ECMlink Slight Knock During Light and Full Throttle

[doubleclutch]

1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks?
Yes

2). Verified mechanical timing?
Yes

3). Verified base timing?
No

4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil: Stock
Wire brand and Age: NGK 3 years
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: BPR7es; .29

5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1:
Cylinder 2:
Cylinder 3:
Cylinder 4:

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch: Yes
Throttle Cable: Yes
TPS: Yes
BISS: yes

7). Compression ratio
Stock

8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
No

9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
No

10). Electrical system
Car off (not running):
Car running:

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure: Stock
Injector Size (cc/min): PTE 780cc/min

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand: Innocate Lc-2
Calibration Date: April 2016

13). Type of fuel
Type: Premium
Percent of Ethanol: up to 10%

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos: Yes


Logs Attached.

I am getting small amounts of knock <3 degrees in a couple of spots. One is while on light throttle (~25%) in low rpm ranges (~2k-3k). I am not sure if it is real knock or not, but it happens often and I would like to reduce or eliminate it. I understand the principle of tuning it out at WOT, but not sure how to handle closed loop issues.

The second issue is small amounts of knock at WOT in the lower RPM ranges. I see up to 3 degrees. I know I should add fuel or pull timing. However, my AFRs are not even close to my current targets. I am at ~15 on the wideband and the map is asking for 12.5. Do I simply throw more fuel at it? Is it an issue with MAF adjustment? At higher RPMS I don't have issues, but these always seem to pop up early in the pull and the wideband is usually indicating lean.

Thanks for the help!

 

[boostdawd]

For cruise knock I would change the knock sensor to ignore knock <3*. U can also try what biglady112 suggested on another forum that has eliminated a big chunk of random knock issues for me. Basically remove the knock sensor and fill the hole with RTV and the flat part of the sensor ad well. Put back in and torque to 17 ftlbs. If your afrs are way outta wack then recheck your global fuel settings. If all is well there then u need to mess with the maf sliders.

 

[ThunderChild]

I have been having the same issue @doubleclutch and no amount of tuning has changed it. Im thinking mine is due to engine noise/vibrations at low rpms, since I see no knock at higher rpms.

Im going to attempt the rtv trick as @biglady112 originally said and @boostdawd reiterated, and if that doesn't work, another new sensor. If i get positive results, ill report back and let you know.

You definitely need to get your afrs in check, so start checking your fuel trims and maf settings in your trouble areas.

 

[doubleclutch]

For cruise knock I would change the knock sensor to ignore knock <3*. U can also try what biglady112 suggested on another forum that has eliminated a big chunk of random knock issues for me. Basically remove the knock sensor and fill the hole with RTV and the flat part of the sensor ad well. Put back in and torque to 17 ftlbs. If your afrs are way outta wack then recheck your global fuel settings. If all is well there then u need to mess with the maf sliders.

Global fuel is right. I never did the WB factor adjustment. Shame on me. I just the log attache to this post and made changes shown in the settings attached to this post. I am headed in the right direction right? Wanted to double check before i screwed something up. Although to be fair I am adding fuel across the board not leaning it out so it should be safe.

As far as the knock sensor is concerned, I may try that. I hate having that light blip on all the time.

I have been having the same issue @doubleclutch and no amount of tuning has changed it. Im thinking mine is due to engine noise/vibrations at low rpms, since I see no knock at higher rpms.

Im going to attempt the rtv trick as @biglady112 originally said and @boostdawd reiterated, and if that doesn't work, another new sensor. If i get positive results, ill report back and let you know.

You definitely need to get your afrs in check, so start checking your fuel trims and maf settings in your trouble areas.

Let me know how how it works. 2 success stories are always better than one.

 

[doubleclutch]

adjusted the wb factor, needs some more work but knock is gone.

I did notice that my wideband values in link does not agree with what the guage says. They are off by as much as 1.0 at points. Any idea how this is possible? I even tried to make a linear wideband channel using the lc-2 default inputs and it was still off.

Thoughts?

 

[boostdawd]

What brand wideband do u have? AEM? If so follow gofers tutorial on youtube.

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[19gsx91]

Where do you have your WB grounded to? My MTX-L is off, what it reads on the gauge vs what it logs in link. Having an innovate is nice because you can download logworks and manually adjust the voltage so they match, there is a bit of a trick to get it right though.

 

[doubleclutch]

Where do you have your WB grounded to? My MTX-L is off, what it reads on the gauge vs what it logs in link. Having an innovate is nice because you can download logworks and manually adjust the voltage so they match, there is a bit of a trick to get it right though.

If i remember right, i grounded it through the cigar lighter. How did you fix your mtx-l? i figured i moght have to go in log works but need a serial to usb first so I don't know anything about it.

What brand wideband do u have? AEM? If so follow gofers tutorial on youtube.

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I have an innovate lc-2. All he is doing is using the linear scaling wideband and tricking it to reading what he wants. I feel like as smart as link is and a smart as my gauge is I shouldnt have to do that although it may be the easiest.

 

[19gsx91]

I haven't fixed it yet to be honest I don't have a serial to usb either. I just know that that's supposed to fix it. Once I find that damned cable I'll have it logging correctly for the spring.

 

[Mello]

First try running your WB controller ground directly to battery negative. Easiest to try first & should make it read accurate.

 

[doubleclutch]

So I used the Linear Wideband Option and made it right, but I don't think this is the best solution, sure it is right at those two points, but it will be off most other places. I will have to try moving the ground, but that is in no way an easy task. I will require ripping ot the interior and some rewiring.

Also, the LMprogrammer for the LC-2 shifts bth the output and what the gauge reads. Basically, I have some sort of offset that is saying my voltage is hgher in ECMlink than what the gauge sees. IF i tell the gauge to shift the output of the signal sent out it shifts what the gauge reads as well and the offset is still there. What I am getting at is this would only really help if for some reason your gauge read different voltages for stoich then what innovate loads from the factory.