arp head stud retorque......

[jderosa]

i had installed arp head studs and a cometic head gasket while i was builing the 6bolt for my dsm. i just got the car back with the motor in it 150miles ago. leaking oil really bad now and looks like its coming from the head. if i retorque the head studs do i need to remove the nuts completely and put more moly lube on it or can i just crank them down as it is. i originally torqued them to 80lbs should i go higher?

 

[blueninteytwo]

haynes lists 65-72 for cylinder head bolts. so unless cometic or ARP say otherwise, you're gonna have to pull them.

i don't typically reuse those type of fasteners myself, but i also understand that a set of them is like $80 or so.

also, you do know there's a pattern for torquing the head down,right? to make sure everything seats properly....and to avoid leaks.

pull it apart, start over. have someone more knowledgeable tell you about reusing the head gasket and fasteners.

 

[jderosa]

arp says to torque them to 80lbs, which i did. and yes i know the pattern and did it. the headgasket and headstuds have 100 miles on them.....

 

[Epic904]

I believe of the top of my head with Arp headstuds with the use of their moly lube is around 90-95 ft-lbs of torque, with 10w30 motor oil it is close to 110 ft-lbs. The torque specs are listed on the paper that comes with the headstuds. I retorqued mine to 100 ft-lbs after breaking in the cam on my motor.

 

[SlipGear]

just retorque the nuts on the top of the headstuds. I did 80 ft lbs

 

[NewTurboTuner]

just retorque the nuts on the top of the head studs. I did 80 ft lbs

yeah thats what I do ...just retorque them again.
I check (and retorque if necessary) mine every once in awhile when I know I'm going to push my motor hard. I've been going 95ft-lbs and last week went to 100ft-lbs but I have the Mitsu 4-layer metal head gasket.

 

[jderosa]

well went to retorque them and started with 80lbs and they didnt seem to move so torqued them to 95lbs.

 

[ZmanIV]

Did you back them off one at a time before you re torqued them?

 

[SonySlave]

When I rebuilt my head about 3000 miles ago, I used a brand new OEM Mitsu headgasket and torqued the headbolts to 80ft./lbs. with ARP lube like the instructions said. But I started pushing a lot of coolant and overflowing my coolant tank. So I retorqued the studs to 100ft./lbs. and haven't pushed a drop of coolant since, and it's seen several trackdays and a lot of hard tuning pulls.

 

[jderosa]

i was just checking to see if they were loose or not but they werent

 

[AndrewD5418]

Did you back them off one at a time before you re torqued them?

Wouldn't that cause uneven pressure and warp the head or something? Nobody on here has yet explained how to retorque.

Just take the wrench and go at it in the original torque pattern Middle bottom) without backing off?
Back it off starting with original torque pattern (Middle bottom), and just go straight to 100?

 

[Artago]

Wouldn't that cause uneven pressure and warp the head or something? Nobody on here has yet explained how to retorque.

Just take the wrench and go at it in the original torque pattern Middle bottom) without backing off?
Back it off starting with original torque pattern (Middle bottom), and just go straight to 100?

Old thread, same question. Back off then re-torque or just torque without backing off.

Also, I'm using a Cometic HG and ARP studs. 80lbs/ft or more?

Thanks,

Tom

 

[talon14turbo]

Old thread, same question. Back off then re-torque or just torque without backing off.

Also, I'm using a Cometic HG and ARP studs. 80lbs/ft or more?

Thanks,

Tom

What is the answer?

 

[keltalon]

What is the answer?

Its amazing that nobody seems to know

 

[romeen]

When you re-torque the ARP's you should back the nut off 1/2 turn and then torque to spec before moving on to the next one. You do not need to completely remove the nuts and it should not be necessary to apply more moly-lube. Follow the same pattern as when you installed them from 1-10.

 

[david harker]

Top of head left to right .1/7/5/9/3 bottom left to right 4/6/10/8/2

 

[NHerron]

Always retorque.

However, just before you do, make a mark down stud and down side of nut. On a cold engine, and with the torque sequence in mind, loosen a nut one turn or less, and torque it to the final spec. Don't need to go in steps or overcomplicate anything. Just one at a time loosen and retorque the nuts.

Remember the marks earlier? The nut is usually a 1/4 turn ahead (tighter) now.

 

[OneMoreVR4]

to retorque loosen them a bit and tighten back to spec one at a time. ive found on dsms its usually not nessesary. the problem might be that u used a cometic head gasket without making sure ur block and head r perfectly flat and clean. they need to pe bear perfect or cometic gaskets have trouble sealing