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See anything wrong with this crank?

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crank lamp shades are cool!


Welllll, I would have to assume that anyone who lets a crank go for 10$ knows somethings wrong with it, however no pictures are going to tell you anything. Take it to a machine shop and have them check it out.

Hope it works out for you.
 
half-cocked said:
I threw a bid in on the below stated crankshaft just because it was only $10. It seems ok, the seller seems to think its ok, so who thinks its usuable and who thinks its a cool lamp shade base.

Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...d=1,1&item=8066393813&sspagename=STRK:MEWN:IT

It looks as if you may have made a good score even with the shipping costs. Too bad you didn't get the block as well. I looked at the 2-3 main bearings still there and they seem to reflect the crank and block are ok.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/talo...ryZ33613QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
......................

With the money you saved treat yourself to a couple of digital vernier calipers from Harbor Freight if you don't have percision measuring tools. If the guy is a straight shooter he might tell you why it was parted out and may even be a member here.

Cheers,
GTM
 
Thanks for posting the block auction, the bearings that are left look fairly clean from the angle given. I just picked up some mitutoyo digital calipers not too long ago I'll finally get a chance to use them. Thanks again.
 
half-cocked said:
Thanks for posting the block auction, the bearings that are left look fairly clean from the angle given. I just picked up some mitutoyo digital calipers not too long ago I'll finally get a chance to use them. Thanks again.

Good business, remember the vernier also has a depth gage. How are you going to determine the depth of your combustion chamber for example?? You put a straight edge across it, rest the base of the handle on the straight edge and then measure the depth, subtract the width of the straightedge. Want to double check, flip the straightedge over and retake measurment.

Manifold bolts and studs lenghts so you don't bottom out before they get tight etc.
...........

Less reliable, main crankshaft thrust bearing journal width requires an inside compass and then transfered to the vernier. You can do cylinder bores as well which will give a general idea of tapers.

Cheers,
GTM
 
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