Rough cranking. please help!

[IrshFF]

this has been going on for a while and i have just neglected it because of what the guy told me when i bought the car (i was very ignorant about cars until recently). I have had my 98 GST for a while now and have enjoyed researching and doing my own work. i have been unable to find anything about this specific problem so i am hoping somebody can give me some insight.

First, when i crank the car sometimes it wont crank up the first try, it just makes a really high whining noise. then once i stop turning the key it sounds like an abrupt thud. then usually will crank right up the next try. although sometimes it requires me to repeat that a couple more times before cranking. sometimes giving it a little gas helps i think. but im not positive.

Also, once i start it, it idles really rough most the time, at really low rps and sometimes dies. then after a few minutes it straitens itself out.

the guy i bought it from said that it had to "warm up" and that he would usually crank it then go in and brush his teeth and it would be ready when he was done. i don't understand why it would need to do that. i want to be able to start it up and drive it immediately at full force if i wanted ( i wouldn't do that, just an example) without having to wait 2-5 minutes for it to "warm up".

i am also contemplating upgrading my fuel rail, pump, and injectors soon, i think that would help my performance, i think i have been leaning out. i have an AEM air/fuel gauge and it usually idles around 15 which is good. but when i really get on it, it will shoot down to 10 like it wants to go lower but the gauge wont allow it.

i have a 1998 Eclipse GST with a 16g @19psi. what injectors, fuel rail and pump should i get for that?

finally, i have been hearing another weird whining noise coming from whatever line runs under the passenger backseat ( i believe that's the gas tank, sorry for my ignorance ). what could that mean?

sorry for such a long post. i have just had these issues and they are the main things stumping me completely and i feel they need attention soon. i needed to describe in full the problems.

thanks for everything guys!

 

[95tsiemad]

First of all 19 bound on stock fuel system is too much get some 550's and walbro 190 and a 1g rail I would keep the boost at 16 17 psi and some way of tunning maybe a safc or dsmchip
Bought the cranking problem could be you isc of tps and get a datalogger will reall yhelp out and since you have a 2G you could take your local part store and the can check for with a scanner

 

[IrshFF]

whats a good brand for injectors that arnt too expensive. im on a budget. and what do you mean by 1g rail? like a stock rail off a 1g eclipse?what is isc of tps? and what all do i need to hook up a data logger? and what is a good one to get. or should i just wait till i can get a laptop and get dsmlink? how do i lower my boost? i tried to do that until i can fix the problem and upgrade my fuel delivery but i cant figure it out. i have a manual boost control and i thought all you did was turn the knob in the direction that says - boost. so i did that and it still goes up to 19 psi.

thanks for the quick response.

 

[95tsiemad]

Will check your Gage and yes and fuel rail of a 1g. I got some rc 550's on eBay fir like 100 bucks in good condition you just need to search find deal and walbro 190 is like 100 dollars to I would not get on it at all for now until you get that stuff and a datalogger is easy to put in just google dsm cables and you'll find it and a tps throttle position sensor. And a isc Idle speed sensor

 

[crashman1972]

10 is rich you probably want to make sure your injectors are still stock in fact 10 is as rich as an aem can read! As far as your whine noise I have had 2 2g's do the same replace the starter the Bendix is going. The whining noise will be the fuel pump I would pull it and see if it has been upgraded yet if not get a wally 255 no sense in wasting money on a 190. Running a 16g already you really need to look into fuel management like either a SAFC or something similar you will have to research I am a 1g guy I follow a different set of rules ! In the end we are all close to the same. Also you might want to replace that MBC or maybe the check the vacuum lines running to it if you turn it own boost should lower.

 

[95tsiemad]

Actually a walbro 190 would be fine he would need a afpr for the 255 and like he said he on a budget

 

[crashman1972]

AFPR is suggested but not required unless the 2g setup is weaker than the 1g. I have 255's in both my 1g's and my 2g and none of them have "over ran" yet. If you plan to upgrade later down the road run more boost or injectors don't screw with the little fellow. I think he needs to worry about fuel management first 10's on the ole wide band is indicating fuel is without a doubt getting there! The not wanting to run after start-up well if the injectors are upgraded already then it is flooding it out when cold start kicks in.

Let me add, you may want to check the coolant temp sensor.

 

[IrshFF]

first off thanks for the replies guys. im thinking im going to go with the 255 but i dont know what rail to get, i dont feel great about getting a 1g rail for a 2g car and the AEM rail got bad reviews because it leaks. also, what injectors should i go with that arent too expensive, i know 550cc but what brand isnt too expensive yet reliable. and what else would i need to upgrade that area. i have never messed with that kind of stuff, i wont have a problem figuring it out i do a lot of research and am very careful, i just need to be sure i have all required parts to do it. i can do the rest. like i read some stuff about a pressure regulator, am i going to need something like that. and will i need to tune right off with a new pump rail and injectors? or will it run fine with no fuel management tuning.

next, i have just replaced about all of my vacuum lines so i know there is no vacuum problem, so i dont know what to do about my boost. i definately wanted to lower it until i made this important upgrades.

i am also planning on getting dsm link once so i will wait on the data logger till i get that. so i get the whole package and only have to spend the money once.

where is the coolant temp sensor and the idle control sensor. and what am i looking for when i "check" them?

thanks for all the help!

 

[dcmarf]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...047-2g-engine-bay-electrical-connections.html

This link will show you where everything is. Search and read everything is on this site.

 

[crashman1972]

I am not sure you are reading what is being said before asking more questions. Before upgrading anything figure out what is wrong with what you got! Verify stock injectors are installed. If you are reading 10s on the wideband under heavy throttle you have a problem that needs to be corrected before moving on.
If you are worried about money don't mess with changing the fuel rail it will do fine. If you want cheap decent injectors pickup a set of used evo's that someone upgraded from. Like i said before some people recommend adding a AFPR but I don't run one on any of my 3 nor our 11 sec automatic car and have no problems. You more than likely will need a tunning device once you swap injectors. Or it will just increase more fuel and cause it to run rich.
Verify your boost controller with this... http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/357433-mbc-install.html
If you are going to use DSMlink there is no nee at all for a data logger it logs as well as tunes in fact it uses its logs to tune.
Your coolant temp sensor is located on your water neck http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/237701-coolant-temp-sensor-plug-picture.html

good luck

 

[IrshFF]

thanks everyone for the helpful posts!