The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

[RESOLVED] Car will not start. HELP

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

97gstjosh

15+ Year Contributor
689
0
Aug 10, 2007
Chardon, Ohio
Ok so A couple of days ago I was driving my car around like normal. That night I went home and parked my car in my garage. The next day I went out to start my car and nothing happened. It didnt click or anything when I turned my key. Its been really cold here like 10-20 degrees outside. So I borrowed a 450amp battery jumper kit from my uncle. I hooked it up and turned the key and my car started but as soon as we unhooked the charger my car died. So the next day we went out and tried it again and my car would only crank but would not start so we figured my battery was to far gone. I just replaced my battery last year it was a 525 cold cranking amp battery. after that again my car wouldnt even click again. So last nite we went and got another battery (it was free because of the warranty) they said it would charge but as soon as you put a load on the battery it just died) So we went home and put my new battery in and left it over nite to start it in the morning when it was kind of warmer (everything worked lights radio it clicked and dash lights came on etc.) So today I go out to start my car and nothing it wouldnt even click again. It was like that battery was totally dead already. Im so confused I tried searching but no one is having the same problem as me. Is it my starter or alternator or what? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks alot guys :thumb:
 
Did you get the car to start when you went out and got the new battery? The battery just dies over night? Maybe a grounding issue? If you get the car started with the new battery, let it run then disconnect the battery, if the alternator is good the car should still run after you disconnect the battery. If the alternator is bad then the car should die after you disconnect the battery, also take note that a wire could cause the same effect if you have a grounding issue or a loose wire or something. Comment back and let us hear an update
 
Yes when I brought the new battery home I waited until today to start it and it was the the battery was already dead. No clicking no nothing. Last nite the battery had some charge because the car clicked and the lights came on and everything but I didnt try to start it until today.
Im lost so possible a ground went bad?
 
If it's possible try and get a different battery and start the car up as soon as you get it in, but my guess would be an electrical problem. More than likely probably a ground that came loose, your battery shouldn't lose it's charge over night unless there is something not grounded and it's taking the energy from the battery. I doubt it would be your alternator if the car just dies over night, if it was the alternator the car would die while you were driving it because it wouldn't recharge the battery as the car used the power. If your starter clicks, and you can turn your car over then I think that should be okay. My guess would be check your wires for any grounding issues. You haven't changed anything recently or done anything that could have caused something to come loose?
 
Yeah, check the grounds and see if anything came loose, I don't see a new radiator or a cam cover messing anything up (hopefully!) LOL. Sorry I'm not much help, I'd give you some specific points to check if I was anywhere near my car. I'm in Germany and my car is still in the states -_-! I had a problem close to what you're having with my battery dying over a couple nights and it turned out to be a grounding issue. So hopefully that's what it is for you, hope everything goes well bro
 
Ok I ckecked the ignition fuse. It was fine.
Latest update I hooked that 450amp jump starter up and my car started
and is running what should I look for. I still have the charger hooked up bec. last time I unhooked
it my car died. Should I go unhook it and see what happens? I mean I am eventually going to have to unhook it LOL. Should I let it run for a little?
 
Let it run for a while and let the battery get a charge back in it, after you get it charged up for a while try and unhook the charger, if it still runs try and unhook the battery, if the car dies then I would check out the alternator, if the alternator is good the car should stay running even after you unhook the battery. If it dies then I'd get the alternator checked to see if that's the culprit, I still don't see why your battery would die over night if was just the alternator? Maybe that'll be the problem, I was hoping for just a grounding issue, cheap and easy :(
 
Thanks man I will update in about 20mins or so :thumb:

Ok update I unhooked the charger and it still ran :thumb:
Now there is the big positive wire that runs to the battery
and a set of small wires that runs from my fuse box to the battery too.
We lossened the small nut and pulled the fuse box wires off and my car died.
We put those wires back on tightened it back up and the car started again
but the battery voltage wont go above 12.7-12.8 with the jumper hooked up
and its been idling for about 15 mins. With the jumper unhooked my battery
voltage is at 11.8 and not rising.
Does it take a little longer for the battery to charge back up to like 13.7-13.8 or is my
alternator not doing the job and thats my problem?
Let me know any more insight. Thanks for all the help so far guys :thumb:
Also on the side with my car started and running my base fuel pressure is
reading 35 shouldnt it be 42.5?
 
I just read another article that says normal voltage at idle is 12.5v and anywhere from 12.5v-14.0v while you're driving. They state that anything less than 12.5v could be your alternator on it's way out. The haynes manual says that you should have 14.0v and anything less than that could mean a defective alternator. I'd hate to suggest it because they're not cheap but that could be one of your problems. Autozone should be able to test your alternator, don't know if you'd dare try to drive it there, but maybe you could take it out and have them test it? Sounds like a good place to start if you can't find any ground wires or anything. The belt to the alternator isn't tensioned too tight or slipping is it? That could also cause a drop in the voltage. Hopefully I'm pointing you in the right direction and you can get it all figured out, good luck bro, anymore questions just throw them my way and I'll see what I can do to help you!
 
