Rod bearing wear

[jen_cairo]

Why is there more wear on the upper rod bearing than the lower rod bearing?

 

[jen_cairo]

Jen I can't believe nobody has suggested a magnetic oil plug!?! I bought my first GSX last year and just got done with the rebuild after the engine failed this past fall. My bearing on piston 1 was completely melted to the rod. The first thing I looked at getting just in case I missed any metal during the rebuild and subsequent flush was a Buddy Club transmission and oil pan magnetic plugs. There are less expensive options out there also.

What is a Buddy Club transmission? I never heard of that.. And where do you think I can buy a magnetic oil drain plug? Thats a great idea, I neve thought of that.

 

[CoachDavis]

What is a Buddy Club transmission?

I never heard of that.. And where do you think I can buy a magnetic oil drain plug? Thats a great idea, I neve thought of that.

Sorry, I meant Skunk2. That was a magnetic transmission plug and magnetic oil plug. Brain disconnect there. Found the Skunk2 set on eBay for 29.99 including shipping. Or generics for $20.

 

[JusMX141]

Magnetic plugs are always a good idea- they're a great way to monitor how much metal is deposited into your oil between changes.....the trouble is they only pick up steel- no aluminum or copper / brass.

 

[CoachDavis]

Magnetic plugs are always a good idea- they're a great way to monitor how much metal is deposited into your oil between changes.....the trouble is they only pick up steel- no aluminum or copper / brass.

True!

 

[Falcon55]

The old turbo blew because it was full of metal from the failing rod bearings. VERY common problem.

How much oil pressure was reading when the engine was running?

Whoa hold up! My rod bearings have failed too and my engine is knocking strongly. I'm swapping out the motor next week but i'll still be using my current stock T25 turbo from the original engine. Does that mean metal shreds/shavings from the rod bearings may have f***ed up my turbo aswell!?

 

[jen_cairo]

Whoa hold up! My rod bearings have failed too and my engine is knocking strongly. I'm swapping out the motor next week but i'll still be using my current stock T25 turbo from the original engine. Does that mean metal shreds/shavings from the rod bearings may have f***ed up my turbo aswell!?

Could very well happend...you have to look in a chilton or mitsu book to find the oil passages, and route...but anything is possible. If I were you I would take the snap ring things off the turbo and take it apart and check physically...its free and not that hard on the original turbos...I've seen a couple people as well take them apart..it probably takes 10 mins or so..

 

[JusMX141]

Whoa hold up! My rod bearings have failed too and my engine is knocking strongly. I'm swapping out the motor next week but i'll still be using my current stock T25 turbo from the original engine. Does that mean metal shreds/shavings from the rod bearings may have f***ed up my turbo aswell!?

Yep, your turbo's trashed. Even if it doesn't have shaft play right now, it's full of metal (restricting all oil flow) and will blow in 200 miles or less on your new engine, dumping all of the turbo's internals into your oil pan through the oil drain tube.

Still think it was a good idea continuing to drive your car after it began knocking?

 

[Falcon55]

^Well , when considering my turbo, then of course not.

Well there's only one way, i'll take off the intake and check the turbo myself (i've done it before). I'll check for shaft play and all, the only problem I have is disassembling a turbo, i've never done that yet.

If anything, i'll go to the mechanic and as he's doing the swap, if it's as easy as you say jen, then i'll grab some tools and disassemble my turbo over at the mechanics, then check for metal shavings/shreds. The inlet pipe may be safe, but it's the outlet pipe that worries me.

 

[JusMX141]

A T25 that's never been disassembled is a BEAR to get apart. The large snap ring that holds the compressor cover to the center housing likes to corrode into the cover (aluminum cover, steel snap ring). It can take days of soaking with PB Blaster, heating the outer rim of the compressor cover, and even a hammer and punch to get that clip to move to the point where snap ring pliers will even think about removing it.

I've already broken tips off of my giant 16" snap ring pliers because of a stuck compressor cover snap ring on a T25. When I assemble one of these turbos I use an ample amount of anti-seize on the snap ring where it contacts the housing and in the snap ring groove itself to prevent future corrosion and galling.

 

[Falcon55]

^Well that's good to know, .

Let's say the snap ring isn't corroded, then it should be a piece of cake, right? But if it is corroded, then any tips on removing it much easier and safer?

 

[jen_cairo]

^Well that's good to know, .

Let's say the snap ring isn't corroded, then it should be a piece of cake, right? But if it is corroded, then any tips on removing it much easier and safer?

You also have to take in consideration that this car is from cali. so there is no rust anywhere on it...If its not corroded then it should'nt be that hard..

 

[Falcon55]

^Well tru and Cali is pretty much like Florida, so I shouldn't have to worry. My engine doesn't really have rust, it's clean inside (if you checked out my other threads with pics/vids of my engine bay). So I think i'm good.

 

[jen_cairo]

^Well tru and Cali is pretty much like Florida, so I shouldn't have to worry. My engine doesn't really have rust, it's clean inside (if you checked out my other threads with pics/vids of my engine bay). So I think i'm good.

I seen you were from florida after I posted it..
I'll check them out..

 

[Falcon55]

Lol, yeah. I think Justin is trying to make me worry an extra bit, .

C'mon, just look how he describes it. My turbo will blow and it's internals will drop into my oil pan, .

 

[JusMX141]

Think what you want- here are two pieces of a grenaded T25 thrust plate that ended up in a guy's oil pan:

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The pic is bad quality, but I know what the part is and where it came from.


Not trying to scare you; more like giving you a worst-case real-world scenerio.

 

[Falcon55]

Naw I hear ya, i'll take that into consideration. I'm going to take a look at my turbo anyway while my mechanic is swapping out the motor.

 

[CoachDavis]

Hey Justin, I stopped driving mine immediately! What is the likelyhood of shavings getting into the turbo area after only 5 miles?

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Why is there more wear on the upper rod bearing than the lower rod bearing?

Just some thought on this. The upper bearing is always going to have more wear to it than the bottom. Think about it. When the piston is being forced down in it's bore during combustion, it's putting lots of pressure on the top bearing. Then, when it's returning to TDC it's being pushed up by the crank against that top bearing. Not as much pressure during the exhaust stroke but more during the compression stroke.

 

[JusMX141]

Hey Justin, I stopped driving mine immediately! What is the likelyhood of shavings getting into the turbo area after only 5 miles?

Immediately from when the noise started? If that's the case, there's still probably lots of metal that circulated through your entire oiling system. There has to be a decent amount of metal missing from a rod bearing before it makes a sound audible enough for you to shut the car down.

 

[CoachDavis]

Justin you were right! I hadn't even thought about the metal being suspended in certain areas. I checked everything again and I found a lot in the oil cooler. Cleaned it out and moved on to the turbo, the oil feed and oil return, all clear. And now I am confident that it's all good!