-Running 10s when I haven't run 12s-

[Wicked_Sick]

So basically Im trying to get everything set up to get my 95GSX into the 450-500hp range on 91 gas.


Im currently in Iraq, and so I cant really do anything at all but make parts lists and read until I get back.

I bought a 95 gsx when I was home on midtour, picked it up for 4500. Currently has 78xxx miles, a GReddy big intercooler, 3" exhaust, KN Intake, HKS Super Sequential blow off valve, ACT 2100 clutch, brand new napa alternator , 4 way adjustable suspension, not sure on brand.

The car will be a daily driver, but I have other vehicles I can drive when it breaks

Im for sure going to get rid of the body kit if I can find a donor front and rear bumper, or someone who wants to trade

Id like to drop in a 6bolt, but would it be safe to assume that because Its made 78k without crankwalk its going to make another 78k? Id rather take out and sell the 7 bolt and buy a 6 bolt to put it. Would it be better/cheaper/more work to find a junkyard 6 bolt and take the whole car, and rebuild the engine? Or buy a manufactured 6 bolt like a BR stage 1,2,3 or dsmgraveyard frankenstein or the like?


Fuel:

Going off of DSMsource.com Forums Id like at least 1000cc, maybe 1150cc injectors, a 255 walbro rewired, or a denso 260 in order to handle 55ish lbs/min of air.

I havent found much about fuel rails, will I need an aftermarket fuel rail to handle this much fuel?

What all would I need with a Weapon R Fuel Pressure Regulator 2?


BOV:

I need to pick up a recirculator kit, anything else?


Boost Controller:

I like the dual stage mbcs, and in particular the TurboSmart with the rocket launcher switch TurboSmart Dual Stage Boost Controller - Boost Controllers - DSMparts.com


Clutch:

Ive got the 2100 already, will it successfully handle 500hp? Everyone says the 2600 is a lot harder on the left foot, how bad is it, and do I need it? Can I buy the 2600lb pressure plate and drop in?

Is it worth spending 250$ on a new flywheel or how much cheaper is it to take weight off the mitsu flywheel?


Gauges:

I dont like the 3 pod pillar setup, and want to keep my a/c so I cant put them in there, and not getting rid of the stereo either. Where else can I mount them, its hard to visualize what the interior looks like when I havent been in the car for a while.

Already have an autometer boost gauge, I have an EGT but its not hooked up, and an A/F but I dont know what kind, and it doesnt show a number, just a lean/rich kind of thing. Ill be getting a AEM UEGO and DSMLinkii


Air:

Apexi GT Spec downpipe
Some kind of O2 housing


Block:
Full rebuild kit with arp everythings
Would 9.0 pistons be right for me?
Crower Rods
Crower 272/272 cams
Balance shaft eliminator
What else?


Turbo:

Turbo Specifications. - evolutionm.net
Ive been looking at the FPGreen or 20g, but probably go with an fpgreen unless someone talks me out of it.
Also been reading about Holset turbos, but havent learned enough yet to make a decision.

Im sure theres a ton of stuff Im missing or forgetting, just typed this up quick at work.
Thanks for any input, comments, suggestions or flames

 

[xe0]

So basically Im trying to get everything set up to get my 95GSX into the 450-500hp range on 91 gas.

Is that at the wheels or the flywheel? 450-500whp is quite a lofty goal on California piss fuel. Not saying it isn't possible, but it would be a hell of a lot easier with meth injection or e85.

Im currently in Iraq, and so I cant really do anything at all but make parts lists and read until I get back.

I bought a 95 gsx when I was home on midtour, picked it up for 4500. Currently has 78xxx miles, a GReddy big intercooler, 3" exhaust, KN Intake, HKS Super Sequential blow off valve, ACT 2100 clutch, brand new napa alternator , 4 way adjustable suspension, not sure on brand.

The car will be a daily driver, but I have other vehicles I can drive when it breaks

Im for sure going to get rid of the body kit if I can find a donor front and rear bumper, or someone who wants to trade

Id like to drop in a 6bolt, but would it be safe to assume that because Its made 78k without crankwalk its going to make another 78k? Id rather take out and sell the 7 bolt and buy a 6 bolt to put it. Would it be better/cheaper/more work to find a junkyard 6 bolt and take the whole car, and rebuild the engine? Or buy a manufactured 6 bolt like a BR stage 1,2,3 or dsmgraveyard frankenstein or the like?

First off, thanks for serving, stay safe out there brother. I wouldn't assume that because you have made it to 78k that it won't crankwalk. I have seen posts from people that have had crankwalk at 190,xxx and 200,xxx. If I were you I would just run with what you have considering it's working fine as 400-500hp is certainly doable with a good tune on stock parts.

I'm sure you would save a good amount of money sourcing your own engine and building it up vs a already done up race block from one of the vendors. It is nice though if you don't have the time to source everything and do your own labor to have an experienced dsm shop do the work for you.

Fuel:

Going off of DSMsource.com Forums Id like at least 1000cc, maybe 1150cc injectors, a 255 walbro rewired, or a denso 260 in order to handle 55ish lbs/min of air.

I havent found much about fuel rails, will I need an aftermarket fuel rail to handle this much fuel?

What all would I need with a Weapon R Fuel Pressure Regulator 2?

