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2G Shifter Side-to-Side Play

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Shimmer

15+ Year Contributor
35
25
Jul 31, 2008
Vancouver, BC, Canada
I'm in the process of trying to replace all of the old bushings to tighten up the feel of the shifter. After replacing everything from the interior shifter assembly I've noticed that there is still some amount of side to side play when the shifter is in gear. I've made a video of what this looks like under the hood and was wondering if this seems excessive. The shifter cable brackets are tightened up and don't move around but would replacing the bushing between the levers help with this? I believe it's part MD712919 which is still visible unlike some people who have said theirs is missing entirely.

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Thanks in advance!
 
What does it look like from the interior? I've replaced every single bushing and hardware on my entire shifting system and there's still some side to side play in my shifter, so I'm guessing it's normal.
 
Gary is talking about the very bottom "square" looking thing IIRC. My shifter is rock solid after replacing ALL of the bushings and the neutral spring load on it keeps it centered and not a bit of play. Night and day difference. :thumb:
I wouldn't think a 2g shifter would be much different but mine is a 90.
 
I just replaced all the bushings on the shifter, select lever, trans cable ends and trans mounting bracket and while I haven't put it all together yet because the trans is still off the car (rebuilding it), there's still a bit of play on the select lever, as well as on the shifter, side to side.

The select lever is the lever on the trans that can be removed and is held on by 2 trans-mounted bolts, that the white rectangular shoe goes on. I replaced both brass bushings on it but there's still some play.

I suspect that it's a worn inner washer, part # MD713416, that goes between the bushing and big outer washer, as I suspect that years of use have worn it down. I ordered a new one. Hopefully that fixes is.

If not, then I might have to find or make a very thin shim, but that might make things too tight. Perhaps it's meant to have some play?

Same with the shifter, a likely worn inner washer, part # MB367720, that goes between the spring washer and bushing. I replaced both plastic bushings on it but still some play. I forgot to order a new washer, but I will get one if it's still available. Hopefully that will work.
 
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If don't see how if there's a small amount of play on either end. They're not going to cancel each other out. And we're not talking huge play, just a little bit. More of an annoyance than anything really bad.

Plus this isn't about my issues. I was just trying to offer a suggestion about yet another thing for the OP to look at.
 
Here is how the play looks from the interior. I start in 4th gear and shift into 3rd gear.

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I've decided to contact one of the freelance vendors to purchase a few more bushings including that cube piece on the gear select lever.

Thanks for the replies. The DSM community is a great source of information and the people who continue to make these small but important items for us have my eternal gratitude.
 
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As I wrote above the inside washers, which basically operate as bushings, might be worn down as well. I'm replacing mine and you might want to do the same yourself, at least on the trans select lever if not the shift lever as well. The former involves metal to metal rubbing while the latter is metal to plastic. But over the years it might wear down too, especially if loose and rubbing against the spring washer on its other side.
 
I have a short shifter so one of the washers you mentioned shouldn't be seeing any type of movement as that part is no longer being used as a pivot point. I also had a weld done as shown in Jafromobile's video so there is zero movement between the anodized riser and the part that it sits on top of. I know that this is a common problem using short shifters.

As for the other part you mentioned I think that should be resolved by the brass pieces which I am order from GSX-Dude's kit. Please correct me if I'm wrong but I think the washer you're referring to is covered by #8 from this set:

 
My select lever appears to be either of a slightly different design as yours, or the 2 brash bushings in #8 replace the 2 OEM brass bushings AND the thick washer that goes on the nut-facing bushing, since I don't see the unthreaded part of the shaft they go on. If the new washer I ordered doesn't take up the slack then I might buy the one you got. Or I might try to fashion a thin shim out of a coke can or bottle.

Does anyone know if brass rubbing on aluminum tends to wear out one or the other? Although I'd probably put the shim on the large washer side of the thick washer, where there shouldn't be rubbing.
 
This is a Rock Solid Shifter after new bushings.
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FWIW I ended up ordering several new parts for the select lever and just got them yesterday. When I replaced just the 2 bushings earlier this month it didn't seem to help much and there was still a bit of slop.

So I ordered a new "thick" washer, part # MD713416, the innermost one that goes between the outer bushing and "thin" washer, along with 2 new rubber dust covers, parts # MD723339 & MD713757, the latter two more for the hell of it than because it seemed necessary as the old ones looked a bit ragged and I wanted things to look nice after I cleaned and painted the trans before reassembling it.

