Ok, so this is a way that I figured out how to fix broken fuel tank sender studs on the 1g awd. Its almost the same as the other article found here http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/256249-replacing-broken-fuel-pump-studs.html but there are a couple different steps; a little more time consuming, but not by much. In all, I think its a better, and less doubtful route to take (the JB weld part didnt look too appealing to me). Here we go:
Parts needed
Chisel
Perferably a rubber mallot or plastic headed hammer to prevent sparks
Drill
1/8 and 3/16 drill bits
6mmX1.00 tap and the handle that goes with it
Magnet
Small file or sandpaper
6mmX1.00 stainless steel bolt, nut and small washer
Epoxy
5mmX.8 die for the original studs
Antiseize
TIME- about 2 hours (inlcudes emptying out trunk and putting everything back)
Just like in the other article, put a cap over the fuel line and take the sending unit out of the tank and use the plastic cap from a grease can or a peanut can, or whatever you can find to fit over the hole and blow away any dirt away from the opening. I didnt drain my tank because I didnt want to but if you feel you must do so to feel safer, then drain it. But its really not necessary.
Here is now where the steps change; instead of drilling through the stud and the tank, just take a chisel or screwdriver and chisel away at the outer flange to remove the whole stud and surrounding surface. Mine is pretty rusted as you can see.
Find the center of where the new bolt will go by either eyeing it up really good or you can put the sender back on then use a center punch to make your mark for drilling. I first used a 1/8 drill bit then went to a 3/16 bit. I didnt worry too much about metal shavings because I would be cleaning them up at the end anyways.
Take a 6mmX1.00 tap and tap out the hole you just drilled. Its gonna need a little finagling to get the tap started since the hole is a tiny bit smaller than the tap, but it will work just fine nonetheless.
I used a broken file to deburr the inside of the tank, you can use sandpaper if you wish to.
I then used a magnet to pick up all the shavings and whatever other rust particles that fell into the tank; you need to clean the magnet pretty often to prevent the metal from falling off again back into the tank.
Now, mix up some 5 minute epoxy and put some on the bottom of the bolt head and carefully screw it up into the hole you just tapped out (from the inside of course), snug it up a little so it has a nice seal to the inside of the tank. Make some more epoxy and put around the top of the tank around the bolt and use a small washer and nut and tighten everything nice and tight. No need to be a muscle man, but just make it tight.
Although the picture doesnt show it well enough (didnt feel like dropping my phone in the gas tank), the height of the nut and washer are still below the surface of the sealing flange for the sender gasket, just like the original stud plate; so you'll still get a great seal for the gasket. You did get a new gasket, right?
Then I grabbed a 5mmX.8 die and just cleaned up the rest of the studs and applied antiseize to all six studs.
I had to very slightly bore out the sender for the new stud to go through, but not much. Put the gasket on the sender and install sender onto tank. Tighten all the nuts using an across tightening pattern. I applied antiseize to the tops of the nuts and on the fuel line flare nut as well to prevent future seizing/breaking.
Thats it for that, I hope this helps you all. I plan to do this to the rest of the studs regardless if they break or not because I like the idea of a beefier stud than a little bi*** one. Enjoy!
Parts needed
Chisel
Perferably a rubber mallot or plastic headed hammer to prevent sparks
Drill
1/8 and 3/16 drill bits
6mmX1.00 tap and the handle that goes with it
Magnet
Small file or sandpaper
6mmX1.00 stainless steel bolt, nut and small washer
Epoxy
5mmX.8 die for the original studs
Antiseize
TIME- about 2 hours (inlcudes emptying out trunk and putting everything back)
Just like in the other article, put a cap over the fuel line and take the sending unit out of the tank and use the plastic cap from a grease can or a peanut can, or whatever you can find to fit over the hole and blow away any dirt away from the opening. I didnt drain my tank because I didnt want to but if you feel you must do so to feel safer, then drain it. But its really not necessary.
Here is now where the steps change; instead of drilling through the stud and the tank, just take a chisel or screwdriver and chisel away at the outer flange to remove the whole stud and surrounding surface. Mine is pretty rusted as you can see.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Find the center of where the new bolt will go by either eyeing it up really good or you can put the sender back on then use a center punch to make your mark for drilling. I first used a 1/8 drill bit then went to a 3/16 bit. I didnt worry too much about metal shavings because I would be cleaning them up at the end anyways.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Take a 6mmX1.00 tap and tap out the hole you just drilled. Its gonna need a little finagling to get the tap started since the hole is a tiny bit smaller than the tap, but it will work just fine nonetheless.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I used a broken file to deburr the inside of the tank, you can use sandpaper if you wish to.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I then used a magnet to pick up all the shavings and whatever other rust particles that fell into the tank; you need to clean the magnet pretty often to prevent the metal from falling off again back into the tank.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now, mix up some 5 minute epoxy and put some on the bottom of the bolt head and carefully screw it up into the hole you just tapped out (from the inside of course), snug it up a little so it has a nice seal to the inside of the tank. Make some more epoxy and put around the top of the tank around the bolt and use a small washer and nut and tighten everything nice and tight. No need to be a muscle man, but just make it tight.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Although the picture doesnt show it well enough (didnt feel like dropping my phone in the gas tank), the height of the nut and washer are still below the surface of the sealing flange for the sender gasket, just like the original stud plate; so you'll still get a great seal for the gasket. You did get a new gasket, right?
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Then I grabbed a 5mmX.8 die and just cleaned up the rest of the studs and applied antiseize to all six studs.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I had to very slightly bore out the sender for the new stud to go through, but not much. Put the gasket on the sender and install sender onto tank. Tighten all the nuts using an across tightening pattern. I applied antiseize to the tops of the nuts and on the fuel line flare nut as well to prevent future seizing/breaking.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Thats it for that, I hope this helps you all. I plan to do this to the rest of the studs regardless if they break or not because I like the idea of a beefier stud than a little bi*** one. Enjoy!
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