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[RESOLVED] My car is running like it has 272 cams...but the cams are stock

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yeah the bosch plugs just suck...I DID check the wiring on the SAFC and it was all correct so I just took off his crimp connectors and soldered the connections!

I honestly dont know if it is rich anymore..cause this narrow band A/F gauge sucks...I ordred a wideband the other day so it should be in soon!

what temp sensor are you talking about? the coolant temp sensor or like an intake temp sensor?
 
Coolant temperature sensor. If it's broken, the engine will go into a loop thinking it's never fully warmed up and will continue to dump excess fuel for cold startup.
 

OK thats sounds like the problem! the guy i bought the car from has an aftermarket Fuel Pressure regulator....could it be adjusted wrong? there is a Gauge on top of my Fuel filter too.... It is at 45-46psi while idleing? should i turn that down to 43.5? or is 45 okay?
 
That is very high while idling if the vacuum line is connected. With the vacuum line disconnected it should be around 43 psi. Unless it has been base tuned (global and deadtime) with that particular higher fuel pressure.
 
That is very high while idling if the vacuum line is connected. With the vacuum line disconnected it should be around 43 psi. Unless it has been base tuned (global and deadtime) with that particular higher fuel pressure.

No I dont think it was tuned by anyone...im not sure what vaccum line you're talking about?

So I should LOWER the Fuel pressure? I think all my Vac Lines are connected...so what should i set the Fuel pressure at?
 
No I dont think it was tuned by anyone...im not sure what vaccum line you're talking about?

So I should LOWER the Fuel pressure? I think all my Vac Lines are connected...so what should i set the Fuel pressure at?

Disconnect the vacuum hose while idling and set the fuel pressure to 43.5psi with a gauge. Reconnect the hose.
 
So am i dissconecting ANY vaccum hose? or should I take off a specific Hose? There is a gauge on top of my fuel filter...down next to the battery....CAN I RELY ON THIS GAUGE??? or should i get a service gauge?


edit...Okay I adjusted the Fuel pressure to 43.5 with the Vacuum hose off the FPR...then I Re-attached the Vacuum hose to the FPR and now my fuel pressure gauge reads 40psi whiles idling.

That didn't make any diffrence in the car ideling like it has a set of big cams in it thoght :(

I cant firgure out why i still have a PO505 CEL ..I have replaced the ISC unit and the light still came back on two days later?? what else would make the car throw a po505 code?
 
Having your idle fuel pressure (your FPR vacuum hose connected) at 40psi means that you're vacuum at idle is only 7 inhg. Do you have a vacuum gauge? It would really help knowing your vaccum. You could have an intake manifold leak. Or leaky vacuum hoses. I'd do a boost leak test again. Maybe you missed something.

Running on 3 cylinders can give the impression of a lopey idle. Check to see if any of your cylinders arn't firing, by pulling the fuel injector pigtails one at a time. This means that you have to remove the metal clip for each with a flathead screwdriver. If the idle doesn't change, then that cylinder is the problem cylinder.

I'm leaning towards a blown headgasket because of your compression numbers. I've put in a teaspoon of oil in a couple of my head gasket incidents and the compression went up. Apparently in my case, the oil filled the leak.
 
Having your idle fuel pressure (your FPR vacuum hose connected) at 40psi means that you're vacuum at idle is only 7 inhg. Do you have a vacuum gauge? It would really help knowing your vaccum. You could have an intake manifold leak. Or leaky vacuum hoses. I'd do a boost leak test again. Maybe you missed something.

Running on 3 cylinders can give the impression of a lopey idle. Check to see if any of your cylinders arn't firing, by pulling the fuel injector pigtails one at a time. This means that you have to remove the metal clip for each with a flathead screwdriver. If the idle doesn't change, then that cylinder is the problem cylinder.

I'm leaning towards a blown headgasket because of your compression numbers. I've put in a teaspoon of oil in a couple of my head gasket incidents and the compression went up. Apparently in my case, the oil filled the leak.

I have a Vac/boost gauge....in the car...what should my Vacuum be while idling?


I don't think its running on 3 cylinders...The Car RUNS great when im driving it...but it just idles funny...I have checked the plugs and they are all burnt the same and look perfect!

My coolant and oil levels look fine and there is no oil in my antifreeze...could my headgasket still be bad?

I need to check harder for boost leaks, but i have been so busy at work lately I haven't had time to do another Test....I guess a boost/vac leak would cause my Idle control CEL
P0505 right?
 
My wife drove to work 60 miles awayevry day for a week and didn't know anything was wrong. The idle was choppy but once you gotup in rpms everything seamed fine. She didn't bother me because she though the idle should have been lopey because she knew I had a cam upgrade.

Idle vacuum stock cams: 18-22inhg. 272s: 15-18inhg. 288s: 11-15inhg.
 
My wife drove to work 60 miles awayevry day for a week and didn't know anything was wrong. The idle was choppy but once you gotup in rpms everything seamed fine. She didn't bother me because she though the idle should have been lopey because she knew I had a cam upgrade.

Idle vacuum stock cams: 18-22inhg. 272s: 15-18inhg. 288s: 11-15inhg.