When I installed just the new washer, there was still some slop. But when I replaced the inner dust cover (which is actually more like a gasket since it's a ring and not solid like the other dust cover), the slop was gone! I mean there was still a tiny bit of slop left, but really minuscule and likely not noticeable on the shifter. Putting on the outer dust cover seemed to reduce this tiny slop even further.

So, basically, if you're concerned about select lever slop then you need to replace not just the shoe but also the inner "thick" washer and the dust covers, which appear to be mechanically functional and not just esthetic or to keep water and other liquids from gunking up the works.

Also note that one of the dust covers, the inner one, MD723339, is listed as obsolete by US Mitsu dealers, but Amayama in Japan had it. Took a few weeks but well worth it. I found that a bunch of small parts listed as obsolete by US Mitsu dealers were still available through them, so if you want or need a supposedly obsolete part, try Amayama (but only if you REALLY need it or need other parts as shipping is somewhat pricey and slow).
 
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Yep, if you want it to be rock solid, you replace every bushing/wear item in the shifter then move outside to the transmission side.
 
FWIW I ended up ordering several new parts for the select lever and just got them yesterday. When I replaced just the 2 bushings earlier this month it didn't seem to help much and there was still a bit of slop.

So I ordered a new "thick" washer, part # MD713416, the innermost one that goes between the outer bushing and "thin" washer, along with 2 new rubber dust covers, parts # MD723339 & MD713757, the latter two more for the hell of it than because it seemed necessary as the old ones looked a bit ragged and I wanted things to look nice after I cleaned and painted the trans before reassembling it.

When I installed just the new washer, there was still some slop. But when I replaced the inner dust cover (which is actually more like a gasket since it's a ring and not solid like the other dust cover), the slop was gone! I mean there was still a tiny bit of slop left, but really minuscule and likely not noticeable on the shifter. Putting on the outer dust cover seemed to reduce this tiny slop even further.

So, basically, if you're concerned about select lever slop then you need to replace not just the shoe but also the inner "thick" washer and the dust covers, which appear to be mechanically functional and not just esthetic or to keep water and other liquids from gunking up the works.

Also note that one of the dust covers, the inner one, MD723339, is listed as obsolete by US Mitsu dealers, but Amayama in Japan had it. Took a few weeks but well worth it. I found that a bunch of small parts listed as obsolete by US Mitsu dealers were still available through them, so if you want or need a supposedly obsolete part, try Amayama (but only if you REALLY need it or need other parts as shipping is somewhat pricey and slow).

Thanks for the update. I'm still waiting on a few of the replacement pieces that I ordered from Gsx-Dude and will see what kind of an improvement that makes first. That's great info about Amayama for future replacement pieces if needed.
 
Yep, if you want it to be rock solid, you replace every bushing/wear item in the shifter then move outside to the transmission side.
I was actually referring to the select lever that's bolted to the outside of the trans, but the same probably applies to the shifter inside the car. Still a bit of side to side slop there that I'd like to eliminate before I'm done.
 
Thanks for the update. I'm still waiting on a few of the replacement pieces that I ordered from Gsx-Dude and will see what kind of an improvement that makes first. That's great info about Amayama for future replacement pieces if needed.
Every little bit helps. I'm told that when you replace all these small parts with either new OEM or superior aftermarket ones, the difference it makes in shifting is night and day, like a brand new and much more expensive car. Fingers crossed as I should find out in a few days (I was going to rebuild and install the trans today but I'm wiped out from the past few days of doing other work on the car).

And I was pleasantly surprised that the Amayama order took just 13 days to arrive, all the way from Japan and under present covid circumstances. Shipping wasn't too bad considering where it came from, around $20.
 
I just got the replacement pieces which I ordered from Gsx-Dude. Here is the comparison between the old and new part.

Unfortunately I'm have a hard time removing the bushing from the transmission select lever. They are really stuck in there so I'll give it another try tomorrow. I don't have a way to grip them and I can't get anything between the bushing and the lever in order to pry it out.

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I used a small punch and hammer. Since you'll be replacing them it doesn't matter if you damage them a bit. Just be careful with the inside of the lever hole to not mar it. Pressing the new ones in is easy. I think I used a small socket and hammer. You could also use a small vise. This isn't at all like replacing a press fit bearing.

Note that there was still play in the lever after I replaced the bushings so I replaced the 2 rubber dust covers and thick washer, which reduced the play. This was probably overkill but I figured once every 29 years so what the hell.

Btw are you sure you got the correct new square plastic show above? The new one's supposed to be white and the same height as the old one. Does the black one fit properly without bending the arm or being too tight?
 
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