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seafoam works! [merged]

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cranky

Probationary Member
12
2
Nov 15, 2003
I have been using seafoam in heavy equipment engines for years and I have seen it make dramatic differences in performance and idle quality. I recently had a problem with low power from my 91 talon. It felt like the computer was removing timing. Normally what I do is find a secluded spot because you will smoke down your whole neighborhood. Start the engine and let it get up to opperating temp. I remove a vacum hose and put it in the can and rev the engine to about 2500 rpm and suck the can dry. Shut off the engine and let it sit for about 15 minutes. Then start it back up and run it down the road, and run it hard. This will remove a substantial amount of carbon build up from the combustion chambers. :thumb:
 
You have to rev it in order for it to work. It opens up the TB, and then the smoke dumps out like fogger. Trust me, if you just let it idle, it won't do much, until you drive it, then it will smoke like crazy.... and you can use it in your tank, your crankcase, your spark plug wells, and of course, your intake. I always use about 3 bottles on one car, 1 in the tank, at least 3/4 full, 1 in the intake system, 1/2 in the crankcase, and the other 1/2 in the spark plug wells. If you do use it in the crankcase and/or the spark plug wells, change your oil afterwards, that way to prevent the infamous "hydro lock," people are hyping this up way to much. I never had problems with it, but hey, like others say, some are unlucky.
 
Hydro lock has nothing to do with changing your oil. The reason you change your oil after using the seafoam in the combusion chamber is because the seaform will seep past the piston rings and into the oil pan. This will actually contaminate your oil. You should turn your engine over a couple of times (spark plugs removed of course) to eject any left over cleaner from the combustion chamber to eliminate hydro lock. Hydro lock can occur when the piston is trying to compress a liquid. And liquids are not compressable. Preventing hydro lock has nothing to do with luck. What is luck anyway? Just do things properly and your engine will be fine.
 
First off I just read the 11 pages on the seafoam about 10 mins ago and did not want to bring back an old thead. I just have a few questions. Is it a good idea to do it to an engine with close to 200k on it. Second, where do you put the seafoam on a 2G N/T.

Thanks.
 
And how many separate threads do you think we should have?

You must have skipped posts 396 and 397.
 
At $6 a quart, I no longer by the stuff. Yeah it's a good product, but things have gotten out of hand. Next time I'll probably use ATF.

Actually I think that comes in a 16 oz container? So that's $6 a pint? Way out of control.

So that's like $48 a gallon? F that is ridiculous.

I hereby boycott seafoan, they're raping us because it's become so popular.
 
Just adding my experience. I was having issues with lots of knock up top. I went to the Chrysler dealership 2 days ago, got 2 cans of MCCC and ran one through a vacum hose into the intake manifold.
Car feels more responsive and the knock up top is pretty much gone! I will run the second can in a few days and that should completely clean everything up. I definitely recommend it to anyone.

It was $5.75 so $12 something for 2 cans which is cheap in my opinion for what it does.
 
That post was a while ago, but I don't really get it. What does the fact that it costs 48 dollars a gallon have to do with anything? You aren't running your car off seafoam LOL, it's a treatment you do every once in a while. That's like saying cough medicine is expensive it costs $xxx a gallon. Ok, but are you always sick?

I have both seafoam products, I ran the engine treatment once and I also had a can of spray style. The spray works like liquid wrench and it's lasted me for a while and still going.

Spoolin4Ever said:
At $6 a quart, I no longer by the stuff. Yeah it's a good product, but things have gotten out of hand. Next time I'll probably use ATF.

Actually I think that comes in a 16 oz container? So that's $6 a pint? Way out of control.

So that's like $48 a gallon? F that is ridiculous.

I hereby boycott seafoan, they're raping us because it's become so popular.
 
I just seamfoamed my car yesterday, put it in the oil and sucked it in through the bov line before switching to synthetic, I was surprised, my car has 100 000km (60 000 miles) and it barely puffed out any smoke, I sucked up half a can and left it for 5min and started it up, it left a nice cloud when I first pulled away but that was it.. I even drove to somewhere remote cause I didn't want my neighbours calling the fire department.. I didn't need to go anywhere though.. I'm happy about this though, means my car has very little build up in it.
 
used the whole bottle of seafoam yesterday. poured into the oil and ran it crusing speed for about 2-5 minutes. drained the oil and poured some cheap 5W30 in there and ran it 2-5 minutes to make sure all the seafoam was out there. The changed the filter and oil and replaced it with mobile1 fully synthetic 5W30 and mobile1 oil filter. Car runs a lot smoother.

question I have is this. From all the posts I have read on seafoam on here, everyone talks about a lot of smoke after running seafoam. My car didnt smoke at all. I even ran some B12 I think its called through the vacum line to the the intake and it didnt cause any smoke as well. Was the engine just clean or what? I was waiting for a huge smoke out like everyone always says happens.

