[RESOLVED] 1g in a 2g Throttle Body vacuum lines

[jake247]

Does anyone know/diagram preferably how to connect the vac hoses to a 1g throttle body in a 2g swap? I've got stock engine management so i'm keeping egr and evap can etc.

I don't know which to use P/E/A/A1 to which components.


Thanks

 

[turbosax2]

RREs  Eclipse 2G Turbo 1G Throttle Body Swap

 

[jake247]

RREs Eclipse 2G Turbo 1G Throttle Body Swap

oh that's beautiful. I saw something alluding to that when I was searching but the link was broken.

do you know where I can find an emissions diagram? The one on my hood is gone, and the one I see all over the place is on here is small and too blurry for me to read.

 

[snowborder714]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.html

That's the best you're going to get. Sadly...

 

[jake247]

alright, thanks anyway. I had already found that, blew it up to a full page size and printed it out and couldn't read it.

thanks.

as far as I'm concerned, this is resolved.

(though, it'd be nice to have a "post icons" icon that was for 6bolt swaps, but that's a different question.)

 

[turbosax2]

Here's a bigger picture. If you still need it bigger let me know.

 

[generalu]

I need some help. I noticed when I took my 2g TB off, only the A and E lines were being used, there was no P line on the throttle body (it looked closed off and there was no line going to it). Essentially there were only 2 lines to my 2g TB. The 1g TB has 4 inlets A2 (angled), A1, E, P. According to RRE's page, it says to "cap off the E line as well as the angled line (marked A1 or something). Then with a T, split the P line to go to where P and E used to go. In effect drive the E line, (EGR) with the source from P." Can someone clarify:
- Am I supposed to cap off E?
- How do I split the P line when it never existed in the first place?

Is the 99 2g TB different from other 2b TB's?
Car idle's higher at cold start... hovers at 1800rpm till she warms up, then down to about 700rpm. Also my DSMLink rpm settings won't change the idling rpm - I figure it's because one of my vacuum lines aren't plugged in correctly.

Some help appreciated.

 

[snowborder714]

Cap off the E nipple.
Cap off the A1 (angled) nipple.
Have a line coming off the P nipple and into a tee. One side of the tee should go to the right nipple on the EGR solenoid. The other side should go to another tee. One side of that tee should go to the right nipple on the Evaporative emission (EVAP) purge solenoid. The other side should go to the bottom nipple of the purge control valve. (To locate this nipples and solenoids, use the above diagram posted by Eric.) And then just plug the vacuum line that used to go to your A port back into the A port.

 

[romeen]

The '98-99 TB's only have 2 vacuum ports unlike the other 2G's which have 3. See this thread for pics of how to do it:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...-1g-tb-2g-but-my-tb-only-has-2-vac-ports.html

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

just wanted to contribute some better pics, and also check to see that i properly routed the vacuum lines correctly... There were never any clear pics for early 2gs with 1g swap with lines all in tact, so hope this helps others in the future..

per RRE's directions..

One at a time, remove the old short vacuum lines and replace them with longer ones.

If you are still running with your EGR, the following will be necessary for proper EGR
It's simple, cap off the E line as well as the angled line (marked A1 or something). Then with a T, split the P line to go to where P and E used to go.

In effect drive the E line, (EGR) with the source from P.

The problem is that the 1G EGR and the 2G EGR are sourced differently inside the throttle body. The 2G EGR has vacuum at idle but the 1G does not.

The angled port is actually A2

per their directions everything is straight forward, but they fail to tell you where that last A1 port is suppose to go? Well there was only 1 other port open so it was process of elimination, and hope everything is correct.

Been running like this for 2 weeks now with no ill effects, at least that I notice.

 

[infoworkz]

I performed a 1G throttlebody swap on my 2G. The TPS is set correctly, showing 0% at idle. When the acceleration pedal is all the way to the floor, the datalogger shows that the throttle position is at 80%. I had a friend press the accelerator pedal while I observed the throttle pulley and plate. It appears it is only opening 80%. I happened to observe that he throttlebody cable pulleys are slightly different between the 1G & 2G. The 1G is round and the 2G pulley is more oblong. Am I missing something? Do I need to move the 2G throttlebody pulley to the 1G Throttlebody to obtain 100% WOT?

There is little to no slack in the throttle cable, so adjusting the cable to take up slack does not appear to be an option. If I were to adjust it any, it would simply raise the RPM. Nothing is under the pedal to prevent it from going further. Am I the only 2G owner that has had this problem? It looks like the pulleys and throttle cable length are different between the 1G and 2G cars to cause such an issue. The car runs great....it just won't achieve 100% WOT.

 

[snowborder714]

Have you tried adjusting the throttle cable bracket that is bolted to the intake manifold?

And are you sure there's nothing under the pedal when pressing it down, like a floor mat?

 

[DSMnOOb00]

thanks for the info

 

[doubled07]

Old thread rebirth here but does anyone know off the top of their head which throttle body nipple is vacuum?