272 cams lopey at first, then after driving normal

[LOWBOOST91]

Now I have seen the post where the cams are just not lopey but this has truly blown my mind!

I just installed HKS 272 cams, They idled lopey when I first cranked it, had a nice chop to it. I was loving it well I let it warm up then I drove it, after getting back from driving it, the car starts idling normal?!?!

My mods are as follows-

20g turbo (stock boost)
Ebay front mount
turbo back exhaust
the hks cams
stock injectors
ecmlinkv3 lite
1g cas (not sure why its just the one that came on my car)
1g throttle body

idle screw is set all the way in

other suspension stuff too but im just listing the stuff that matters...

I'm still searching for info on this, I looked last night as much as I could. I'm looking today to see if I can find something.

I will let you guys know if I do, I was wondering if any one could give any advice,

basically I'm thinking the ignition timing is adjusting to the fix it the idle. That's the only thing I can think of right off the top of my head, I know that evo guys have to adjust their timing in their computer to get lopey idle with hks 272 cams

I know it sounds crazy but the main reason I got it was for the lopey idle.

any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated

stock cam gears sorry forgot that

 

[lil corb]

What is your ISC position while idling? It should hover around 30 with no accessories on and fans off after warmed up for proper idle learning.

 

[LOWBOOST91]

I will take a look at that, If it is off replace it again, it will be the 100000th one I have gotten. I would seem that could be the cause. I am at work right now but I can check it either this afternoon or tomorrow.

OK, so the isc is good, I don't have any intake leaks, I think I have narrowed it down to needing a 2g cas the 1g cas. The throttle cable is fine, the biss screw is fine, the only thing I can think of is that the computer is correcting the timing by advancing it raising my idle until. I tried retarding the timing but it just evens out. I feel regardless of whether it is needed or not I want to go back to a 2g cas. Hopefully that will fix my problem

 

[LOWBOOST91]

I have concluded that I need an air fuel sensor, looking on link with my car running it doesn't fluctuate like its supposed to. It just sits at .06v.

 

[boost97gst]

I can barely remember how stock cams sound. The Crower 272s i have now have a nice rumble to them. Thing is about turbo cars, especially 2L inline 4 turbo cars, is that "lope" that sounds so cool may be a sign that the cams need to be degreed in. Every cam is different so i cant say for sure in your case.
Anyway i have read from other much more experienced members here and machinists that on our cars overlap is not good. More power, better response the less overlap you can get dialed in.

Thats neither here nor there, and you seem to have found a major problem. Best of luck with the car.

Edit: You have HKS. They are supposedly the only "plug n play" or "drop n go" cams on the market. You most likely do not need to degree them.

 

[Steve93Talon]

I have concluded that I need an air fuel sensor, looking on link with my car running it doesn't fluctuate like its supposed to. It just sits at .06v.

I wouldn't jump to that conclusion yet. Are you running speed density? Do you have a wideband? When you first start the car, you're in open loop. Then once the car warms up it should be switching to closed loop. This could explain the change in idle you're noticing. Your fueling could be off, causing the AFRs to go lean. If the sensor is bad, you can get a wideband (which you should have anyway) and use it to simulate the narrowband signal to the ECU. Also, it's always a good idea to post a log when asking tuning related questions.

 

[LOWBOOST91]

Thanks for the responses guys. I agree with what you guys are saying, I think just at the end of the day I need to get my car tuned, I have a few other things I want to have taken care of before I actually get it tuned. Just to make sure I don't run into any hiccups while its at National Speed. I want the transition to be smooth. I have pretty much accepted that there is nothing I myself can do about it right now and have decided to move into things I know I can fix. Such as the axles, I need a new front mount, I want to re wrap my wiring harness to make it look better. I have a small oil leak I want to fix that's on my drain tube for my turbo, I really should have waited on the cams. It was a bad decision to start with, I should have went with a front mount, But what is done is done, just got to move forward and learn. Next on my list is a vrsf intercooler, rewrap the harness, fix the oil drain leak, new 1g throttle body, and egr delete.

 

[untouchablecc]

Make sure your o2 sensor is cycling after the car is fully warmed up and in closed loop mode. If its not its dead. You can log that in link. Another reason why you might lope more is due to being leaner on a cold start. Once the engines warmed up your not as lean and the lope isn't as prevalent. I do not have a specific explanation to why the engine lopes more when its leaner with cams but they do. My friends and I were messing around with link and we took the first airflow slider and dropped it down real low and leaned the car out at idle just for the heck of it. With BC 272s you would of thought I had a cammed up big block under the hood. We put the airflow slider back to baseline and it idles almost like stock.

 

[LOWBOOST91]

I messed with link a little more basically all I had to do was make it stay stuck in open loop and set the idle.