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2G Running 2 altenators

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dallasadkins90

10+ Year Contributor
104
0
Apr 2, 2011
dayton, Ohio
has anyone ran 2 altenators on a 2g before? looking into getting the jmfab alt. relocation kit and running one their also one in the stock location. looking to switch my l7s and kicker 2500.1 into the gst out of the tahoe and wandering what problems if any ? and should i relocate my main battery to the trunck with the 2 kenetics??
 
I've been toying with the idea. However, unless your Kicker 2500.1 (most likely Class D) can suck down more than 200amps of current (and I highly doubt it)...you shouldn't have to go that far.

Do a search on the Saturn Alternator Swap and snag yourself a 200amp alternator from MotorCity Reman. I've done this to both of my 2Gs and if I had a 3rd one, I'd do it to that one as well. Upgrade to 1/0awg charge and ground wire and use a 200amp circuit breaker between alternator and battery...and a 250amp circuit breaker between battery and distribution block for your sound system.

I'm at the point in one of the cars where I'm not sure if the 200a unit will handle:

Re-Wired Walbro 255HP
Dynatek ARC-2
Transmission Cooling Pump (ShurFlo)
4x HID ballasts
Eclipse 16V Balanced Head Unit
Bass Processor
Zapco Amp Control Unit
Zapco DSP Processor
Zapco DC360.4
Zapco Ref 1000.4
Zapco Ref 750.2
Power Inverter + Laptop

I guess we'll see once the build is finished (err...started). :D

Also regarding the battery relocation: I would avoid doing so. Placing the battery farther away from the alternator will not help charging. Running proper gauge wire to your amps from the battery should suffice in keeping everything happy. Add capacitance next to the amplifier(s) if needed.

Aside from the electrical reasons NOT to relocate a battery...think of the weight distribution of your typical DSM. I'm a FWD guy at heart, so let's consider just the balance of the front, and consider whatever we have in the rear due to the AWD drivetrain a bonus for rear traction. On one side you have the aluminum-cased transmission that is decently heavy, but you can lift it without too much strain. On the other side you have the cast iron 4G63 block mated to a decently stout chunk of aluminum up top that brings the center of gravity up quite a bit. Then we'll add the A/C compressor, alternator, timing components, oil filter housing, etc. Quite a bit heavier on that side, but then you add: YOU driving the car. Maybe we should try for as much weight as we can get over that transmission, eh? Add to that all the guys that like to dump their wastegates right in front of the tire on the very heaviest corner of the car...I just don't know what people are thinkin' sometimes.
 
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