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LRS95TSI

15+ Year Contributor
450
4
Nov 9, 2004
louisville, Kentucky
went out to tune my car after my new setup was put on. had it all perfect. went to do one last pull, vaccuum line blew off the boost controller and sent a rod through the block. so i guess i need to find another 7 bolt block i would assume? any other options suggestions causes? smoke and oil everywhere. the top of the engine remains clean. the engine pulled negative timing my numbers were ridiculous on the pocketlogger.
 
Ouch. And that is the reason to put ziptips or clamps on at least your wastegate/boot controllers lines. Sorry to hear the bad news. Hope it goes a little better from here on.
 
I'm sure he had ties on there, it would be insane not to. But you need to find a new block. Now is the opportune time for a 6 bolt swap, which I am taking advantage of because I'm getting rod knock. Good luck, and keep us posted what you do. :thumb:
 
what would be easier to do, and more cost effective. is it likely that it just needs a new block how often would new internals be necessary? ive never had to do nething with the engine itself. im quite upset to be honest. it definately wasnt manly, i cried all day man!
 
i really just wanna keep everything stock as far as the engine goes, unless aftermarket parts would save me money. i havent got a chance to pull the motor yet. does anyone have an idea of what all would need to be replaced. there is a whole to the left of the oil return line about 2 inches above the oil pan. silver dollar size from where the rod shot out
 
LRS95TSI said:
i really just wanna keep everything stock as far as the engine goes, unless aftermarket parts would save me money. i havent got a chance to pull the motor yet. does anyone have an idea of what all would need to be replaced. there is a whole to the left of the oil return line about 2 inches above the oil pan. silver dollar size from where the rod shot out

For one thing your short block, you maybe able to salvage the head as long as the vavles are ok. Your gonna hafto replace your motor either with a remanufactured or salvage motor.
 
karking has stock rebuilt 6 bolt long blocks with head and all, ready to bolt in, for $1150 i think, sounds super cheap to me, with 6 month warranty
 
so if the head is ok...im just looking for a short block (bottom end). does anyone know where to find a good diagram of the engine and the placement of the internals. what kind of internals would need to be replaced more than likely, and a good place to find em? remember i am on a budget so whatever is the cheapest and most effective route.
 
LRS95TSI said:
so if the head is ok...im just looking for a short block (bottom end). does anyone know where to find a good diagram of the engine and the placement of the internals. what kind of internals would need to be replaced more than likely, and a good place to find em? remember i am on a budget so whatever is the cheapest and most effective route.

I think your confused. Your motor is FUBAR, you need a WHOLE new motor not just internals. When you put your rod though the block you took away all possibilities of a rebuild.

A rebuilt short block comes with crank, pistons, rods.

From the way you talk it sound like you have limited experience with motors so i'm going to suggest just getting a WHOLE nother motor.
http://www.karking.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=183

Theres a rebuilt 6bolt for a desent price.
 
ur right i don't know a whole lot about motors. however, my friend who does said that more then likely the short block is ruined. the rod is gone, the piston is shot. he sed the head should be fine. i have been looking at this karking website. ne1 ever had one of these engines? reliable? whta kinda shipping do they charge? especially to good ol KY
 
I agree with everybody else, get a 6 bolt, its 'the wave' of the future. :cool: Depending on how much you want to spend, or, how much you plan on growing, you should maybe even consider forged internals as well :D Aside from the 16g turbo you're sporting, your setup looks like you could out-grow it very easily. (-thinks 16g turbos are [anemic])
 
the only thing that worries me with a 6bolt is the fact their a fairly old engine. i would like to have one but i need it to last 5 yrs or so till im outta college and buy a new car. i am very happy with my setup and very comfortable at how im gonna use it (19-22 lbs of boost). i just need a stock engine that will last and can handle it. if a rebuilt 6 bolt is reliable or i can find another 7 bolt block thats the right im gonna go. i think right now the choice is based upon how screwed the bottom end is. but please keep posting your recommendations, every little bit helps since this disaster has caused me such a misfortune. ill take any help i can get!!!
 
