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Shaved Door Handle Molding

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wafflez66

15+ Year Contributor
114
0
Apr 30, 2004
Horseheads, New_York
First off, I tried searching for shaved door handle molding or shaved door handles, but didn't find what i was looking for. If anyone has a link, I'd be more than happy to follow it, but does anyone have any pics of JUST THE MOLDING around the door handle shaved (prefferably on a 1G) so that all there is just a handle? thanks,

Jon
 
interesting idea, sorry i can't help.

if i had door handles still, i'd take a look at it and see if possible, i'm sure it is though with a little work
 
I would love to get my door handles shaved, but the local track wont allow me to race. Then i got the smart idea of getting a second set of doors to race, and then the molded sideskirts to the fenders killed that idea, so i got door handles. Any have any good ideas around the track laws for shaved door handles?
 
heya at our track we have to have door handles too but most people just stick a pair of handles on with duck tape they dont work but it doest say that they have to be working. your track may be different but worth a try
 
At the track, it isn't smart, but you could show them where your safety cord or button is to open the door from the outside. I wouldn't do it, but if you REALLY want to run that bad...
 
you're right i just want to mold the door handle in.
 
i ran mine at the track last year, they didn't even mention the handles during my Tech Inspection. then again, it was 'hickville' wisconsin, that may have had something to do with it

but like you said, you don't wanna shave the handle itself, just the molding surrounding it. i think that would be really neat, and probably very doable too.
 
I don't have any actual photos but here is a quick photochop, not my best work ever but it should suffice.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
that's what i'm looking for, but i was looking @ the door handle and it looks like it might be easier to mold another kind of door handle in smooth, b/c the stock one is quite bulky, but then i was thinking that if i was to go through all that, why not just shave the door handles? any opinions?
 
I have a few quick questions, first off, Once I install the solonoid, how do I open the doors from inside the car? Second, I heard of someone mounting a emergency button with a 9v plug, How do you do that. Thanks for the help.
 
As for you first question, the same way you opened them before. The solonoid is only in use when opening from the outside. It doesn't change the anything else. For your second question, they make kits that you can buy with the nine volt backup. Most large companies that sell shaving kits also have them too. Hope that helps
 
The backup button can be mounted somewhere hidden and is wired in to activate the solenoid to pop the doors open in case the remotes fail or as a primary way of opening to doors. I used a kit from AutoLoc on a car I shaved the handles on and it worked good. Easy to install. Good procduct.
 
Can I Mount The Solanoid At The Bottom Of The Door Or Does It Need To Be A Straight Line From The Latch?
 
the straighter the shot to the latch the better. all that it will do if you mount it on an angle is dig into the solinode and potental wear the cable out. I mounted mine right befor the curve of the door on the bottom seam to be working well for me.(it in a 2g though).

hope this helps
Chris
 
4g63swap, do you have any good pic's of that install you did?
 
I need help with two things. The first I removed the handle, but how do i remove the rods, the actual handle rod and the lock rod? Second, Where do I wrap the cable around on the latch. Any help is great, pictures are even better. Thanks
 
the lock mechanism should remove with a few bolts if i remember correctly from 5years ago. as for the cables... i picked up some bicycle brake cables and the little bolts with the holes to go on the ends. i then took a small piece of flat metal (approx 1/4" x 1") and drilled a hole on each end. one end to the handle mechanism, and put the bolt through the other that tightens the cable down. by sliding the cable through the hole in the bolt, then tightening down the nut/bolt, you can adjust the tension on the cable to the right amount.

keep in mind that the cable will probably stretch over the first few months and will need some readjusting every now and again. mine did a few times in the past 5yrs. not bad though. the first week was rough, i just kept the door panel off. and when the weather was cold, it changed the characteristics as well.
 
Ok, So just as I first started my car after everything, I see smoke arising from where the alarm wires all are after the install, What are the possible causes of this, Also on the shaved handle sonlnoid bracket, does that ground itself to the door panel? I'm in need of some big help

Also whether it matters or not this is on my 2g
 
You can ground the door solenoid to any GOOD ground. As far as the smoke, you msot likely either overloaded an existing wire (did you tap into an existing 12v source for power?) or shorted a wire causing the sleeve to melt. Look for melted wires and figure out if they're going to the correct place then replace them.
 
The door solnoid has no ground spot, so I was wondering does it ground itself when its mounted to the door, And is the door a good ground. Also How to I check to see if the wires are in the right spot, I just went by colors on the vfaq site?
 
What gauge sheet metal would be used to fill the handle hole and do people usually just use the existing hole or make it square?
 
When I had an S10 in the shop to work on I used 16g because it welds easier than 18g, I cut mine about an inch longer than the hole. Then you can use a magnet to hold it in place....while you get the first tack welds on. Be sure to use low heat. Then start the body work. Easy as pie. I'll check back if you need any help! Good luck!
 
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