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Seafoam killed my car and I broke my fuel line.

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From reading, Isopropyl actually isn't so very good for rubber hoses.
Our fuel systems have a total of around 22" of rubber hose which is easily accessible.

What else do you recommend for removing moisture from a fuel system?
 
Timing is dead on, and spark is something I should check for again. Maybe me and my multimeter need to check the wires. I'm not sure of how but Im sure google and youtube will teach me how to properly use it
 
Our fuel systems have a total of around 22" of rubber hose which is easily accessible.

What else do you recommend for removing moisture from a fuel system?
I don't know what the normal mechanism is (fuel additives?), but I've never had a problem with it. Perhaps it's a question of Isopropyl %?
 
Well I finally got the line leading from the filter to the engine off. Problem is the hardline leading to the filter doesnt want to budge AND its starting to bend (GOD*******). So now I'm faced with the harsh reality that if I break the line leading to the filter or damage it I will have fuel leaks in the future, so now I have to look into replacing fuel lines.

Aside from that the filter is filled with fresh fuel so obviously there is no obstruction of fuel to the filter or to the engine, from the fuel pump. So I can safely assume there is nothing wrong with my fuel. Unless its injectors which as I've already posted awhile ago, injectors are working fine based on the flooding I did of fuel. SO, spark or air has to be the problem... what the car told me was he fuel pressure solenoid. which should be arriveing from john in a few hours.... time to put the fuel systme back together and hope i didnt mess up that fuel line
 
Seafoam did kill my car. Trying to put the line back on and rebend the filter back to the right spot where the line was pinching from trying to remove it. The line broke. So now I have to come up with an improvised line... and alot of clamps. I will problably delete the filter all together because of this.... I'm so frustrated and sick of this BS already.
 

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Ty for your input.

Seafoam definatly killed my car. All the dirt and grim was knocked loose. Thank god the filter did its job. Which is why the ecu was giving me the fuel pressure solenoid malfunction. The correct flow and pressure couldn't have been present with my filter being that gunked up. This is only an educated guess though.

I'm gonna pickup some fuel hose from oriely and a fram inline fuel filter. Widen out that hardline where it broke and then clamp on hose to inline filter. Then use the oem filter to rail line to connect it to the rail. My injectors look clean enough but I might want to look into replacing those. I hit them with b12 but I'm gonna need to make my own injector cleaner to really get them clean. Rail was spotless so I think the filter did its job so injectors could be just fine
 
Ok. What is the service interval for fuel filter? 40k if I remember right off the top of my head? So that fuel filter is way way too old.
What is the dark fluid in the bottle?
It sucks but now would be the time to replace the stock fuel line with braided ss line or braided nylon. With all the fittings you need and a new inline filter that has a replaceable filter element. I think it's a little more than $200 thru STM... Other vendors have similar setups. The braided nylon line is easy to work with. Easy to cut and put into the fittings.
I've used seafoam many times over the years. Great stuff. I put it into the motor thru the vacuum line. I have no idea why you went overkill with it. It's not needed. I do half a can thru the vacuum system once a year. That's all that's needed. You probably have a ton of crap on the bottom of your fuel tank that was freed up by excess amount of seafoam and is now all thru your fuel system. Right off the bat is say you need to pop out your fuel pump and clean or replace the sock. That's the first thing to get clogged. The factory fuel filter has a paper element which I'm sure is full of crap now and severely past it's prime. Hate to see what is in your fuel injectors.

Don't jury rig fuel lines with clamps and hoses etc. No really don't do that. Fuel pressure in the 40s at idle. 1 more psi of fuel for every additional psi of boost past idle. That's a recipe for having a fuel leak spray fuel all over a hot engine. I am very careful and kinda anal about fuel systems. Considering its a system that can burn your car down to the ground.
 
I'm gonna assume the injectors are fine since it looks like everything clogged up at the filter. Microscopic nasties might have passed thru the injectors but nothing too serious. Car died from lack of proper fuel pressure. And refuses to start from lack of fuel. My quick fix should get it to fire up.

I don't buy from vendors really. So ill problably go with someone elses fuel line and fittings. But thanks for the headsup. But replacements of the entire hardlines isn't nessecary with my quickfix.
 
Ty for your input.

Seafoam definatly killed my car. All the dirt and grim was knocked loose. Thank god the filter did its job. Which is why the ecu was giving me the fuel pressure solenoid malfunction. The correct flow and pressure couldn't have been present with my filter being that gunked up. This is only an educated guess though.

The junk in your fuel tank/line was good to get out of there.

If you think that has anything to do with the FPS, then you don't know what the FPS does or even where it is located.
 
also; don't delete the fuel filter! It's a no brainer that you stirred up a ton of crap from the bottom of your fuel tank. Your old fuel filter hopefully saved your fuel injectors. Unless you drain and cleanout your fuel tank you've still got a ton of crap floating around in it which without a fuel filter is going to go straight thru to your fuel injectors and clog them.