Either way, lifter tick seems to have stopped, atleast for now, and car seems to run a lot smoother.
 
How much did you suck up through the vacume line? The smoke is suppose to come after you suck about 75percent of the seafoam through that line.
 
The reason being is because you used seafoam that is intended for oil or gas. You did not use the Seafoam that is the spray type can which everyone uses to get through the vacuum lines.
 
There is a spray type? I have a can right here and it can be used 3 ways. It can be poured into your gas tank, oil, or sucked through, each having diffrent results.
 
Although they do make a spray version, the reason you did not get the smog effect is because you poured it into your oil instead of allowing it to be "sucked" up through the intake. When Seafoam "burns-off" it creates the smog (and a lot of it).

The can (liquid) is used in either oil, gas, or sucked through the intake with each cleaning different parts of the engine.
 
He stated that he used B12 and sucked it in through a vacuum line in the intake. I have used the liquid form many a times and let it suck through the vacuum line. Just gotta get very careful because I have seen people hydrolock #1 cylinder because it will suck a whole can down in 2 seconds.
 
I've never used B12, so I can't say how it effects the car as far as "smogging" goes while in use.

I will agree that you definitely need to be careful while sucking Seafoam up through the BOV line and not let it suck-up too fast, although you would have to suck up quite a bit really fast for it to hydro-lock the motor. I would find it hard to believe that a 16oz can would do it.
 
I put a little of the seafoam through the vacum line as well. Not much just a cap full.

As for the B12 stuff, i was told its just as good as seafoam. Autoparts stores around here dont have the seafoam that can be sprayed or else I would have gotten some of that as well. I usually spray the stuff till I hear the engine rpms dropping then I let them catch up and spray some more. I had a old stick holding the rpms at about 1500 while doing this process.

Surely using both I got a lot of the carbon build up out. Well atleast I hope.

Car deff seems to run smoother.
 
I've never used B12, so I can't say how it effects the car as far as "smogging" goes while in use.

I will agree that you definitely need to be careful while sucking Seafoam up through the BOV line and not let it suck-up too fast, although you would have to suck up quite a bit really fast for it to hydro-lock the motor. I would find it hard to believe that a 16oz can would do it.

First time I ever did it, I started the car, shoved the BOV line in the can and it hyro-locked instantly and there was maybe 2oz left in the can. Gotta learn somehow.
 
A cap full will not make the car smoke. I ran 2 spray cans of Mopar combustion chamber cleaner (same as seafoam) on 2 separate days through the bov lines and it made a big difference in the way the car runs overall. Lots of smoke too!
 
I unhooked my boost gauge and put a long peice of vac line on the T. Had a buddy in the car keeping the idle up while I dipped the line in the bottle of seafoam. I'd dip it in, pull it out, ect. Smoked like a freight train then cleared right up. Not real sure about the need to change plugs or oil after that process but I did anyhow.
 
this stuff works GREAT used it many time before in my integra with a type r swap can feel the power after using it. used it in my talon works just don't put to much is will kill your motor!!!! found the longer you leave the car with it in there the more it works and breaks down everything in there
 
Alright, I got a question if you guys dont mind me asking. I have a 1990 Mitsubishi Galant LS as my daily driver with 145,000 miles on it. I'd love to do this to the galant but, like others have stated i don't want to hydro-lock the motor. Also, is this stuff alright for a non-turbo engine? I know where i need to suck it up through for the eclipse but i dont know where to suck it up in the galant? Does anybody have any tips to keep the motor from hydro-locking? And also if somebody could give me just a quick run-down on the step by step procedures to take when doing this. Thanks a lot and sorry for the highjack.
 
eh ive never heard of it hydrolocking, ive heard of it making your car stall tho, nothing that pulling the plugs, wiping them off, and then cranking it up again wont fix.

i guess to prevent it from hydrolocking, just use very small amounts, and if you have any bungs that go to your intake manifold, just run a tube into the can and pinch the tube so you only have to use small amounts. it will probably work on any bung out of the intake, u can probably do before the throttle body, and it will clean up the throttle plate as a +. its not rocket science, just have to get it into your motor somehow via intake. unless you have sensors or something, the seafoam cud wet those up and ruin them if you got them i suppose.
and it doesnt matter if your car is turbo or not, they still work the same way :)

your car will try to stall out when u put in the seafoam, if it does u will spend a while cranking it to start. but dont worry, its normal :p
 
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