Turbo Talon DL said:
I agree with everybody else, get a 6 bolt, its 'the wave' of the future. :cool: Depending on how much you want to spend, or, how much you plan on growing, you should maybe even consider forged internals as well :D Aside from the 16g turbo you're sporting, your setup looks like you could out-grow it very easily. (-thinks 16g turbos are [anemic])

NO,NO,NO this poor guy allready stated he is on a low income why do you want him to spend unnecessary money. FORGED PISTONS,RODS are not needed unless you pushing 450-500+hp. Karking offers rebuilt 6 and 7 built motors. Call them up and ask about shipping.
 
is karking trustworthy..my two options would be to rebuild the block or to buy a new engine. could i rely on a 6 bolt to last for a while or should i pay the extra money and get a new 7 bolt???...i know 6 bolts are stronger but im more concerned about longevity becuz my setup isnt too extreme and never will be.
 
For the least amount of hassle just get a rebuilt 7-bolt from KarKing. It'll bolt right up and you can use the same flywheel. They have a AA rating with the BBB if that means anything for ya. Check their feeback with the BBB.
 
Since most of the vendors sell race preped motors and I only know of Karking that sells rebuilt ones. I would stick with a rebuilt 6bolt and not a 7bolt simply because 7bolt cranks that are turned have a higher rate of CW for some reason. your only other option is a JDM motor and you don't really know what your getting into there. I would do alittle more research.
 
do the 6 bolt swap.you might as well since your engine's done anyways.with another 7 bolt,thats just another chance of crankwalk,and another chance to blow another engine.you just need a 6 bolt shortblock if you wanna go budget.
 
i appreciate the help. but i really want your opinions on if u guys think the 6 bolt would be trustowrthy down the road. like i sed im going to keep this car all thru college and need it to maintain for the most part. i know 6 bolt's are stronger but it's just becuz their older that scares me.
 
The main difference between a six bolt and a seven bolt block is the rods. This is what everybody is raving about. The 6 bolt has "bigger" rods capable of handling a little more power. But since you dont care about running low numbers at the track the 7 bolt will be fine.

FORGET crankwalk. It's overrated and ESPECIALLY if you have a fwd car. Rebuilt blocks from KarKing should have the crankwalk correction anyhow. Unless you're awd and plan to use a ACT2900 I wouldn't worry about cw.

Crankwalk is the boogeyman of the DSM world.
 
that was my assumption plus i read up on the 6 bolt swap, and it looks rather complicated and time consuming. I HAVE NO TIME at all so the sooner i can do somethign the better. i mean what kinda percentages am i looking at with crankwalk? would karking be the best solution for getting a new 7 bolt that will last?
 
A 6 bolt can crankwalk too.
I put 216,000 HARD miles on my 13 year old 7 bolt and it didn't walk.
CW should be the least of your concerns but if you want to worry about that then eh.
 
my concern is reliability, time, and money. i think it would be the smartest thing to get a new 7 bolt. that way it will bolt right in and i can count on it to last. this is my only car therefore i can't have a whole lot fo down time especially to do a 6 bolt swap or rebuilding crap. but please keep the suggestions coming it has really been helpful
 
LRS95TSI said:
my concern is reliability, time, and money. i think it would be the smartest thing to get a new 7 bolt. that way it will bolt right in and i can count on it to last. this is my only car therefore i can't have a whole lot fo down time especially to do a 6 bolt swap or rebuilding crap. but please keep the suggestions coming it has really been helpful

You better just sell your DSM because reliability is the last thing these cars are known for. Fast yes, reliable no. And I will be the fisrt to beat the hype on CW too RiceKiller but from other members posts on having CW and then trying to fix it have not been sucsessful. I have 113K miles on my 7bolt with many hard runs, and plenty of broken parts to go with it. There is no such thing as a "fix" for CW. There are ways to slow or suspend it, but no garuenteed way to fix it.

A quality rebuilt motor will last you a long time and that depends on how you treat it and take care of it. If you plan on doing any type of racing plan on things breaking. Turbo motors wearout twice as fast as N/A motors.
 
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