Show me your clean engine bays

[901gtsi]

Simple 16g setup

 

[xxNocturnalxx]

^ That looks great.

Here's my mess. I just recently tossed in a Spyder GS radiator. The ebay catch can will be replaced soon as my Calan can comes in, along with new braided hose and fittings. Also considering removing the power steering.

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I would be a little worried about how tight that rad. hose is when engine flex comes into play. Do you plan on changing that hose?

 

[gofer]

Updated photo of the recent engine bay changes, installed a new AFCO radiator setup with 20AN lines/fittings.

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[yhype]

Wow that new radiator setup really made a lot more space in your bay

 

[T is for TURBO]

Gofer, I have always been jealous of how damn clean your car is.

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My work in progress.

 

[Dyesuperman]

Updated photo of the recent engine bay changes, installed a new AFCO radiator setup with 20AN lines/fittings.

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Looks fantastic as always, how much do you have into the new radiator setup with the lines and all?

 

[gofer]

Thanks, I appreciate it.

I bought the AFCO radiator for $320 new from Savo, it came with the 20AN bungs already welded on, the push fan, and the brackets welded on it to mount it to the existing A/C condenser brackets. To build the 20AN hoses I spent another $340 ($90/ea for the 45* hose ends, $65/ea for the straights, and $30 for the hose), the 20AN bungs for the t-stat housing were $30 for both, getting them welded on I spent $60 from the welder, and I also installed a 143* t-stat that was $45.

Total. Roughly $800.

You could definitely do this for less than $350 though if you just buy the AFCO radiator/fan, then use universal hoses and mount it into the radiator support using the brackets it comes with.

I'm still not finished with it. I had to remove my hood latch and modify the center bumper support, eliminating the underside of it since that beam that runs vertical is no longer there. There's a bunch of exposed metal so now I'm pulling everything back off, sanding it down, and shooting it with red paint so it doesn't corrode. I'll definitely be putting the setup to the test, we've been seeing temps 105*+ out here the last few weeks. If this setup keeps my CT's down then it will work well anywhere...

 

[T is for TURBO]

I also installed a 143* t-stat that was $45.

Why 143° thermostat? AZ weather?

 

[gofer]

Why 143° thermostat? AZ weather?

Yes and no. I had the 143* t-stat when I lived in San Diego too, not installed but was planning on running it. My 180* t-stat keep CT's around 200~205* idle/cruise/WOT but I'd like to see them around ~180*. Hopefully this t-stat, coupled with this more efficient dual pass radiator, 180* CT's will be attainable even on the 115* days out here.

I'm going to test this setup with no ducting, then install some makeshift cardboard ducting I cut. If I see a drop in CT's running the ducting then I'll make it out of something a bit sturdier than cardboard/tape.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Thanks, I appreciate it.

I bought the AFCO radiator for $320 new from Savo, it came with the 20AN bungs already welded on, the push fan, and the brackets welded on it to mount it to the existing A/C condenser brackets. To build the 20AN hoses I spent another $340 ($90/ea for the 45* hose ends, $65/ea for the straights, and $30 for the hose), the 20AN bungs for the t-stat housing were $30 for both, getting them welded on I spent $60 from the welder, and I also installed a 143* t-stat that was $45.

Total. Roughly $800.

You could definitely do this for less than $350 though if you just buy the AFCO radiator/fan, then use universal hoses and mount it into the radiator support using the brackets it comes with.

I'm still not finished with it. I had to remove my hood latch and modify the center bumper support, eliminating the underside of it since that beam that runs vertical is no longer there. There's a bunch of exposed metal so now I'm pulling everything back off, sanding it down, and shooting it with red paint so it doesn't corrode. I'll definitely be putting the setup to the test, we've been seeing temps 105*+ out here the last few weeks. If this setup keeps my CT's down then it will work well anywhere...

REALLY curious why you have so many heating issues... The stant 170 is working AWESOME for me with an oem rad and passenger big fan. Not as cold as my koyo at. Steady 180 but the oem rad is 186 about.

 

[gofer]

...200* isn't anything to be worried about, I just want 180* CT's to help detonation doing WOT pulls in the heat at the track. That being said, I've never seen logged CT's on a 2g below 195* when it's fully warmed up in any type of weather so that's impressive how low yours are.

Maybe it's my NAPA "know how" water pump that's f*'ing me.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Maybe! Haha i have an oem water pump, i can send you a log if you would like to see a 2g with 180's CTs for once haha.

It's been like low 70s to mid 80s too

Note: I'm also only running one fan, the oem metal one that always melts is gone for me.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

That said, I'm gonna go and clean my bay real quick and snap a pic for you fine gentlemen.

 

[WES_393]

I would be a little worried about how tight that rad. hose is when engine flex comes into play. Do you plan on changing that hose?

I eventually plan to replace it with an aluminum pipe and couplers. But it hasn't been an issue yet, even with 1.7s 60-foot times.

 

[djsuperwho]

here is mine

 

[gofer]

Damn. I can't even look at that thing it's so bright.

 

[horizontalkev]

Your air filter came off

 

[djsuperwho]

the turbo was sucking too hard that it blew it off I know I am still working on it.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

^that doesnt even make sense.

 

[djsuperwho]

I am waiting on a hose coupler to complete the intake system, that is why the air filter is off.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

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[gofer]

I like it. I know we've been discussing your radiator setup a bit lately and you running that stock one makes me a bit nervous. Keep an eye out on the inlet plastic, my good friend had his crack completely off the radiator because the heat of a tubular manifold makes the plastic so brittle.

Not saying that it will, just want you to be conscience of the fact it's very possible so watch it.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

It's been well lubricated. I dont plan to run this one forever. Just a $20 fix but itll last a while.

You talking about the top fill neck crackin clean off?

 

[IrishBeatdown]

It's been well lubricated. I dont plan to run this one forever. Just a $20 fix but itll last a while.

You talking about the top fill neck crackin clean off?

You really should get a 1g rad for that man, hose inlet on the 2g is way too close to that tubular mani, especially without any kind of heatwrap or coating. I think that is what gofer was trying to say. That manifold is already going to be running hot before you stick a coolant hose inches from it. I do like the 900$ manifold paired with the 20$ radiator, though. This is dsm style.

That being said, smoker, your car has come a long way since I saw it last.

 

[gofer]

Cracking clean off, like it sheared. Instantly pulled over since he threw down a HUGE smoke screen and the plastic inlet piece was still clamped inside of his upper radiator hose.

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