Yeah Im going to remove the alternator tomorrow and I will let you know whats going on>
I will check the belts before I remove it. I know its not slipping but maybe to tight?
I will find out tomorrow. Thanks alot man I will update you tomorrow :thumb:
Yeah my cars battery voltage is at 11.8 still and not going up. Its been
running for like 15mins so alternator time
also what about my base fuel pressure while idling. It should be 42.5 correct?
Its at 35 so I might want to fix that tomorrow too LOL
 
Yeah that would be my guess at the moment, I'll check tomorrow and see if I can help you out some more. Hopefully we can get it figured out, can't stand when something goes wrong with my car and I can't find out what it is. Alright well it's 10:30 over here in Germany, and I'm tired so I'm bout to hit the sack, just keep me updated and I'll help you if I can, good luck again bro
 
I had a very similar issue with my 97 gs-t. I just bought it in Nov. and i was cleanin out the engine bay and right after i pulled the battery and all that to clean the car would be cold dead. All i had to do was re-adjust the positive wiring and its been A-OK since. i was about to buy a battery cause i have no clue on the age of this but i'm glad i didn't. i think its just a minor wiring issue.
 
Any update with the problem bro? Did that alternator work out for you? Hopefully all the probems went away, just send me a message and let me know or write one back in here
 
Okay update. I was out late last night so I didnt get started on the alternator until 4:30 this afternoon.
It was about 15 degrees outside so my hands and toes were completely numb.
I got the alternator off. What a PITA holy crap. I had to take my Tial wastgate and dumptube off and disconnect my lower intercooler piping and move it around to get it out. So after 2 hours of choice words, taking chunks out of my hand bec. of no room, discovering an oil leak that I thought I had, and struggling to get the alternator out the bottom of the car its done. The prob. is autozone closes at 6. So tomorrow I get off work at 5 and I will be going there and getting a new one then installing it when I get home. So I will def. update when I get home tomorrow and put it on :thumb:
 
Ok update sorry havent been on in a couple of days.
Trying to just forget about my car LOL I have a new problem now and its blowing my mind.
Ok so we got the new alternator on and everything back together right.
So my car now idles at 14.4 volts whicj is amazing because I never even saw 14 volts before.
So I pull out onto the street and step on the gas and as soon as I get to 2,000 rpms my car sputters and iif you step on the gas its like nothing happens then if I take my foot totally of the gas my car stalls out and I have to start it again. It idles fine though. I have no idea whats going on. Ppl have been saying to load my tune back in the car ### I have DSMLink but the chip came programmed with my injectors so it should be fine right? I am so confused and fed up with my car its crazy. Someone please help me know. Others have suggested a ground wire is going crazy. Could that be it? My car was fine before we changed out the alternator :notgood:
 
I thought the alternator was trying to fix the original problem with your car (it wouldn't start and the battery kept dying over night.) Now you got your car starting and everything, so isn't that a little better? Alright now if you're stuttering I would check your tune, plugs & wires. Make sure no wires are frayed, your plugs are gapped correctly and the right ones BPR6's, some people have success with the 7's. Keep us updated on how things are going and we'll keep throwing out ideas to try and help you fix your problems.

EDIT: If it started to stutter at 2,000 then it sounds like it starts stuttering under boost, is that the case? Been seeing a lot of threads like this, let me see if I can find a thread where it was fixed and it might help you out

Couple of suggestions on the other thread: Base Timing, Venting, Boost Leak, Plugs & Wires
I'd probably start with the timing, check your plugs/wires, check for boost leaks then we'll go from there.
 
ok i maybe new at this.. but have a tow trucker for 8 yrs now and have had similar issues with this problem ... honestly this is what i would do..
for a few dollars you can put what they call a battery "disconnect' on the pos(+) terminal post of the battery .. which in turn will do just that ..
to me it sounds like you have a short somewhere ... had the EXACT same issues ... car would run fine and then sit for a few hours and be completely dead. my problem ended up being the pos(+) cable had just rubbed a small spot the the insulation from normal bounce and hop of driving, and was making contact with metal, .... drove me completely crazy and broke at the same time... replaced all those things also .. batt, alt, fuses, .... and to beat the band all this time it was a $12 cable that made it all better.. if you dont have the patience to do all that ... just put a discconect on it ... i live in michigan, so as long as the batt is charged ... even in the coldest temps it should still be charged in the a.m.

once started.. let it run for a bit.. but the whole time it could just be electrical drain ... runs fine at idle... with foot on gas? could be that you are mantaining a voltage above the minimum requirement and the when you release it drops too low and bing "shut down". it takes a certain amount of voltage to operate at all. also might of fried wired from the old alt. overcharging on it's way out.

all in all ... cheapest route install a batt disconnect... best route ... send her to an auto electrical shop ... not a dealer of your local fixit shop.. auto electric shop .. they'll trap down a short ... ANYWHERE on your ride.. sorry so long of a reply.. hope it helps
 
Ok I think I found my problem :thumb:
I dont have problems with the battery dying anymore. My problem Is not building boost and sputtering and stalling out while trying to drive. Could a major boost leak cause this? I just went out and for some reason looked at my LICP that I had to disconnect to put the alternator in, well my dad said he tightened it up but I just looked and I can see the bead locks on the one pipe and the silicone coupler is bending out OMG so when I try to drive im not getting boost because of that leak so no air plus all that fuel equals sputter and stall out correct? Someone chime in here and let me know.
Im so excited I will fix it tomorrow Im getting ready to go out :thumb:
 
Yes a boost leak could cause those symptoms, hopefully that'll be your problem, make a tester to make sure that that's your only leak, it'll kill two birds with one stone, hopefully your problem and any other potential problems. Good luck bro glad to hear things are getting better
 
UPDATE:
My car runs :thumb:
It was my LICP that was loose.
My car has no problems at all anymore except a major oil leak that I have to
fix now and put a cat on my car because E-Check hates me ROFL
So this thread is resolved and it was my alternator so for anyone that ever
has this problem go get your alternator tested.
Thank you Twistaye and BIGMIXX for all your guys help :thumb:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top