The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Slim fan wiring... Driving me nuts!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

SasaniFab

Proven Member
2,432
788
Dec 1, 2013
Mexico, Connecticut
Ive searched and searched and everything ive tried hasn't worked and its driving me crazy. So I had to remove the oem fan because of the turbo setup etc. I wired the fans using this diagram and its not working. The fans run when connected to 12v, I replaced the thermo switch. I am getting 12v when the ignition is turned on to the green wiring going to the thermo switch. When I bridge the thermo switch plug I hear clicking in the factory relay. The passenger side oem plug has 4 wires, 2 wires connect to the thermo switch, one green and one black. The other two are blue and black I believe. I don't wanna use a rocker switch and want to use the factory therm switch. Any ideas would be helpfull
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
the fan circuit already has a 30A fusible link and relay. there shouldn't be any reason why you would need to add another relay if you are replacing the stock fan for a slim one. your new fan maybe pulls 15A max, its probably closer to 10A.

this diagram is for 90/91 i don't know what year your car is but other years should be similar.
this shows
pin2 blue/red wire = (+) to fan
pin4 blue/black wire = (-) to ground
i would connect these wires to your new fan
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
If this is a 1g, DustyB's factory diagram is correct. Your wiring is also correct (OP), however, I would move your aftermarket relay pin 85 to a chassis ground, rather than using the factory ground in the harness (just a personal preference).

What I suspect is going on is that you've also removed or replaced the factory AC fan, on the driver side, as well. -If that's true, you've inadvertently interrupted the factory wiring's resistor that is responsible for generating the Hi/Lo fan speeds. Since most aftermarket fans do not flow nearly as much as the factory fans, you're better off using them in full (high) speed only. -In order to do this (and to restore the disconnect in the factory circuit), you must reconnect pins #1 & 2 on the AC fan harness together, after eliminating the resistor on the AC fan. You can then use Pins #3 & 4 for a driver side fan, if you wish, on the same AC fan harness.
 
Passenger side (radiator fan).
 
I feel like an idiot guys, because I was getting 12v at the thermoswitch I never checked the fuse on the battery terminal. I figured wrong. Fuse was blown, my fan operates perfectly now. Thanks for your help .
 
Depending on the brand of fan you are using you may want to use the stock power wire as a signal for a relay with heavier wiring powering the fan.

I have seen spal fans melt stock wiring.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top