in but when i unplug it the fans turn off.Also i changed the temp sensor on the back of the coolant tube didnt know there was another one could that make it run rich two?

 

[rush2252]

yea the maf is plugged in but when i unplug it the fans turn off.Also i changed the temp sensor on the back of the coolant tube didnt know there was another one could that make it run rich two?

Now you have me doubting my memory. I havent messed with the turbo car in awhile. I just sold it after it sat for a year, but yes double check the thermostat housing I believe there are two sensors

 

[95gstclipse]

Now you have me doubting my memory. I havent messed with the turbo car in awhile. I just sold it after it sat for a year, but yes double check the thermostat housing I believe there are two sensors

hmm ill look into that i really have a feeling it's the fpr that's my issue.

 

[rush2252]

hmm ill look into that i really have a feeling it's the fpr that's my issue.

That was my first guess. If you have strange things going on with the cooling fans then I would look into that as well.

 

[95gstclipse]

That was my first guess. If you have strange things going on with the cooling fans then I would look into that as well.

Yea im sure its a wiring problem thanks for all your help ill keep you posted

 

[95gstclipse]

Here's the update :I've Changed the apr car has definitely smoothed out and is not running as rich anymore(thanks rush2522) ;now when I rev it high and let the rpm drop the car seems to not catch itself to idle and dies slowly but b4 it dies the battery light comes on and srs light ,they even stay on while it idles to weird any idea.

 

[gorf]

could be your bis setting - idle air fuel mixture - do some searches for the correct way to set it.
Basically it is a set screw on your throttle body, you can just turn it in a little to see if it helps. HOWEVER there IS a correct way to set it.

 

[95gstclipse]

could be your bis setting - idle air fuel mixture - do some searches for the correct way to set it.
Basically it is a set screw on your throttle body, you can just turn it in a little to see if it helps. HOWEVER there IS a correct way to set it.

Well I tried to set it but the screw itts all the way in I can't seem to unscrewing it.Also what about my battery light and srs light coming on

 

[gorf]

Battery and SRS light is most likely a bad alternator. I just went through that myself.

 

[95gstclipse]

I tested the alternator while the car was running it was good had 14volts and the battery was good to when I tested it but if I gotta keep jump starting the car so either the battery or alternator is bad and causing my problem idk which one though I feel like giving up .

 

[rush2252]

I tested the alternator while the car was running it was good had 14volts and the battery was good to when I tested it but if I gotta keep jump starting the car so either the battery or alternator is bad and causing my problem idk which one though I feel like giving up .

The battery light and SRS light will come on because the car isnt idling high enough to provide the voltage (from the alternator turning) to keep everything happy. This is perfectly normal. The BISS screws are often times corroded, make sure the throttle cable bracket is tight and doesnt have retarded amounts of slack, this is a way to adjust the idle up too until you can get another throttle body. Those BISS screws on the 2g are plastic and sometimes they are permanently el stucko!

 

[95gstclipse]

The battery light and SRS light will come on because the car isnt idling high enough to provide the voltage (from the alternator turning) to keep everything happy. This is perfectly normal. The BISS screws are often times corroded, make sure the throttle cable bracket is tight and doesnt have retarded amounts of slack, this is a way to adjust the idle up too until you can get another throttle body. Those BISS screws on the 2g are plastic and sometimes they are permanently el stucko!

Well the car idles at 1000-900 rpm range so thats pretty normal range just the srs and battery light is on.THe car sounds a little rough too and dies right after I rev it once and I have to keep jump starting it seems like the battery wont hold a charge.

 

[gorf]

Pull the alternator and take it to advance auto, or who ever you have close by. They have test stand and will tell you if it is bad.

When mine went, I did all of the test procedures in my Haynes manual and it did not show a problem. On the test stand it would put out 14 volts and then nothing, put out 14 v then nothing. Replaced the alternator and problem went away.

 

[95gstclipse]

Pull the alternator and take it to advance auto, or who ever you have close by. They have test stand and will tell you if it is bad.

When mine went, I did all of the test procedures in my Haynes manual and it did not show a problem. On the test stand it would put out 14 volts and then nothing, put out 14 v then nothing. Replaced the alternator and problem went away.

Would a faulty alternator cause the symptoms I'm having?

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

With the car idling, what is your current voltage output? Still 14v? It sure does sound like a bad alternator to me.

Would a faulty alternator cause the symptoms I'm having?

Yeah, sure it would.

 

[95gstclipse]

With the car idling, what is your current voltage output? Still 14v? It sure does sound like a bad alternator to me.



Yeah, sure it would.

Yea I hope because I've replaced every single thing on this car 2600 in work to be exact .

 

[FUNWHEELDRIVE]

Since its dying after you rev it, are you SURE your BOV isnt vented?
How did you check for boost leaks?? boost leak tester?

Did you put an Adjustable fpr in? or just a new fpr? You said earlier you switched your injectors 'back' to stock.... so they werent stock before, could have a 255 fuel pump therefore increasing your fuel pressure. You might need an afpr.

