2G Retorque ARP head studs

[tsunari]

Ok, I realize that when retorquing anything, you are supposed to loosen the bolt/nut in question, then torque it down once again. Is this the same with ARP head studs? I have them torqued to 85-90 lbs and was going to drive around for a while, then re-torque. Or should I just check to make sure they're still torqued and not losen them?

 

[Defiant]

Ask ARP. Re-torqueing has become a practice of the past for many gasket suppliers.

 

[tsunari]

In the process of contacting them now . . . has anyone tried this method:

". . . when installing a new bolt where the stretch method can not be used, the bolt should be tightened and loosened several times before final torque. The number of cycles depends on the lubricant. When using ARP recommended lubes, five loosening and tightening cycles is enough. This will 'break in' the threads sufficiently."

 

[Suparata]

Originally posted by tsunari
In the process of contacting them now . . . has anyone tried this method:

". . . when installing a new bolt where the stretch method can not be used, the bolt should be tightened and loosened several times before final torque. The number of cycles depends on the lubricant. When using ARP recommended lubes, five loosening and tightening cycles is enough. This will 'break in' the threads sufficiently."

The head studs are not stretch ones. The ARP rod bolts are stretch type and that's where a stretch gauge has to be used.
Mitch.

 

[Slappster]

What kind of torque spec tool do you use to know what lb/ft your at?

 

[sonicnofadz]

I re-used my six bolt head studs, and torqued them to 80 ft-lbs . Holds 15 PSI without any problem...doesn't push coolant, and I never even bothered to retorque. I haven't driven it that much after the headgasket job, so I might decide to retorque soon...but I wonder if its even worth it with re-used stock head bolts.

 

[Defiant]

Head bolt torquing has gotten weird over the last couple of decades or so. It used to just be a simple matter of torquing to spec, running for an hour or so, cooling off and retorquing. Then Fel-Pro came out with gaskets that said they didn't need retorquing. Now we're up to torque-to-length (stretch spec), torque-to-angle and still plain old torque-to-value.

I'd not heard of the "cycling" idea before. But you should go with whatever your equipment's maker says.

 

[tsunari]

ok . . . just got off of the phone with ARP and the tech suggested that due to the different expansion rates between our head & block, that one should go back and check that everything is still torqued down to spec. There's no real need to back-off all of the nuts from the studs and then re-torque them, just make sure to use the same torque wrench as before and double-check to make sure they're all still torqued down to whatever they were torqued to in the first place.

I personally did mine something like 15-30-60-90 with ARP moly lube.

Hope this helps others.

 

[Defiant]

Ah- important detail there- thread lubrication. Too-often overlooked by the casual engine builder, and too crucial during professional assembly. Even the specific type and amount is specified by the high-zoot parts makers.

 

[jrpmp69]

I was told by ARP to not torque the head studs more than 70 ft. lbs., even though i am installing an SCE copper head gasket, or the studs may break. I called SCE and was told to not torque them more than what ARP had suggested. I would like to know myself what all these people using ARP head studs are torquing theirs to.

 

[tsunari]

I've seen some thread where people have torqued or had recommendations to torque to 90+, so that's what I did . . . hmmm- maybe I should contact ARP again and find out what the deal is. I'd hate to have over-torqued something and it warp or break a part.

 

[00 Agent]

ok . . . just got off of the phone with ARP and the tech suggested that due to the different expansion rates between our head & block, that one should go back and check that everything is still torqued down to spec. There's no real need to back-off all of the nuts from the studs and then re-torque them, just make sure to use the same torque wrench as before and double-check to make sure they're all still torqued down to whatever they were torqued to in the first place.

I personally did mine something like 15-30-60-90 with ARP moly lube.

Hope this helps others.

Interesting...I just got off the phone with them and the tech I talked to said I should install them and torque to spec, start the engine and let it get up to operating temperature, shut it off and let it cool down overnight, the back off all the nuts until there's no load on them then re-torque them.

Don't you just love conflicting information? I think I'm going to retourque them just so I'll sleep better at night...

 

[tsunari]

*sigh* Yeah . . . conflicting info does suck :thumbdown