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RPM's go lower when engages (new clutch)

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YoYo_4G63

15+ Year Contributor
187
4
Sep 5, 2008
Carolina, Puerto Rico
I've adjusted the clutch pedal, bleed the system to make the car work with the ACT 2600 and at least its works, but when in neutral i push the clutch to put 1st gear or reverse the rpm's goes lower, almost to shut off the engine :confused:

6bolt balanced engine, new master & slave, SS complete line, flywheel, clutch & disc, even the extended rod for the slave. The only 2 parts that are old is the fork and pivotball.

Thanks:banghead:
 
I've adjusted the clutch pedal, bleed the system to make the car work with the ACT 2600 and at least its works, but when in neutral i push the clutch to put 1st gear or reverse the rpm's goes lower, almost to shut off the engine :confused:

6bolt balanced engine, new master & slave, SS complete line, flywheel, clutch & disc, even the extended rod for the slave. The only 2 parts that are old is the fork and pivotball.

Thanks:banghead:

Hello friend.
This thread myght help you

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/429365-rpms-drop-when-clutch-pushed.html :thumb:
 
So when you push the clutch in and leave the car in neutral do the RPM's still drop? Or only when the transmission is put into a gear?
There is a thread describing how to adjust your clutch pedal itself, I'll find it and link to it.

You see the rod? it threads through the clutch pedal bracket there (part of the clutch pedal assembly), that rod is kept from turning by the jam nut on the firewall side of that bracket, go ahead and loosen the jam nut and typically back that rod out of that bracket a little bit and then retighten the jam nut.
See how the clutch performs after. You have the ability of over extending the clutch disengagement which will be just as bad as under extending it. So play with it till you find a sweet spot.
 

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Tiki2777 said:
Wow ha hahahaha ha... No wrong.

Do you even know what's going on when you take your foot off the clutch?

The RPMs will always dip slightly on almost ANY car. Adjust the idle slightly if it's that big of an issue.

Learn what the #### you're talking about before you tout off smart ass remarks.
 
I've adjusted the clutch pedal, bleed the system to make the car work with the ACT 2600 and at least its works, but when in neutral i push the clutch to put 1st gear or reverse the rpm's goes lower, almost to shut off the engine :confused:

6bolt balanced engine, new master & slave, SS complete line, flywheel, clutch & disc, even the extended rod for the slave. The only 2 parts that are old is the fork and pivotball.

Thanks:banghead:

Well, it sounds to me like the clutch is not releasing all the way. I see the extended slave rod which makes me a little worried, as that is a band-aid for not being able to get a clutch to release all the way. And the only two parts that you didn't replace are the clutch release fork and the pivot ball, both of which can give you symptoms of a clutch that won't fully release.:toobad: I just would rather have seen the new pivot ball and clutch fork with no extended slave rod and everything properly adjusted first so you are not chasing your tail trying to compensate for worn out parts. Good luck! :)
 
Do you even know what's going on when you take your foot off the clutch?

The RPMs will always dip slightly on almost ANY car. Adjust the idle slightly if it's that big of an issue.

Learn what the #### you're talking about before you tout off smart ass remarks.

Yes a slight dip, not almost stalling like his actual problem.
Your point is completely invalid
You need to learn, dumbass
 
Tiki2777 said:
Yes a slight dip, not almost stalling like his actual problem.
Your point is completely invalid
You need to learn, dumbass

Suck it.

Adjust the idle, if the crank has excessive end play it'll go kaboom in a little while.
 
Thanks to all was that efiing extended rod was the problem, now is perfect.
 
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