six bolt swap... bell housing to block ? *SEARCHED*

[flat four]

It seems that the six bolt narrow block has only two holes that matched up with my 2g AWD trans. Are those two bolts (on the top of the bellhousing) adeqaute to withstand the torsional force of the motor? Or is there something I need to ad to make the connection stronger?

 

[donniekak]

The other 2 holes, with the dowels should have lined up.

 

[flat four]

The other 2 holes, with the dowels should have lined up.

they line up, but there are no dowels in the block.

 

[miguelmcv]

Then some one took them off.
There should be 2 dowels. One on one end and the other at the other end.

There are 2 bolts on the top of the tranny to bolt it on. and there are 2 more bolts on each end, where the dowels are.

Here is a pic of the engine with the 4 holes (circled on red) from where tranny is bolt on.

 

[flat four]

I know all of this, but what should I do? should i try to thread something through the dowel pin holes, or will it be okay with just the top bolts? Please help me, my motor needs to go in TODAY!

 

[e85_4g63]

Do it right, or do it twice.. Your pick!

 

[donniekak]

I know all of this, but what should I do? should i try to thread something through the dowel pin holes, or will it be okay with just the top bolts? Please help me, my motor needs to go in TODAY!

You need 4 bolts, and both dowels, or your transmission will break. The bolts on the front and back go through the dowels, the rear is a smaller bolt than the rest, and goes in through the engine side. With just the top 2 bolts your clutch wont work correctly either.

 

[nuclearr]

Do you still have the old engine you can use those dowel pins if they are carefully removed.

 

[flat four]

You need 4 bolts, and both dowels, or your transmission will break. The bolts on the front and back go through the dowels, the rear is a smaller bolt than the rest, and goes in through the engine side. With just the top 2 bolts your clutch wont work correctly either.

There are only 2 bolts that will line up, and two threaded (block) that match up to unthreaded (trans, to accept the dowels). If my understanding of dowels is correct, the holes in the trans that the dowels go into will be bigger than the 14mm thread, because aren't dowels made out of like tube stock that just gets threaded on one end?

Also I just sold of my two 7 bolt blocks earlier in the week so taking the dowels from those, unfortunately, is not an option.

 

[92AWDHX40]

You will need all bolts, or your housing will crack i had that happen to me.

 

[miguelmcv]

There are only 2 bolts that will line up, and two threaded (block) that match up to unthreaded (trans, to accept the dowels). If my understanding of dowels is correct, the holes in the trans that the dowels go into will be bigger than the 14mm thread, because aren't dowels made out of like tube stock that just gets threaded on one end?

Also I just sold of my two 7 bolt blocks earlier in the week so taking the dowels from those, unfortunately, is not an option.

OK, I understand what you say.
Now, Here is, what you can do.

If you have the trans all ready in.

You just put a past bolt with a Nut, Keeping the tranny and block together, so the bell housing gets the support from that bolt, (this is only at the radiator side).

At the other end, which is at the back side, If the tranny is on, You will not be able to see the thread all the way inside the tranny, (this is where the dowel supposed to be), So if the dowel is around 1", the thread should be 1" deeper, this is without adding the 1' thickness of the block, so basically you need a 3" long bolt or something like that,,..,, (JUST TO GIVE YOU THE IDEA).

The bolt has to be 8mm. I know is too too too small for the Hole, But it is an 8mm bolt. (be leave me). Just try it.

Is hard to see the treads inside the tranny, this is because is to deep and tight to see it.

Once you see is threaded then choose the right size bolt (long).

Let us know If you found the thread.

 

[flat four]

OK, I understand what you say.
Now, Here is, what you can do.

If you have the trans all ready in.

You just put a past bolt with a Nut, Keeping the tranny and block together, so the bell housing gets the support from that bolt, (this is only at the radiator side).

At the other end, which is at the back side, If the tranny is on, You will not be able to see the thread all the way inside the tranny, (this is where the dowel supposed to be), So if the dowel is around 1", the thread should be 1" deeper, this is without adding the 1' thickness of the block, so basically you need a 3" long bolt or something like that,,..,, (JUST TO GIVE YOU THE IDEA).

The bolt has to be 8mm. I know is too too too small for the Hole, But it is an 8mm bolt. (be leave me). Just try it.

Is hard to see the treads inside the tranny, this is because is to deep and tight to see it.

Once you see is threaded then choose the right size bolt (long).

Let us know If you found the thread.

You are actually semi-correct. I did come up with a solution.
Inside the tansmission case where the where the dowel goes into, i did find some 12mm threads. I had a piece of threaded 12mm stock (that i used to make a timing belt tensioner compressing tool). with that i had a long (1 1/2" long nut to thread the tensioner tool in with) and ground it down to round to act as a bushing/spacer. I put the stock through the 14mm hole in the block where the dowel went into and threaded the stock through the rounded off nut and into the transmission case. So it is now acting as both a dowel pin and and bolt and is pulling the block and case together.

Unfortunately for me on the front of the motor next to the 1g motor mount the piece of cast iron that would have had the dowel pin is broken off. However I am confident that my solution is going to add enough stability and rigidity to keep everything from twisting around.

Thanks to all for the help!

 

[miguelmcv]

You are actually semi-correct. I did come up with a solution.
Inside the tansmission case where the where the dowel goes into, i did find some 12mm threads. I had a piece of threaded 12mm stock (that i used to make a timing belt tensioner compressing tool). with that i had a long (1 1/2" long nut to thread the tensioner tool in with) and ground it down to round to act as a bushing/spacer. I put the stock through the 14mm hole in the block where the dowel went into and threaded the stock through the rounded off nut and into the transmission case. So it is now acting as both a dowel pin and and bolt and is pulling the block and case together.

Unfortunately for me on the front of the motor next to the 1g motor mount the piece of cast iron that would have had the dowel pin is broken off. However I am confident that my solution is going to add enough stability and rigidity to keep everything from twisting around.

Thanks to all for the help!

Good you figure it out.

One more thing.

You do need a 4th bolt to have the tranny safe from cracking, 3 bolt are enough to hold the tranny from spinning, But, are not enough to keep it safe from cracking.

You can always use Helicoil if there is a size for that huge hole )(at the block).

 

[SOADweskey]

I have seen cars with horrible shifting problems with all the bolts in but missing the dowels. Those dowels are a very important part and without them you should not install your transmission and if you already did you really shouldn't drive it. They are a critical part of keeping the input shaft correctly lined up with the crank shaft.