Seems like clutch slip, but no smell

[dksea37]

So I drove home today from work and my car was fine. It shifted and ran just like normal. I left my house about 15 minutes later and I heard a pop/grind noise. I also could've swore I felt it on the clutch pedal. Now I notice some symptoms of a slipping clutch. My car will rev very high, but I get almost no acceleration. I also do not smell any clutch burning whatsoever. It just doesn't make sense that a clutch could go like that just instantly.

I also noticed some rattle coming from the tranny when I let off the gas and let it slow down. I've checked for codes, but so far there is nothing. Car still seems to shift OK and I don't have any trouble taking off or anything like that. Just no power. Engine and turbo both seem to be normal. I can hear turbo spool like always.

Could this possibly be a bad Throw Out Bearing? I ask because I've always heard a slight whirling noise that went away when I engaged the clutch. I am just not sure if a bad TOB could eventually lead to a problem like this.

Any feedback is greatly appreciated!

 

[gieri002]

Agreed. The first time you remove the transmission it takes a good amount of time but the procedure is fairly straightforward. The second time you will be able to do it in half the time. Heck, I went through 3 different transmissions when building my AWD spyder (due to shady sellers), by the third time I had the trans in and out in maybe 2 hours.

 

[dksea37]

So I just got under the car and I noticed my transfer case is leaking. Leaking to the point where its actually dripping on the ground. Both front axles seemed like they were full in transmission. Is there any way to know if a T-case is bad, without having to remove/drop it from the car?

The clutch master and slave aren't leaking either by the way.

 

[95DsManiac]

Hey there my friend, looks like your getting to the bottom of it atleast ruling things out. Trust me, when your clutch goes out everything else looks and feels completely fine. I feel it though your not trying to believe it is the clutch because of the possible down time and hard work. Don't worry bro, it ain't going to be all that hard, and plus you have us all here for advice and help along the way. Sxxt if you want too, you can keep your laptop with you when you do it and I'll stay logged in and guide you along the way. Or can send you my cell and help that way, either way whichever is easier for you. As far as the x-case, might as well drop it real quick. Doesn't take that long at all and is only 5 bolts. Then inspect it to see what you find when you drain it. We know it's already leaking, but we don't know why and what's the possible debris inside. Look for any silver coloring. The dms community has been having t-case problems since the early 1990s so it can be that, but honestly I'm leaning towards bad clutch.

Check these out:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...2xR4DA9rHsyX8qJjBul52GQ&bvm=bv.55819444,d.cGE

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...QjhQca0O1DnsYw81Nk6IWpA&bvm=bv.55819444,d.cGE

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...24g2BTE3IdhK-jEE8fF48GA&bvm=bv.55819444,d.cGE

The trade will most likely whine when your under load. Or the car won't move. It can go bad from very hard driving and or it can go bad by siezing up which is very dangerous. So that's why I'm thinking it's not the case, but who knows the clutch can be bad and the Tcase can be on its way out. Hope this helps.

Good luck and God Bless.

Anthony B.

 

[dksea37]

Hey there my friend, looks like your getting to the bottom of it atleast ruling things out. Trust me, when your clutch goes out everything else looks and feels completely fine. I feel it though your not trying to believe it is the clutch because of the possible down time and hard work. Don't worry bro, it ain't going to be all that hard, and plus you have us all here for advice and help along the way. Sxxt if you want too, you can keep your laptop with you when you do it and I'll stay logged in and guide you along the way. Or can send you my cell and help that way, either way whichever is easier for you. As far as the x-case, might as well drop it real quick. Doesn't take that long at all and is only 5 bolts. Then inspect it to see what you find when you drain it. We know it's already leaking, but we don't know why and what's the possible debris inside. Look for any silver coloring. The dms community has been having t-case problems since the early 1990s so it can be that, but honestly I'm leaning towards bad clutch.

The only reason I kind of stray away from it being a bad clutch a bit is because I bought the car with only about 1700 miles on rebuilt engine and tranny. I was also told that the clutch was new. At least thats what I was told. The car now has about 6600 miles on it and I never abuse it. Never even launched it, too afraid. I just find it odd that the clutch could go out so quick, but it is an Autozone brand clutch. I doubt that the previous owner abused it either, being as he was a DSM guru himself. But I could be wrong.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Jack up the back and see if the rear wheels are freewheeling. If it leaks, there's a chance you broke something at the transfer case. That would explain the symptoms you described.

 

[dksea37]

Jack up the back and see if the rear wheels are freewheeling. If it leaks, there's a chance you broke something at the transfer case. That would explain the symptoms you described.

So I look under the t case again and find that the driver side axle is not in the case all the way. I can wiggle it around and I think thats where its leaking. Both the rear wheels free spin with out any other wheel moving.

The thing is, this looks like its been going on for a while by the way the oil is caking on the case. So I could have this issue combined with a clutch issue as well? Any thoughts?

 

[Colt4G63 also]

That's the rear differential, not the transfer case, and you just found your problem.

The good news is that you don't have to pull the transmission.

 

[dksea37]

That's the rear differential, not the transfer case, and you just found your problem.

The good news is that you don't have to pull the transmission.

Yeah my bad, I wasn't thinking . Any suggestions on going about correcting this? Like how to get the axle back in?