I wouldn't have bothered replacing the FPS
 
Drop the tank clean it out, replace the fuel pump filter, replace the fuel line with the proper line either oem or braided, and use a filter. Also seeing all the crap that came out I would either clean your injectors or have them professionally cleaned. If you love your car or want it to last do things the right way bro.
 
Haha I remember when I broke that line. I did it intentionally though. Screw the OEM filter. Run SS line and AN fittings and never look back.
 
Is it possible the Seafoam cleaned the debris off the bottom of the tank and it's now clogging your fuel filter? That would be my next step.

I don't mean to toot my own horn, but... ROFL

Leon- Looks like it's time for SS lines! In retrospect you should have had one wrench on the filter and one on the fuel line. It would have helped to have the filter still mounted to the firewall. I would get SS lines with AN fittings, a new fuel filter, and a filter to rail kit. All the nasty stuff in the bottle was slowly poisnoning your engine so in this case Seafoam saved your engine in the long run. With a filter with AN fittings you will be able to change it much more easily.
 
TY for your input.

The filter was mounted correctly to the firewall. After applying a new seethru filter along with a modified line to reconnect fuel to the rail. I have discovered the pump and tank are in fine working order. Clean fuel can be seen entering the new inline fuel filter. And the fuel pump clearly works fine. The fuel pressure solenoid is located on the driverside firewall next to the brake fluid res.

Since fuel is now no longer and issue being all the gunk the seafoam knocked loose was caught in the previous filter. I think I should be looking at the coilpack and the sparkplug wires. But I'm not for certain. The injectors could in fact be clogged but that too is an uncertainty.

Anyone know of a handy how-to on how to text your coilpack?
The picture below is not great but it shows clean and clear fuel in the filter
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Just pull the spark plugs and keep them in the boots. Lay them on the valve cover and have a friend crank over the engine. If they all spark, your good. If 2 are dead and 2 fire, it's a bad coil. If they dont spark at all, something else went wrong.
 
That line probably will not hold the pressure. I would atleast cut the line clean and flare a new fitting on it so you can use a stock filter. That would be the correct way of fitting the line . Dont rigg it you end up having to clean up that mess later on.

EDIT:
For the coil pack you can also used a multi meter and measure the Ohms of resistance on the primary and secondary windings.
Search how to test coil pack and it will show you how to do so.

have you verified you have enough fuel pressure. Just because its flowing does not mean theirs the proper amount of pressure
 
I predict a "Sea foam burned my car down" thread soon.


Fix your damn car properly. You are getting plenty of GOOD advice, why wont you follow it?

Look at your old fuel line, from the tank all the way to the engine it is a HARDLINE with the exception of about 2 feet. One foot from the tank to the hard line, and about a foot from the filter to the fuel rail. And those 2 feet are HIGH pressure lines terminated with HIGH pressure fittings, that are CRIMPED on.

Worm drive clamps should NOT be used in a fuel system.

Fix it with a proper line, either hard, or braided line with AN/JIC fittings, and put a proper fuel filter on.

Also, what's your beef with buying from vendors?
 
Holy shit, that filter is not made for fuel injection. That is made for 5-8 psi on a carb setup. IT is going to rupture and you will have bigger problems. You could get away with a nissan inline filter, some fuel injection hose and fuel injection clamps, but that filter is a fire waiting to happen. Take this thing to a shop before you burn the car and yourself up.
 
Phunny TY for your input.

I have personally seen these inline filters on many cars and have yet to see one rupture. And as I said before it is a temporary solution and a quick fix to see if the car will start. And the onyl way to verify that the pump is "gummed" up is to open it up. I had an issue earlier with this, encountering another stuck nut on a fuel line leading into the tank. Rather than risk bending or breaking another hardline. I simply went to this quick fix and "verified" the pump is indeed still working. Which it is- as for working at the "proper pressure"- no I am not sure.

After replacing what the ECU told me is malfunctioning didnt fix the issue, now I know is another issue.

Which I think is spark Or air.
 
Phunny TY for your input.

I have personally seen these inline filters on many cars and have yet to see one rupture. And as I said before it is a temporary solution and a quick fix to see if the car will start. And the onyl way to verify that the pump is "gummed" up is to open it up. I had an issue earlier with this, encountering another stuck nut on a fuel line leading into the tank. Rather than risk bending or breaking another hardline. I simply went to this quick fix and "verified" the pump is indeed still working. Which it is- as for working at the "proper pressure"- no I am not sure.

After replacing what the ECU told me is malfunctioning didnt fix the issue, now I know is another issue.

Which I think is spark Or air.

Unless you left a boost leak tester on your intake you are getting air. Checking spark is easy, like someone said, pull the plugs and hold on to them and have a friend turn the car over. Do this one at a time and if you don't feel anything then you aren't getting spark. If you wanna take the wimp way out, just take out the plugs and let them set on your VC and watch as someone turns the car over, they should spark.
 
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