running out of options >blocking fiav cure this ?

[burnnxs]

wass up if you can help me it will be awesome please read thru all of it .

still have problems with idle going really low almost dying coming from 2k or lower ,anything higher going in to neutral it dies
i have no noticeable leaks or none at all

my replace list.... tb shaft seals, new gaskets in tb and intake mani has a new plastic "heat spacer" , no leaks on bov .not venting. new intercooler core , replaced isc motor from a 94 dont remember what it read but i slapped it in the old one was dead, , it helped with idle but it is still jerky, at idle going from 750 to 780 down to 718 ,94 eprom ecu ,adjusted biss grounding it , tps at 10% with logger, fuel press is set with aeromotive afpr

my fuel trims are as followed low fuel trim goes from 100 to 86, mid trim is solid 103 ,high trim solid 90 //// -7 on the low and hi throtle at 1k on the safc
where should my hi throtle be set at 1k ?

should i block of my fiav ? with a plate or fully remove it ?there is cold weather here not sure witch way to go

is it normal for my low trim to move that much around?

 

[justin_5585]

i know you've replaced those seals, but have you actually done a boost leak test?

 

[burnnxs]

i have done a boost leak test im doing another one this weekend .

fellow dsm'rs can anybody answer the other q's ??

does a bad fiav let unmetered air pass the tb?

 

[brute]

If the FIAV is bad, it would have idle surge and such when the engine is cold, but once warmed up, it should be fine. The ISC takes over when the engine is at operating temperature.

So if your FIAV is broken (stuck open or stuck closed), you will get different effects. Can you explain in greater detail your symptoms? Does it idle fine when warm? Does it drive fine? Does it idle fine cold?

 

[burnnxs]

still have problems with idle going really low almost dying coming from 2k or lower ,anything higher going in to neutral it dies
i have no noticeable leaks or none at all

idle but it is still jerky, at idle going from 750 to 780 down to 718
my fuel trims are as followed low fuel trim goes from 100 to 86, mid trim is solid 103 ,high trim solid 90 //// -7 on the low and hi throtle at 1k on the safc
where should my hi throtle be set at 1k ?

should i block of my fiav ? with a plate or fully remove it ?there is cold weather here not sure witch way to go

is it normal for my low trim to move that much around?

i do experience a lil bit of surge: if it is not fully warmed up and i drive itonly if i drive it is really noticeable but after it gets to temperature it gets pretty steady still can hear like a lil "humming" still moves around a lil from 780 to low 700's when i put the clutch in it dropps to high 600's
thanxs for taking a minute and replying

 

[burnnxs]

if i remove the bottom piece of the tb and block it . will i still have to worry about the isc motor?

 

[burnnxs]

dsm wiseman help !!
andymoratis your words would be much apreciated .

defiant you havent comment on this yet what do you think

 

[burnnxs]

nobody ??

 

[dsm-onster]

i do experience a lil bit of surge: if it is not fully warmed up and i drive itonly if i drive it is really noticeable but after it gets to temperature it gets pretty steady still can hear like a lil "humming" still moves around a lil from 780 to low 700's when i put the clutch in it dropps to high 600's
thanxs for taking a minute and replying

It mighy be just me, but I really don't worry about idle issues until the engine warms up. I don't drive my car anywhere until it warms up.

I do worry about boost leaks. Does it begin doing this when warmed up after a BOOSTED run? Something is "swelling" and sealing when your car comes to full operating temp. Causing a leak on cold starts. . . If you run a boost leak test when cold, you should likely find it. If not, then the leak is IN the TB (from on side of the TB plate to the other).

 

[burnnxs]

It mighy be just me, but I really don't worry about idle issues until the engine warms up. I don't drive my car anywhere until it warms up.

I do worry about boost leaks. Does it begin doing this when warmed up after a BOOSTED run? Something is "swelling" and sealing when your car comes to full operating temp. Causing a leak on cold starts. . . If you run a boost leak test when cold, you should likely find it. If not, then the leak is IN the TB (from on side of the TB plate to the other).

thanks for the input
boost leak when its cold check dont remember but ill do one again soon
well after it warms up the idle does move from low 7's to high 7's "humming" and it stalls after mid rpm's(2500 +) if i let my foot of gas while driving or standing.i have to decelerate on gear everytime or it will die so idle when it warms up i still worry

 

[burnnxs]

If not, then the leak is IN the TB (from on side of the TB plate to the other).[/QUOTE
please explain

 

[seth98es]

If your ISC is bad then the car will definitely surge when the car is warmed up. I have eliminated my ISC completely with the JMFab blockoff plate. The only Idle issue I have is on cold starts, I need to give it a little gas to keep it running since the FIAV is blocked off, once its been running for 30sec-1min it will idle steady. Once the car is completely warmed up, it will idle perfectly at whatever I set the BISS to. Also dont have any stalling issues when downshifting or just pressing the clutch in and coming to a stop.