 

[Colt4G63 also]

The end of the axle is probably damaged if it popped out while driving. There are three or four bolts at the other end of the axle, holding the outer C/V joint to the cup. Take those out, and pull the axle to inspect for damage.
The number of bolts holding the axle in will tell you if it's a four bolt rear or a three bolt rear end you're working on.

EDIT: My bad, I was thinking it was a 1g rear.

Disregard the dissassembly instructions above, they're for a 1g. You'll have to pull some of the rear suspension apart to get the axle out and inspect the end.

 

[95DsManiac]

Hopefully that's all it is. Update us with what it comes out to be. I never drove a awd Dsm so I wouldn't know if the car free revved during driving if it can be the rear diff I wouldn't think so, but I don't know.

Let us know though.

Anthony B.

 

[dksea37]

Yeah I was just about to ask . I should be able to get the axle off, okay, but not for a couple of days yet. I was just doing some investigation today. Hopefully that solves my problem and I don't have to drop the tranny. Thanks for the help. I'll be sure to update whenever I can get around to it, hopefully soon

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Hopefully that's all it is. Update us with what it comes out to be. I never drove a awd Dsm so I wouldn't know if the car free revved during driving if it can be the rear diff I wouldn't think so, but I don't know.

Let us know though.

Anthony B.

Yes it will drive, but have a really bad slipping sensation. That's because the rear driveshaft wants to free rev, but the viscous coupler in the transmission is gripping, and dragging the front diff to create a boost in traction to help with what it feels are slipping rear wheels. Continuing to run it that way will burn out the VC in the transmission.

 

[dksea37]

Any ideas on where to get some rear axles? I've checked rockauto, extremepsi, JNZ, and ebay. The only place I found was oemmitsubishiparts but they want $200 for both axles I believe, I only need one

EDIT: http://www.oemmitsubishiparts.com/p...up=AXLE SHAFTS & JOINTS&component=AXLE SHAFTS

 

[kenamond]

What I'd like to know is why you felt something through your foot and then noticed a clutch engagement issue. That sounds like a clutch issue. You said you heard grinding before. Could be the rear diff was already dead then you broke something in the clutch. If the PO changed the clutch, they very well may have re-used the clutch fork. I've heard that the OEM forks are weak. Mine broke on an upgraded, stiffer clutch, so that may have been what led the fork to break.

If you have to pull some suspension apart to get the rear axles out, read up. I've never done it, but I almost had to to drop the oil pan (two pan bolts are blocked by a front, driver-side axle bearing bracket. Fortunately, I was able to unbolt the bracket, shove the axle just enough out of the way to get to the pan bolts). More AWD fun. Anyway, when you take suspension apart and don't do it correctly, and stuff comes apart on the road...at speed...not good. Do your homework.

Also, if your xfer case (bolts to the tranny) is leaking, check with Chrysler (Talon) or Mitsu (GSX) and your VIN and see if it was already checked out for a recall issued back in '97 (IIRC). If it hasn't been inspected for the recall, it's a freebee. I forget the symptom but it had to do with leaking xfer case and a risk that it could seize due to low fluid level. Recalls are independent of age of car or owner.

 

[pauleyman]

Fix one problem before speculating on another. The recall islong gone. If a dealer did it now they are being nice. Recalls are not for life and this one has expired.

 

[kenamond]

Fix one problem before speculating on another. The recall islong gone. If a dealer did it now they are being nice. Recalls are not for life and this one has expired.

Huh. I was told otherwise, but you never can believe everything you're told. Are you sure both Chrysler and Mitsu recalls expired?

 

[pauleyman]

Considering I was part of the reason the recall exists, yes im sure

 

[dksea37]

Initially I thought I felt it on my foot but the more and more I think about it, I'm really not sure if I did or not. But definitely heard a pop or quick grind. But the way it looks is that I have no other choices besides addressing the differential issue first, and pray that it solves my problem, of not I'll have to move on to the clutch.

Also I've changed a front axle in my old 3G, and the process seems to be pretty much the same.

And I've never had an engagement issue when taking off.

 

[nelliott500]

Fix one problem before speculating on another. The recall islong gone. If a dealer did it now they are being nice. Recalls are not for life and this one has expired.

I was under the assumption recalls are for the life of the vehicle unless it has already been taken care of. TSBs are a limited amount of time.

 

[pauleyman]

No. Recalls are not for life. Call nhtsa if you dont believe me.

 

[dksea37]

UPDATE:

I finally got around to working on the car a couple days ago. Got the axle back into the differential, filled it with oil, and now my car is normal again!

However, upon inspecting the axle splines, they looked a little chewed up and damaged on the ends. I didn't think this would be enough to constitute replacing the axle so I just put it back in. I also changed the seal.

Now when I went for a test drive and got back home, I found that the diff is leaking where the axle goes in. The axle is still in place and the seal is brand new and I believe its seated properly. Could it be leaking due to the damage to the splines? I also think I accidentally overfilled the diff, could this be causing the leak? One more thing, is there some sort of breather on the differential itself?

 

[nelliott500]

How do you know you overfilled the diff? The fill procedure is extremely simple. While the car is level, pump fluid in to the diff through the fill hole until the fluid drips out on its own. Allow it to finish dripping and put the plug back in. Done.