The stock dsm rail flows fine for what you are wanting. If you would like to remove any restriction I would consider a aftermarket fuel filter with -6an braided stainless line to the rail.

For your fpr, you just need to adapt it to the fuel rail with a 1/8 npt thread. Heres a kit Part Number 958-112-102

BOV:

I need to pick up a recirculator kit, anything else?

Depending on what spring is in your bov, you may need a stiffer one to support your boost. Although if I recall the HKS BOV has a stiff spring in it.

Boost Controller:

I like the dual stage mbcs, and in particular the TurboSmart with the rocket launcher switch TurboSmart Dual Stage Boost Controller#-#Boost Controllers#-#DSMparts.com

Looks nice, wish I had the funds for one .

Clutch:

Ive got the 2100 already, will it successfully handle 500hp? Everyone says the 2600 is a lot harder on the left foot, how bad is it, and do I need it? Can I buy the 2600lb pressure plate and drop in?

Is it worth spending 250$ on a new flywheel or how much cheaper is it to take weight off the mitsu flywheel?

Your clutch is not going to cut it. It might last a little bit but it's going to be slipping like crazy when your at 500whp. I don't know if the disc for the 2100 and the 2600 is the same but if it is, you should have no problem just swapping the pressure plates out. I would look into the SBC kevlar setup that has been proven to work great. Heres a good thread to read http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/309864-title-change-opinions-act2900-vs-act2600-useing-sbc-kevlar-disk.html

I would avoid trying to lighten the stock flywheel and just go with an already lightened ACT or Fidanza. Too often machine shops don't do the "best" job and with a circular metal disc that spins at 7000-9000rpms it's not something I would want to cheap out on.

Gauges:

I dont like the 3 pod pillar setup, and want to keep my a/c so I cant put them in there, and not getting rid of the stereo either. Where else can I mount them, its hard to visualize what the interior looks like when I havent been in the car for a while.

Already have an autometer boost gauge, I have an EGT but its not hooked up, and an A/F but I dont know what kind, and it doesnt show a number, just a lean/rich kind of thing. Ill be getting a AEM UEGO and DSMLinkii

Well, if your completely against an a pillar setup, you could look into steering wheel mounted gauge pod here is some examples Gauge Pods for the Mitsubishi 2G Eclipse-Talon

Air:

Apexi GT Spec downpipe
Some kind of O2 housing


Block:
Full rebuild kit with arp everythings
Would 9.0 pistons be right for me?
Crower Rods
Crower 272/272 cams
Balance shaft eliminator
What else?

Timing components, water pump, oil pump, rod and main bearings, OEM gasket kit, revised lifters. Be sure to check the condition of your crank pulley. Look for abnormal wear on the inside of your front case and if it's there consider replacing your crank pulley.

As for your compression ratio, it seems the higher it is, the easier it is to knock on pump gas, but you make more power off and on boost. Considering your trying for 450-500whp on 91 pee water I would think you might consider a lower compression ratio for your goal.

Turbo:

Turbo Specifications. - evolutionm.net
Ive been looking at the FPGreen or 20g, but probably go with an fpgreen unless someone talks me out of it.
Also been reading about Holset turbos, but havent learned enough yet to make a decision.

Both fp green and the 20g will fall short if your goal is 500whp(once again you need to specify flywheel or wheel hp). The Holset turbos seem to be great performers for the cost. I would not hesitate to put one on my vehicle and this is what I'm leaning towards.

Theres a huge 4 part thread and a million others scattered across forums on the internet with positive feelings towards Holset.

Heres the "t00ners' thread if you somehow missed it http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/145691-holset-turbos.html caution it's long.

Im sure theres a ton of stuff Im missing or forgetting, just typed this up quick at work.
Thanks for any input, comments, suggestions or flames

No flame here, just search, search, search, , search, search, when you think your done, search some more .

Good luck brother, Adam

 

[ApexVIII]

yea you cat get 400-500 on 91 pump(only) rofl.... well if you can it will not be easy

your best bet if you are not going to go to E85 then get meth injection that is really your only hope

 

[Wicked_Sick]

I wouldnt be against meth injection

Or just as long as its 500 capable with race gas when I hit the dyno or strip, and whatever it would be on 91 for when Im driving to work.

 

[airmail96]

If your get a single din cd player you could probably fab up something and place the gauges under the cd player. Only thing would be that now you have to take your eyes off the road and look down at the gauges. I know they make a 2 gauge pod that replaces your stock gauge trim.

 

[ApexVIII]

I wouldnt be against meth injection

Or just as long as its 500 capable with race gas when I hit the dyno or strip, and whatever it would be on 91 for when Im driving to work.

meth is great, it turns pump in to race gas

if you are going for 500AWHP your turbo will have a decent amount of lag, and would not be fun on the street on 91 pump only, but meth would make it alot of fun

im waiting to install my meth kit

 

[PIMking]

Hes from minnasota not cali. I dont know if 91 is the only fuel he can get up there or not.

 

[Wicked_Sick]

Theres e85 in minnesota, but im stationed out of texas, and thats where ill be driving most.
Ill read more about meth injection.
Thanks for the replies all

 

[Defiant]

Even stranded in the sand, we're not doing bench racing for you.