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Setup isn't making power... help!

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AUSVR4

Probationary Member
12
0
Aug 14, 2005
Adelaide, Australia
Hi guys,
I hope this is the right area... Anyway I need your opinions on whats wrong. I've recently had my setup tuned and it's simply not making the power it should.

I have a 1991 Galant VR4. At standard boost (12psi) it made 255AWHP, which I was quite happy with! At 17psi however, and only after dialling in the cams etc it only made AWHPawhp. More boost (we jumped it to 20psi spiking at 23psi) the power increase was negligable due to knock.

My setup includes...

2.3L VR4 engine:
4G64 crank
Wiseco 8.5(I need to confirm) pistons
Eagle Rods
HKS 272 cams with adjustable cam gears
Hardened valve springs and moly retainers
Cometic HP head gasket
EVO 3 lifters
EVO 3 (2G) head with standard ports
EVO 8 injectors

Induction:
600x300x76 intercooler
2.5" aluminium intercooler piping
Holset HX35 w/ bolt on exhaust housing
"GTPumps" cast exhaust manifold
4" intake
3" exhaust
Electronic boost controller

Tuning:
DSMLink
7 heat range plugs
EVO (2G) 609 maf
standard coils
98 RON (a bit different to the rating of your fuel in the US but the equivalent to your high octane pump fuel)
New knock sensor

I believe the boost spike issues are due to the fact that the Stainless steel O2 housing is to suit the old 14B, so the wastegate pipe is too small.

Ignition timing is taken down almost as far as it can go (-13) and still I can't remove knock at 5000 - 7000 rpm.

The mid range is considerably improved with the cams dialed in (full boost around 4k) but power dies right off after 6000rpm. I'm shocked at this because even though it's a 2.3L I still have a big turbo!?

I'll post pics of the dyno graph up in the morning but can anyone provide any insight? I believe I should have a 400 wheel HP setup here on pump fuel. My tuner believe's I'll get no more than 340 wHP.

He also seems to think that the compression is too high for pump fuel? Which is the cause of all the knock.

Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers
Dan
 
Boost leak test it, check the compression, and check out your knock sensor.
 
Is it at all possible that you are maxing out your injectors?? You said you have evo 8 injectors which are 560s I believe, and you are trying to make into 400 horsepower which seems to be a little bit of a stretch for those injectors.
 
Upgrading to 850cc-1000cc injectors might help a lot, considering the amount of air that the hx35 is capable of flowing...
 
I would definately have to say check your IDC's because you say you are getting knock in the higher RPM's. Thats when your turbo will be flowing its max. Also, make sure you boost leak test it, because that will max out your injectors really quick.
 
The knock sensor is brand new and securely in there.
I have to do a log but the AFR's are 11.x:1 so it's certainly not leaning out according to that.
We had the Sard 800cc injectors in there but maxing out the sliders for fuel on the DSMLink did absolutely nothing to correct it. It just ran pig rich. Possibly time for a fuel pressure regulator in that respect?

Keep the opinions coming guys. It's all helpful!
 
Yes, the walbro 190 lph pumps are borderline max flow that the stock FPR can handle. If you are running a higher output fuel pump (I didn't see mention of the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator) you need a new pressure regulator. That may help your probelm or always running rich with the 800 cc injs.
 
You are asking alot from those 560 injectors. You should look into getting larger injectors along with a larger fuel pump and adjustable regulator.
 
Yes sorry I'm running a Walbro with stock EVO 3 FPR. I realise the EVO 8's won't get me to the power I'm looking for but I just want to sort the knock issues before upping the boost/injectors
 
Upgrading your injectors may take care of your knock issues. You are asking alot of 560cc injectors.
 
water injection is always a great method to solve serious knock issues. You should check your intake temps as well.

I say if injectors don't help - get water injection, a bigger intercooler, or some type of colder airbox to get the temps down.

I've personally seen cases of super high knock (like you're describing) and water injection REMOVING it. as in, It doesn't exist anymore.

Good luck with your project! I'd like to see a positive outcome!
 
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