SAFC low throttle baseline numbers

[MyBeatGSX]

Can any give me some approximate low throttle settings for precision 550cc's based on my setup? I want to be able to drive the 20 miles to the dyno without any problems. I found some for a similar setup to mine on (I believe) RRE's site, but I'd like some second opinions.

Setup is in the profile

 

[spoolup]

it will vary from car to car. You can just do this:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58403
and get it based line. Even the WOT runs so you spend less time on the dyno and it will cost conciderably less. honesly your car has the basic upgrades and can be street tuned pretty decent before getting to the dyno. I would follow the before listed link.

 

[FastGS-T]

(450/550)-1 = -18%
(old injector / new injector) -1 = % change


according to the formula i say take 18% out across the board, but i only know that formula as THEORY, so wait on another reply to back me up or not

but that should be the equivalent of what 0% was with your old injectors

 

[weith1111]

Just leave it as is, you'll be fine for 20 miles. Put your High settings at -5 across the board. You'll be running rich, but at least safe. And the ECU should be able to make corrections for your fuel trims. It's too hard to guess at this, just make sure your FP is correct and stay out of boost. Taking out 18 could make you super lean. I'm at like -10 or -11 at most, and that's WOT, during cruising I'm only at like -4 and the ECU is overriding because my FT's are like 112 and 120. Be safe. Each car is different and you could have problems that might require your settings to be different than you would expect. The tuning will take place at the shop, not on the way over. Keep it like that.

And get yourself a logger so stuff like this won't be a concern in the future!

 

[larsenracing]

i had basicly the same setup and running the stock fp i left the low throttle %'s at 0 because the computer still could correct enough and i found that becasue i had dyno tuned it just after putting the afc on. at 17 psi.

 

[MyBeatGSX]

Ok there's one large problem with the info in that link, and someone else pointed it out. I have no logger. I plan on getting one soon, but I don't have it know and won't for awhile.

What larsen said seems to make sence, 550's aren't that much bigger. Maybe I'll give that a try.

As for tuning on the dyno. Its a dynojet so I can't tune part throttle and I don't plan on paying $175 an hour to use the dynapack just to tune low throttle.

Here's what I got from RRE. Based on what I can see with their setup on that car, if I used these settings I should be running on the rich side. I'd probably go 2-3% richer just to make sure.

2G Turbo
Big 16 G Turbo, Apex Cat Back, RRE DP-3" Cat, Filter, 19psi, Front Mount I/C, Walbro 255 HP in tank pump, 550cc Injectors, honeycombs all in, Adjusting screw left alone, Big GReddy FMIC

Low Setting:
1K +-2 2K -4 3K -6 4K -10 5K -10 5.5K -10 6K -10 7K -10
High Setting:
1K -21 2K -23 3K -24 4K -23 5K -22 5.5K -22 6K -21 7K -18
TH-Point
Lo 30% Hi 80%

The other problem is that the AFC II has 12 adjustment points, what do you guys have yours set at? I did mine something like 1000, 2000, 2600, 3000, 3600, 4000, etc ending with 7200.

 

[MyBeatGSX]

Alright, I got the 550s in. Surprisingly it started and idled almost normally (if a bit rich) with all the corrections at zero. I've been going off my narrowband and just shooting to keep it in the middle. Seems to be running fine with the low throttle set like this so far:

1k: -1
2k: -2
2.6K: -2
3k: -3
3.6k: -4
4k: -4
4.6-7.2k: -6

I've got dyno time planned for tommorow after work. In the mean time I have a few concerns....

The O2 sensor isn't cycling correctly while cruising, when it does its only between the 2 stoich LEDs and not lean to rich or lean to stoich like it should. It cycles normally at idle about 75% of the time.

The engine idles like crap (lots and lots of light misfires and the AFC knock count was at 5 one time.. whatever that means). I've tried everything between -5 and 0 to get it to idle normally. I don't see why it should have to go positive to correct.

When cruising on the highway the O2 cycles seem to go progressively leaner until I let off and get back on it. At which point it starts from normal and then proceeds to again go progressively leaner.

Yes I KNOW I need a pocketlogger. But I don't have the money this week (need to spend it on the dyno) so please give me a little help troubleshooting without it.

 

[2gGSX]

There is nothing we can really do for you without a datalogger of some sort. The only thing we have to go by is that you have 550cc injectors, and as stated above -18% across the board will at least compensate for this. Try this to see if it corrects your idling problem.

As for the knock, you are only pulling a maximum of -5% fuel which is not enough. The knock is most likely caused by you running too rich, so instead of adding fuel try taking away more fuel.

 

[MyBeatGSX]

Well the results are in. And the results say 2 things. #1 stock side mounts suck horribly. #2 small turbos suck too.

After all was said and done and the intercooler was heatsoaked far beyond being useful, the car ripped off a run of 232hp and 264lb/ft @ 19psi. Looks to me (and everyone else that was there) that timing is being pulled pretty good due to the useless intercooler. Also of note to explain the low hp number is that the guy tuning it let off at only 5800rpm because torque was falling. After getting home I compared it to some other cars' dyno charts (particularly the Evo VIII) and noted that torque drops off harder and earlier on many of them but power still climbed until at least 6500rpm. So if run to redline I'm sure power would have been closer to 240-250hp. Oh well, life goes on. Power is only a number anyway.