OKAY my car only has 11inhg on my vac/boost gauge while idling :(

I did another boost leak test for 2 freaking hours...I pump up the system to 18psi and it goes back to ZERO within 15 seconds?!?! I LOOKED EVERYWHERE for leaks...I found some small leaks here and there like the BISS screw and some clamps on vac hoses but nothing big...

WHERE is the air going? could my valves be leaky?

If I unplug my ISC the idle DOES NOT change AT ALL?? could this NEW ISC be bad?
 
A leak down tester will tell you. Considering you have low compression on certain cylinders, some of your valves could be bent or burned, or you could have a blown head gasket. I doubt you have worn rings (as long as you maintained the oil so far). Has the car been driven hard and seen alot of detonation?
 
A leak down tester will tell you. Considering you have low compression on certain cylinders, some of your valves could be bent or burned, or you could have a blown head gasket. I doubt you have worn rings (as long as you maintained the oil so far). Has the car been driven hard and seen alot of detonation?

Im going to have to try that. I dont think its seen alot of detonation...at least not while ive had it...but it does seem to have a lot of carbon build up in it....should i try sea foam or will that not clean the valves
 
Ok I did ANOTHER boost leak test cause i haven't had the money to buy a leak down tester yet.

Here's what's going on, I only have 10 hg Vacuum when idling... I know thats WAY too low. I have NO EXTERNAL leaks.....I took off the oil cap and I here some air inside there. Are my Valves NOT seating or what?

What would cause LOW vacuum other than a massive leak?

This has got to be the answer to my poor idle...but i can't find the leak.

I mean this car runs EXELLENT when at WOT! but at idle it sounds like a 70 chevelle with big ass cams.

:talon:
 
I know you have said you have checked the timing marks. But you kind of threw me off when you said with a light and with it running. Did you just check the ignition timing (meaning when the spark hits cylinder 1 it lights the light and you can check the base timing on the crank)?? OR did you pull off the timing belt cover, place the crank @ TDC (Top Dead Center) and make sure that the cam timing is correct (both cam gear lines match up and are level all the way across)? Here is a link to the VFAQ regarding the timing belt and the timing marks. I believe your cam timing is off by one tooth. 2g Timing Belt Install
 
I know you have said you have checked the timing marks. But you kind of threw me off when you said with a light and with it running. Did you just check the ignition timing (meaning when the spark hits cylinder 1 it lights the light and you can check the base timing on the crank)?? OR did you pull off the timing belt cover, place the crank @ TDC (Top Dead Center) and make sure that the cam timing is correct (both cam gear lines match up and are level all the way across)? Here is a link to the VFAQ regarding the timing belt and the timing marks. I believe your cam timing is off by one tooth. 2g Timing Belt Install

YEs I Did take the cover off and Line the timing marks up and they come together but almost seem as if they are not level across. They kind of point up. So I am probably OFF a tooth huh?
 
Yea it sounds like your intake cam is advanced a tooth and your exhaust cam is ratarded a tooth. Take a straight edge and center it over both cam sprocket bolt centers. ALL FOUR cam sprocket marks should line up when the crank is at TDC.

I bought my car like this and it idled like a formula one car; terrible lope. I did not bend any valves. But the stock 1990 turbo intake cam has 8 degees less duration than the 1995-1999 intake cam. You could have bumped your intake valves... But I doubt it.
 
Well You guys were right... MY TIMING IS OFF :( looks exactly like you said...the intake is advanved 1 tooth and the exhaust is retarded 1 tooth. How bad is this for my engine?

Obviously I'm goin to fix this problem right away...but my question is, Did I do serious Damage to the Motor now? It doesn't sound like any valves are hitting the pistons. I don't hear any Knocking or other harsh sounds.

That would explain my LOW vacuum and The P0505 Check engine light that i have cause of that LOW vacuum

The guy I bought this car from said he changed the T-belt 18,000 miles ago ... I sure hope it hasn't been like this the whole time :( Im just going to remove this T-belt and RE-DO the whole job...cause the car has a goodyear Gatorback belt on there and those suck. I would rather have the factory one for $30 more. Any how if the car has been driven like that for 18,000 miles would it have done any major damage?

Thanks guys for all the help!

:talon:
 
I have seen a couple motors run like this for extended periods of time and they did not suffer any damage. Glad to hear you found the problem and we could help you out. But really the only thing to do is put it all back together and pray for the best. Shoot, i've seen a one of my buddy's Escort GT with the 1.9L SOHC engine throw a timing belt. He just put a new timing belt back on and was good to go! He didn't even bend any valves. Good luck. Let us know how it is. :thumb:
 
I have seen a couple motors run like this for extended periods of time and they did not suffer any damage. Glad to hear you found the problem and we could help you out. But really the only thing to do is put it all back together and pray for the best. Shoot, i've seen a one of my buddy's Escort GT with the 1.9L SOHC engine throw a timing belt. He just put a new timing belt back on and was good to go! He didn't even bend any valves. Good luck. Let us know how it is. :thumb:

i to have see this on a 91 CRX with a B16... the lower crank pulley fell off, and the T-belt came off the crank sprocket, then off the cams, and it just died... my friends went home, and got a set of ratchets and fixed it right their on the side of the road, fired it up and went back to driving his "super fast honda" no damage done. :rocks: hope for the best! if it was running, i doubt their is any damage. i have had my exhaust cam off by 1 tooth many times... its just a pain in the ass...
 
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