If you live in an area where you drive the car when its very cold out, it probably not the best option but it shouldnt hurt, just cant use a remote start.

 

[dsm-onster]

If not, then the leak is IN the TB (from on side of the TB plate to the other).

please explain

The FIAV is a purposeful leak around the throttlebody plate that allows the ecu to control minor amounts of airflow during idle situations. It never sees the atmospere though. If the valve is not respond or is gunked up, then the valve may be stuck too far open. this would constitute a leak IN the throttle body. Hope this explains it.

ALSO, The throttle plate could be too far open at zero throttle position. this would cause the engine to rev up then the idle switch would cut the injectors off. This would repeat as the throttle position is such that too much air is being injecsted to keep the engine at 750 rpms. . .

Both cause idle surge.

Speaking of the idle switch, have you disconnected it to see to what rpm the idle rises?

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Good Info in here... http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=259300

 

[yokotabrat]

Might want to check into the speed sensor as a potential problem. On the back of the speedometer, there is a reed switch that sends a signal to the ecu of the speed of the car. Idle speed is different when the car is not moving vs when it's moving. If the sensor is dead it'll try to drop the idle down to 750 instead of something higher initially. Easiest way to test would be to grab a buddies gauge cluster and swap that into your car. Or log the speed sensor if you have access to a logger.

 

[burnnxs]

Good Info in here... http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=259300

really easy to understand how it works are there any difference on side effects between 1g's and 2g's?

 

[burnnxs]

Might want to check into the speed sensor as a potential problem. On the back of the speedometer, there is a reed switch that sends a signal to the ecu of the speed of the car. Idle speed is different when the car is not moving vs when it's moving. If the sensor is dead it'll try to drop the idle down to 750 instead of something higher initially. Easiest way to test would be to grab a buddies gauge cluster and swap that into your car. Or log the speed sensor if you have access to a logger.

my car has about 110k on it how likely is it for it to go out ?

(havent seen that option) how do i log it on my p logger? what is the service range ?

 

[yokotabrat]

my car has about 110k on it how likely is it for it to go out ?

(havent seen that option) how do i log it on my p logger? what is the service range ?

I'm unsure how long they last. My old car with 178k never had a problem, however I've heard of people having to replace it far before that. It's not a common failure, though, which is why most people forget about them.

According to pocketlogger's website, they don't list being able to log the speed sensor. If you have MMCD, you could probably set up a custom sensor and log address C6, I believe. That should be the address for the speed sensor. If the value changes when you move, your speed sensor is working. Unfortunately, my DSM is down, otherwise I would verify this for you. Hope this helps.

 

[burnnxs]

my fuel trims are as followed low fuel trim goes from 100 to 86, mid trim is solid 103 ,high trim solid 90 //// -7 on the low and hi throtle at 1k on the safc
where should my hi throtle be set at 1k ?


is it normal for my low trim to move that much around?[/B]

^^^^

 

[dsm-onster]

It seams that mine does the same as qute a few others. I'm uner the impresion that as long as the low trim is w/in 20 percent (80-100) then you're OK.

 

[burnnxs]

i dont get were to set the hi throtle on 1k ?

 

[dsm-onster]

how often are you at high throttle at 1K? Does it cut out at 1K? Drive like you normally do for about a 3 days (from my experience). Look at your trims and adjust where you see over 10 percent deviance. The low trim moves due to lots and lots of variables. . .

 

[burnnxs]

exatly my low throtle is set
should i 0 it out ,set it like the low thortle??

 

[yokotabrat]

More than likely, it won't matter what you put the high throttle 1k rpm setting at. The SAFC will probably never switch over to using that correction setting since the tps required to switch to high throttle is probably set fairly high and you usually don't drive at high throttle and 1k rpm. If the SAFC never uses that correction, you can put whatever you want for that setting. Probably best just to leave it at 0.

 

[burnnxs]

More than likely, it won't matter what you put the high throttle 1k rpm setting at. The SAFC will probably never switch over to using that correction setting since the tps required to switch to high throttle is probably set fairly high and you usually don't drive at high throttle and 1k rpm. If the SAFC never uses that correction, you can put whatever you want for that setting. Probably best just to leave it at 0.

that i can understand