 

[95gstclipse]

Since its dying after you rev it, are you SURE your BOV isnt vented?
How did you check for boost leaks?? boost leak tester?

Did you put an Adjustable fpr in? or just a new fpr? You said earlier you switched your injectors 'back' to stock.... so they werent stock before, could have a 255 fuel pump therefore increasing your fuel pressure. You might need an afpr.

I just put a regular fpr in the injectors I had in before two were stuck open so I bought new stock one's in.I did a boost leak test and there are none and my bov is not vented and the fuel pump is stock.

 

[rush2252]

IF its idling that high then check the alternator and battery BOTH. I had a yellowtop in my NT and it sat for about a year not being driven. I went to start it up and it was dead. Once I jumped it the battery light came on.

I figured it was the alternator... no such luck I had them both tested ended up being the more expensive $189.99 battery. Then some two years later... last week to be exact, Oklahoma got hit by a massive winterstorm front. I drove my car to work and parked it. The battery I replaced the yellowtop with was only a year and a half old.

Car was dead after being snowed in for two days went to jump it. Same thing, except this time the light would go off after driving for a ways until I turned on my lights blower, radio etc. So I drove back to oreillys and had the battery tested. It was shot. So it could be alternator or battery. I would check them both before replacing one or the other.

and.. $2600 is still better than a $300 a month car payment.

 

[95gstclipse]

IF its idling that high then check the alternator and battery BOTH. I had a yellowtop in my NT and it sat for about a year not being driven. I went to start it up and it was dead. Once I jumped it the battery light came on.

I figured it was the alternator... no such luck I had them both tested ended up being the more expensive $189.99 battery. Then some two years later... last week to be exact, Oklahoma got hit by a massive winterstorm front. I drove my car to work and parked it. The battery I replaced the yellowtop with was only a year and a half old.

Car was dead after being snowed in for two days went to jump it. Same thing, except this time the light would go off after driving for a ways until I turned on my lights blower, radio etc. So I drove back to oreillys and had the battery tested. It was shot. So it could be alternator or battery. I would check them both before replacing one or the other.

and.. $2600 is still better than a $300 a month car payment.[/

I just hate the fact my car dies after revving it I'm also gonna change the o2 sensor since its still running rich.

 

[rush2252]

IF its idling that high then check the alternator and battery BOTH. I had a yellowtop in my NT and it sat for about a year not being driven. I went to start it up and it was dead. Once I jumped it the battery light came on.

I figured it was the alternator... no such luck I had them both tested ended up being the more expensive $189.99 battery. Then some two years later... last week to be exact, Oklahoma got hit by a massive winterstorm front. I drove my car to work and parked it. The battery I replaced the yellowtop with was only a year and a half old.

Car was dead after being snowed in for two days went to jump it. Same thing, except this time the light would go off after driving for a ways until I turned on my lights blower, radio etc. So I drove back to oreillys and had the battery tested. It was shot. So it could be alternator or battery. I would check them both before replacing one or the other.

and.. $2600 is still better than a $300 a month car payment.[/

I just hate the fact my car dies after revving it I'm also gonna change the o2 sensor since its still running rich.

IF you have the factory FPR it shouldnt matter if you are running a 255. The pressure is still the same and I believe the 255's volume is ok on the 440s'

 

[95gstclipse]

Update pulled check engine light codes got p0110 iat circuit malfunction, p0100 maf sensor circuit malfunction ,p10105 map sensor circuit malfunction .I've changed them both same problem. I'm guessing there is a short some where in the wire harness itself causing the ecu to get the wrong signal or no signal at all from the iat and maf.Is it cheaper to have the shop trace the bad or shorted wire and replace them or to buy a new harness and have them put it in?

 

[rush2252]

Update pulled check engine light codes got p0110 iat circuit malfunction, p0100 maf sensor circuit malfunction ,p10105 map sensor circuit malfunction .I've changed them both same problem. I'm guessing there is a short some where in the wire harness itself causing the ecu to get the wrong signal or no signal at all from the iat and maf.Is it cheaper to have the shop trace the bad or shorted wire and replace them or to buy a new harness and have them put it in?

I would suspect an ECU problem before I would suspect a wiring harness, unless someone has hacked around on it. Also just because its throwing a code doesnt mean the sensor is bad or the problem.

If the MAP sensor is bad or not reading correctly it could be vacuum/boost leak depending on if the throttle plate is open or closed. If the leak is big enough to make the idle surge then there is a possibility I could see it affecting the MAF reading..

The best way to diagnose this would be a live data stream scanner or data logger. However, not everyone has access to those and most shops charge a decent amount to hook a car up and diagnose it. If it were me I would get some other opinions before throwing parts at it.

EDIT: I recommended earlier in this thread to loosen the throttle cable bracket and ever so slightly move it to tighten the slack on the cable. I had to do this until my new throttle body came in, because the BISS screw wouldnt come out and the car was dying due to low idle. If you are careful enough you can slightly crack the throttle plate and this should keep it from dying IF the biss screw is the issue.